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2001 S4 Problems 124,000

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Old 06-20-2014, 04:53 PM   #1
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Default 2001 S4 Problems 124,000

I am having a couple issues with my 2001 Audi S4

Just replaced the cat convertors and all four O2 sensors.
I am getting the following codes:

P1131 - bank1 sensor1 - internal resistance is too high
P1113 - bank2 sensor1 - internal resistance is too high

what causes these codes? I did not use Bosch sensors but half price ones.
I would think they would work. Code comes on everyday.

When I drive and reach a certain speed the ABS and that rotation lights come on and the car drives funny. I think these two issues are related somehow.

Last edited by LoPoVe; 06-20-2014 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:44 PM   #2
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Used the APWI from rockauto I think I am sending these back and going to use the bosch ones. Changed the MAF sensor today.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:06 PM   #3
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Put Bosche O2 sensors in the upstream and erased all the codes with my scan tool. I test drove the car for 20 minutes and no codes came back. I hope it was those ****ty O2 sensors that were messing everything up! Will post more in the next couple days.
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Old 07-16-2014, 06:43 AM   #4
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Now I have codes P1127 and P1129, both banks running rich.

Also car is having big problems starting. It won't start this morning. It starts up and then dies right away.

Anyone know what is causing this?

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Old 07-16-2014, 05:15 PM   #5
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The secondary O2 sensors are also able to affect the reported AFR. If they are reading incorrectly that might be causing the ECU to run rich.

Possibly try disconnecting the secondary o2 sensors, clear the codes and see what happens. You'll probably throw a cat efficiency fault code, but it might give you another data point for what might be affecting things.
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:08 PM   #6
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Hey thanks for the advice......I am giving up and taking it to the stealership tomorrow......it won't start at all anymore.......$116 for diagnostics.....what a rip off but maybe they will tell me exactly what is wrong....
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Old 07-18-2014, 12:36 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoPoVe View Post
Also car is having big problems starting. It won't start this morning. It starts up and then dies right away.

Anyone know what is causing this?
Sounds like classic immobiliser to me - do you have a flashing yellow symbol that looks like a 'key in the back of a car' flashing in the Tacho when it starts and dies?

If so it's the immobiliser.

In 2001 the immobiliser will be incorporated into the dash cluster.
Transponder in the key is energised by a coil in the black plastic ring around the ignition barrel. Only fix for your car I can think of is to unplug and plug-in the coil to ensure it is working correctly. Also, make sure key is fully home in ignition barrel and the housing of the key is as close as possible to the plastic ring around the barrel.
Turn ignition on and wait for yellow key/car symbol in Tacho to disappear before starting.
If your car main battery is a bit suspect, this can affect the immobiliser. I had issues both on my A4 and S8, which were a little bit frustrating until in both cases the battery died a short while later.

(do not confuse the transponder with the remote central locking - completely different things on these cars and is not affected by low batteries in the remote)
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Old 07-19-2014, 03:33 PM   #8
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Thanks I have a new battery in the car....took it to the dealership they said that the spark plugs were fouled and there is carbon buildup in the engine.
The rape has begun $200 to look the car over and $525 to change the spark plugs and clean the carbon, i was told $400 of this is labor....also told I have other issues with the suspension and clutch and tons of DTC failure codes ughhhhhhhhhhhh
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Old 07-19-2014, 03:34 PM   #9
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Good guess no I do not have this flashing light......no battery in the key


Quote:
Originally Posted by twentysevenlitres View Post
Sounds like classic immobiliser to me - do you have a flashing yellow symbol that looks like a 'key in the back of a car' flashing in the Tacho when it starts and dies?

If so it's the immobiliser.

In 2001 the immobiliser will be incorporated into the dash cluster.
Transponder in the key is energised by a coil in the black plastic ring around the ignition barrel. Only fix for your car I can think of is to unplug and plug-in the coil to ensure it is working correctly. Also, make sure key is fully home in ignition barrel and the housing of the key is as close as possible to the plastic ring around the barrel.
Turn ignition on and wait for yellow key/car symbol in Tacho to disappear before starting.
If your car main battery is a bit suspect, this can affect the immobiliser. I had issues both on my A4 and S8, which were a little bit frustrating until in both cases the battery died a short while later.

(do not confuse the transponder with the remote central locking - completely different things on these cars and is not affected by low batteries in the remote)
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Old 07-21-2014, 06:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twentysevenlitres View Post
Sounds like classic immobiliser to me - do you have a flashing yellow symbol that looks like a 'key in the back of a car' flashing in the Tacho when it starts and dies?

If so it's the immobiliser.

In 2001 the immobiliser will be incorporated into the dash cluster.
Transponder in the key is energised by a coil in the black plastic ring around the ignition barrel. Only fix for your car I can think of is to unplug and plug-in the coil to ensure it is working correctly. Also, make sure key is fully home in ignition barrel and the housing of the key is as close as possible to the plastic ring around the barrel.
Turn ignition on and wait for yellow key/car symbol in Tacho to disappear before starting.
If your car main battery is a bit suspect, this can affect the immobiliser. I had issues both on my A4 and S8, which were a little bit frustrating until in both cases the battery died a short while later.

(do not confuse the transponder with the remote central locking - completely different things on these cars and is not affected by low batteries in the remote)
No US model B5 S4 had the immobilizer functional.
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Old 07-28-2014, 11:13 AM   #11
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Hey I tried this, disconnected the downstream sensors and I got codes

P1122, P1118 - bank1/2 sensor 2 open circuit and P1114,P1140 Bank1/2 sensor 2 internal resistance is too high. I expected the first codes but not the second two.

The running rich codes still came on right away. I want to say the car ran better when I disconnected the downstream sensors. I did not see the code for the MAF - internal resistance too high P0103 but it usually takes a couple days to come on.

I think there is a vacuum leak (or pressure leak this system is pressurized?) that is causing this and I do not know if there is something else like the fuel injectors contributing. I sometimes smell a burn smell in the car.

Appointment tomorrow with the stealership. I am telling them to either inspect my car or give me all my money back and I will pay for the spark plugs they put in. I had it with them they are supposed to be audi experts they are crap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyboy View Post
The secondary O2 sensors are also able to affect the reported AFR. If they are reading incorrectly that might be causing the ECU to run rich.

Possibly try disconnecting the secondary o2 sensors, clear the codes and see what happens. You'll probably throw a cat efficiency fault code, but it might give you another data point for what might be affecting things.
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Old 07-28-2014, 11:24 AM   #12
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Here area the codes that the stealership (from my first visit) had on the work order:

P1454 - exhaust gas temp sensor 1 short to ground
P1557 - charge pressure control positive deviation
P0103 - mass or air volume flow a circuit high
P1127 - bank1 too rich long term
P1129 - bank1 too rich long term
P0117 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) circuit low input

Crap!

Still love my S4 but will be relieved when I can get it working.

Has this crap happened to anyone else?
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Old 07-28-2014, 06:09 PM   #13
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You'd be better off posting on Quattroworld (QW) or Audizine (AZ). Those forums are much more active with the B5 S4 owners. Some of the members at AZ are a bit childish, so don't be surprised, but there are also some knowledgeable people who can give you suggestions.
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:50 AM   #14
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I will start posting in there.

So the dealer says my computer is chipped, and I need a new computer for $1,600 of course. They suck I am pissed I wasted money on them.

any advice? Why cat they just reprogram this computer?

Quote:
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You'd be better off posting on Quattroworld (QW) or Audizine (AZ). Those forums are much more active with the B5 S4 owners. Some of the members at AZ are a bit childish, so don't be surprised, but there are also some knowledgeable people who can give you suggestions.
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Old 07-29-2014, 06:04 PM   #15
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If it has been chipped there's an additional board that is soldered onto the ECU which would complicate reflashing the tune, realistically though I doubt there's any dealership that would even know how to flash a stock ECU.

You can buy a used ECU for around $100-150 if you needed to try that, but I doubt very very much that it is your ECU causing the problems. Do you know if it is chipped?

Try checking into some of the local forums that cover your area and see if you can get a recommendation to an independent shop that is knowledgeable on the B5 S4.

You could replace the Engine Coolant Temp sensor, that's a cheap DIY project and while I haven't had a problem with mine, I believe it failing can cause some other stuff to read weird that you wouldn't expect.

The secondary O2 sensors would be something else I'd take care of with a reputable parts set.

Maybe just check that the connection on the EGT's is correct. If one is failing you may be able to find a used set from Car-parts.com and swap them yourself.

There are a ton of DIY's floating around for most issues and a lot of discussions about the various common issues that crop up. Hit up those other forums and you'll either get direct help or a suggestion for a nearby shop that is better able to help than your dealer.
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:54 AM   #16
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Thanks flyboy yes the dealer said my ECU is chipped.
I bought a used ECU from wolf auto parts for $216.
I will start with this ECU then see what is fixed.
Is changing the ECU as simple as disconnecting the battery and swapping computers?

ECU eta 2-3 business days.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyboy View Post
If it has been chipped there's an additional board that is soldered onto the ECU which would complicate reflashing the tune, realistically though I doubt there's any dealership that would even know how to flash a stock ECU.

You can buy a used ECU for around $100-150 if you needed to try that, but I doubt very very much that it is your ECU causing the problems. Do you know if it is chipped?

Try checking into some of the local forums that cover your area and see if you can get a recommendation to an independent shop that is knowledgeable on the B5 S4.

You could replace the Engine Coolant Temp sensor, that's a cheap DIY project and while I haven't had a problem with mine, I believe it failing can cause some other stuff to read weird that you wouldn't expect.

The secondary O2 sensors would be something else I'd take care of with a reputable parts set.

Maybe just check that the connection on the EGT's is correct. If one is failing you may be able to find a used set from Car-parts.com and swap them yourself.

There are a ton of DIY's floating around for most issues and a lot of discussions about the various common issues that crop up. Hit up those other forums and you'll either get direct help or a suggestion for a nearby shop that is better able to help than your dealer.
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:06 PM   #17
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Do you have any idea of what chip? You can take the cover off the ECU and it may have the company name on it, most likely APR, GIAC, or MTM.

So long as the ECU you purchased is the same model as your current one you don't even need to disconnect the battery (at least I don't and I've pulled my ECU out dozens of times) just disconnect the one and plug in the replacement.

I doubt the spare ECU will fix anything, although short term it may seem like it does since it won't have any codes stored on it.
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Old 08-02-2014, 06:15 PM   #18
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No idea I think I will make the switch tomorrow and take a look.

The dealer told me what ECU I need and I made sure it was the same part number so I should be good.

My usual mechanic told me something was wrong with the ECU. It should fix the running rich codes? And possibly the MAF errors? This is what the chip does isn't it wants more fuel and air?

I got another deadly error after I got the car back from the dealership. P1519 camshaft timing malfunction bank1. I am scared of this one I don't even want to drive my car. This one came back from the dealership with this code on it.

To be honest ever since I got it back from the dealership it's been shuddering and the abs/traction lights come on all the time.

I am going to hit up those other forums you recommended to see about finding a real mechanic around here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyboy View Post
Do you have any idea of what chip? You can take the cover off the ECU and it may have the company name on it, most likely APR, GIAC, or MTM.

So long as the ECU you purchased is the same model as your current one you don't even need to disconnect the battery (at least I don't and I've pulled my ECU out dozens of times) just disconnect the one and plug in the replacement.

I doubt the spare ECU will fix anything, although short term it may seem like it does since it won't have any codes stored on it.
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Old 08-03-2014, 07:11 AM   #19
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Swapped out ECU......the part number on the ECU in the car was different the one the dealer told me to get was 8D0-907-551-T while the one in the car was -M. Dunno what this means.

Looks like a chip was soldered on the old ECU. See pics.EXILINX

Car started better, was ****ty the first time I cranked it on but then the second time was ok. Took it for a test drive no codes yet and no abs/traction lights. We will see how long this lasts for.
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Old 08-03-2014, 06:08 PM   #20
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So only two codes left

P0011 - camshaft timing position advanced or performance bank 1 - no idea but I think the dealer did something

and

P0103 - mass or volume airflow a circuit high

The dealer told me the MAF sensor was reporting the air mass was 25% higher than it should be. I think my crap downstream sensors or there is a boost leak. I changed the MAF and the new one acts the same as the old one.

The traction/abs lights still come on but a lot less often now.
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Old 08-03-2014, 06:08 PM
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