Bobby Kinstle

Did you ever solve the problem?

mavspire

Yes actually. I ended up purchasing a proper line-output converter (LC2i) and splicing in to a different set up of cables. I wasn't able to figure out exactly what was wrong with my previous setup other than to suppose that the signal I'd tapped into plus the built-in line output converted on the amp were just not producing enough voltage signal. I did have the input sensitivity cranked but it would still keep cutting out.

Also...i returned the amp/sub combo and switched to a single ported 10" Alpine Type-S along with an MRP-500 amp.

I absolutely love the setup and I highly recommend a dedicated amp/sub combo over simply replacing the existing b&o sub, nothing will ever compare.

dashotgun

fwiw I added a pioneer sub in a box PIONEER TSSWX2502 10-Inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure Sub Woofer from amazon onsale for 109 and a
Pioneer GM-D8601 Class D Mono Amplifier with Wired Bass Boost Remote for 134 and had it installed in part because I did not really want to install it and in part because it is a lease. I know good sound I have audiophile quality home system. For the small investment this really rounds out the system the B&O mids and highs are not bad it was the bottom end that was missing this is an inexpensive solution

motorsport_mike

These look pretty good and are clearly affordable. I am wondering how and where you have the amp and sub mounted up? I am assuming you disconnected the factory amp and sub? I am interested in preserving trunk space if possible. Any chance you can post up a few pics? Thanks.

dashotgun

the sub just sits in the back
it faces downward. It takes up a little but not much room. The amp was installed in the drivers side trunk cubby on top of the factory amp. It is a sub amp od the factory amp drives the other speakers and sub amp drives the sub with a low crossover. The factory sub remains in position but is not driven any more. I am leasing the car and wanted an easy removal for when I turn in the car. the place that installed it turned it with the base boost all the way up which for my taste classical jazz and rock is to much base ymmv. I have it set flat. As a base test I played Bach toccata and fugue in D minor with a a huge church organ live recording it is a wonderful test of base as those pipe organs go very very low. It passed with flying colors. The installation was great and cost more then the equipment but if your handy I suppose you could diy. I will post some pictures later

motorsport_mike

Hmmm... I don't listen to much classic jazz. I am more interested in bumping some 90's hip hop, haha.
I don't need anything crazy, and I'm leasing also... But I would definitely like some help in the bass department. I'm not sure if this is the best option for me.

dashotgun

I am not posting to sell it I have the boost turned down as I don't listen to that type of music prefer a more balanced accurate sound however with it up the rear of the car shakes like a good hip hop system for my tastes it is overpowering in bass. The trouble with add on systems is everyone's needs and wants and ability to pay is different and there is no steady source of auditioning a system so word of mouth is all you have to go by which is inaccurate to say the least. This system fits my needs and installed all up was less then 700 including the equipment I am very happy with it ymmv

K111SAX

Hi

Just wanted to know where did you get the power and ground connections for you lc2i?

Ash

dashotgun

I was told that most sub amplifiers that have low level output are not sufficent hence the need for an aftermarket converter. The car amp is in the trunk cubby as is the battery this makes installation a lot easier due to shorter cable runs and less panels that need to be removed

mavspire

I'm piggybacking (with separate smaller gauge cables) power, ground and remote-on for the lc2i from the amp itself.