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To those who did the Pioneer sub swap

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Old 06-02-2014, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Difuser
The rear parcel shelf has a molded cover along with 2 grilles that dress out the interior.

If you look in the original thread for the swap you can see their removal. All in all I did my swap in about 1 hour. My wife noticed the diff when we bought her A5 that had the B&O and hers did not have the bass response mine does.
This is embarrassing ... I just reread the other thread know it's entirety and cannot find a completed picture of the top view either before or after the installation.

Additionally, still hoping someone will answer my question about how this is drilled in ... to the metal? Plastic? Usage of a baffle?
Old 06-02-2014, 04:42 PM
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https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...81&postcount=1

This post has the pics for the most part. The speaker grille is in the process of being pried up. further down you will see how low the woofer sits down under the parcel cover.
i used a self stick gasket material for the woofer basket and located 2 of the stock holes and not additional holes drilled. I can return to stock later if needed.
Old 06-02-2014, 05:13 PM
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https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...2822346&page=2

There's a few pics from Bobby's original Pioneer installed.

Basically the plastic mount that holds the B&O sub is not used. You can either screw the new sub down to the deck directly, or use an MDF spacer (there's a few inches of spare room under that rear parcel shelf)

3 holes in the Audi deck. The Pioneer didn't match them so I drilled 3 new holes into it's plastic ring/metal neck. Then used some 1 1/4" bolts to hold it down.

The nice thing about this mod is the car looks 100% stock inside. You can't see the dynamat, etc.... You do have the butt of the sub hanging down into the trunk... What's also nice about this install is it's 100% reversible if you want to go back to factory (well, the dynamt will remain....)

My 2 week review: this is the amount of bass that the B&O SHOULD have from the factory. It's not competition bass that will rattle your world, but it's 100% improved.
Old 06-02-2014, 07:19 PM
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Like the others said, the subwoofer sits quite a distance below the parcel shelf mainly because the factory sub was magnet up. There's a good 3" between the grille and the metal deck. Even after adding the layers of dynamat to fill in the space, the top of the woofer ring is at least 1.5" below the factory grille. From the top it looks 100% stock. You can't see the dynamat or any of of the subwoofer. Obviously it hangs down into the trunk a bit but the pioneer sub has some nice cosmetic plastic on the back side that makes it blend in nicely especially if you mount the terminals forward. Most people think it's stock until I tell them.

Sorry I didn't take more pictures. I was cramped, sweaty, it was dark, and eager to play with my speaker. I have a nice wide angle lens, but the flash made it too bulky and hard to take pictures in there.

I drilled four new holes in the deck using the new woofer as a drill template and then screwed in self tapping sheet metal screws. I trimmed off the excess with my dremel tool. Note the polarity is reversed since the new woofer fires up instead of down.
Old 06-02-2014, 08:31 PM
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Thank you guys! The last three posts were exactly what I needed in order to pull the trigger! New ID woofer is on the way!

The main concern I had was having enough vertical clearance to allow for peak to peak excursion (xmax). This woofer has 17mm ~= 0.67" but if there is roughly 1.5" of gap, then no issues!

Thanks guys!
Old 06-03-2014, 07:33 PM
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If the woofer cone ever touches the grille, it's seriously broken.

This page has some good pictures:/

Last edited by Bobby Kinstle; 06-03-2014 at 07:36 PM.
Old 06-03-2014, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobby Kinstle
If the woofer cone ever touches the grille, it's seriously broken.
Please do elaborate!

What I fear is people saying the mounting diameter of the stock sub is less than most aftermarket ones, meaning a mounting ring (baffle) is required. Further complicating this is that there is only 1.5" of space to work with. So if I have xmax of .67" + recommended baffle of 1-1.5", I'll have a major interference.
Old 06-03-2014, 08:35 PM
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No no no, there's 1.5" AFTER the new sub goes in. So yea if the cone touches that, it's blown out completely.
Old 06-03-2014, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobby Kinstle
No no no, there's 1.5" AFTER the new sub goes in. So yea if the cone touches that, it's blown out completely.
But are you assuming that the sub mounts directly to the metal (flush)? Or are you considering a mounting baffle as well? If so, what size of thickness?
Old 06-03-2014, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Taxmaster
But are you assuming that the sub mounts directly to the metal (flush)? Or are you considering a mounting baffle as well? If so, what size of thickness?
I was the first person to install the Pioneer sub so I'm not assuming anything. The frame gets stuck in the deck hole and you cant go in further, so folks use a ring to support it better. You cannot mount flush without cutting metal. I used three layers of dynamat which stacks up to about 3/8". There is HUGE room above the top of the sub to the fabric of the parcel shelf cover. There is absolutely no chance the sub will ever rub against it even at maximum excursion.

I just measured my old B&O sub right now and its 2.5" thick. The woofer bezel and spacer comes to about 1" which leaves you with 1.5" left. Your max excursion is less than half of that.


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