SportBiker

Been doing a ton of research and my head's spinning. I know I have the "JKS MNL" transmission option code on my '10 S4 from the trunk label. Its ready for the DSG ATF change and I feel quite confident doing it but wanted to post up some questions in case someone's been down this road and just not posted yet. Links I missed MOST welcome.

It looks like the latest ATF is G060162A2 (haven't called dealer yet), but there is no reference on Pentosin's site for that one. I called a guy at Pentosin and now feel confused. Basically I was thinking I'd use their DCT FFL2 fluid but when I mentioned the G06 fluid (above) he indicated that was a totally different fluid that wouldn't be used in the same compartment.

I get that there's a gear oil chamber and an ATF one. But I *thought* both the G06 and FFL2 were both ATF. Am I wrong? Is there an option anyone's used outside the $40/L G06 from the dealer? And how much is really needed? I've seen reference to 6L, but DeckSurgeon (audizine) suggests 7L.

Lastly, I've seen quite a few references to a special tool, which Blauparts shows as either the basic pump or this suction contraption. Anyone know which applies for us? With the side fill on the pan I assume a basic pump will suffice but if I have to build my own suction contraption I will.

I do not plan to do the filter change and will hope the aftermarket crowd catches up before the next change.

m444

I would think it uses two different fluids, one gear oil, the other ATF.

Here is some info on the DSG; http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/356141-Details-about-the-Seven-speed-dual-clutch-gearbox-0B5-S-tronic-(DL501)

You can get a subscription the 2010 or 2011 Audi S4 here on all data DYI; http://www.alldatadiy.com/

""Gearbox oil system
ATF oil system
The 0B5 gearbox has two separate oil systems. The first oil system accommodates the dual clutch, the mechatronic syste m and the oil supply.
These components use an ATF developed specially for the B5 gearbox.
This ATF provides rapid response of the shift and clutch control mechanisms even at low temperatures, and serves to lubricate and cool the dual clutch.

A basic requirement for the ATF is that it allows the dual clutch to be controlled in a precise fashion.

Gear oil system
The second oil system incorporates the manual gearbox, the transfer case (centre differential) and the front axle drive.

Lubrication is by means of a hypoid gear oil with a special oil additive for the centre differential. By separating these oil chambers, it has been
possible to design the individual component parts of the gearbox optimally. Thus, it was not necessary to make any compromises due to conflicting demands on the lubricant.""

SportBiker

Yes, I knew about the two different fluids required (noted in OP). The regular maint ONLY calls for changing the ATF, not the gear oil. The link is interesting but I'd far prefer to invest in a Repair Manual; just wish Benltey would release one for the B8. My plan is to take my VIN and call the dealer for an ATF spec, either the G05 or G06 and go from there.

Its obvious from the number of views and lack of response that either no one has done this or its so dead simple its not worth responding. I'm desperately hoping for the latter, since I'm not planning for a complex change and the wife will be pissed if I'm wrong since she'll be out her car for a few days

SportBiker

Update, mostly for reference by others. My JKS MNL transmission option translated to ATF G 052 529 A2. This does NOT meet the spec noted by Blauparts with G 052 182 A2, obviously. I've also found that Pentosin and Ravenol don't appear to have corollary fluids. Luckily, Liqui Moly appears to and its their "dual clutch transmission oil 8100", part #3640. At $20/L, that's a huge savings over dealer price ($40-$60/L).

Will give my Napa guy a shot at sourcing it otherwise I've found only one other online retailer for it right now.

Hope the actual change is far simpler than identifying what to put in!

red1bw

Did you do this yet, as I will be tackling this shortly? I have several questions if you have:
1. Where did you source the ATF from that you used?
2. Did you need new washer at drain plug (part #)?
3. Did you end up changing the DSG filter / seals (part #'s)?
4. Anything noteworthy, or more difficult than expected?
Thanks

Carbines

Definitely interested in hearing an update as well.

SportBiker

My bad, guys, thanks for refreshing this thread to remind me to follow-up. I'm at work and will give you the abridged version now. I have pics and I'll try to update over the holiday weekend with those. Its the least I can do for the community given all the brand-specific info I've gleaned.

Nutshell:

• Purchase tranny fluid (online) and drain washer (from dealer).
• Let car cool and get it up high enough to get under it SAFELY (you are at your OWN risk). Car MUST be level, use a torpedo level on tranny pan bottom.
• Take off SIDE fill plug, this makes the draining go a lot faster plus you can be sure you can fill the tranny once you've drained it. Would be a shame to discover you can't get the fill plug off AFTER you've drained it
• Open drain plug on bottom of tranny pan (after taking off the plastic shielding, of course).
• Once drained, put on new washer and install drain plug. NOTE: I have NOT changed the washer after two tranny fluid changes and no ill effects. On the down-low I'm told the dealer service techs never change them. ***You're at your own risk***
• Run fill funnel and tubing from somewhere high up down to side fill hole on pan. I routed the tube down the driver's side of the engine bay but the exhaust is right there and there's high chance of melting you tube. Somebody needs to find a better route.
• Fill with fluid until comes out a bit through that same fill hole. IIRC it was about 5L.
• Barely put on the side fill plug (no washer on this one, so no need to change one).
• Setup your VAGCOM and start the car. Get to VAGCOM screen for tranny fluid temp and watch for usual 38-40C level. On VCDS Release 12.12.3 here are the menus: Select Control Module->02 - Automatic Transmission-> Advanced Measuring Values->Transmission fluid temperature (checkbox). The values are alphabetical.
• While waiting for warmup, go slowly up and down the gears (auto only, ignore manual gears). I stopped at about 35 because the temp rises VERY quickly at this point.
• Dive under car, open side fill plug, let whatever drain off and if nothing does, add fluid until it does.

If you had nothing come out in that last step, you will likely have to let the car cool off a bit (with the fill plug in place!) and have another go. What you're after is getting to that 38-40C temp and have some fluid come out of that fill hole so you know its at the right level. Once its done running, you need to get that fill plug back on before getting much over the 40C temp.

This tranny did NOT have the snorkel system many other Audi's have. I'd already investing in the DIY snorkel fill system so I'll save you the effort by saying that's not needed. But be sure you have the side fill hole on your tranny because apparently there were several differently types of DSG on the B8s.

Also, with the extensive reading I did I had an expectation of the fluid temp to be in a particular spot on the VAGCOM software, but it wasn't. I found it but can't recall offhand where it was. I'll add that this weekend hopefully.

I bought 7L because I'm paranoid. I did use slightly more than 5L and have very little waste (less than 1/4 cup).

It was more straightforward than I expected. If you've done a tranny fluid change on another vehicle this shouldn't be tough other than having to fill under the car.

I'll do a search right now to see if I can quickly find who I bought it from online. If you don't see an update in an hour you'll have to be patient since I won't get back to this until tomorrow at least.

SportBiker

Can't figure out how to Edit my previous post :|

And I feel ashamed as an IT guy to not have linked the vendor way back up there. RMEuropean is the ONLY source I could find. Checked Autozone, Advance, Napa. Even the dealer was going to have to order it.

One other thing. As others have noted with their ATF fluid changes, the car definitely shifts more smoothly. And I followed the Audi requirements exactly which means I did NOT change the filter. I'll continue to keep an eye out for a Service Bulletin changing their mind but for now its not required.

I lied. One other thing. I found a way to drain the gear fluid on the tranny too, which was surprising given past comments about earlier trannies. No spec to change it but now I know its possible for me to do.

red1bw

Thanks for the update.

red1bw

Sportbiker / others;
Where in literature / writing did you find that ATF G 052 529 A2 is the correct fluid for the 7 speed DSG OB5A(MNL)?