BaysideRS4

I took some pictures while I did this, so I'll attempt to do a writeup here. In all I'd say I'm very satisfied in saving the almost $700 in labor that the dealer would have charged.

I have a 2001, 0700 build, which means it has the F hose and associated ACF and other plumbing system that is different from the M and T boxes. Just keep that in mind since most of the time is spent disconnecting vaccuum lines and so forth. Your engine may look different.

The pump costs $166.06, number 078-965-561. I also got two large clamps from the dealer to replace the crimp clamps that hold the Y pipe to the rubber pieces on the front of the intake. N-024-505-4 - a whopping $4.53 per clamp rappage by the dealer for convenience. Also, I picked up the 2 intake gaskets, which were $6.19 a piece (very reasonable, I think) 078-129-717-N.

In all I dropped down $232.07 at the dealer. I got a couple of other clamps that I didn't need and a gallon of G12, which turns out I didn't need. After returning the coolant, I would have spent about $211 instead of the $850 plus tax (over $900) the dealer quoted me.

Replacing the pump itself is a piece of cake. Getting to it is where all the work is. There are 2 coolant hoses connected to it, using the expandable clamp style found on the intake tubing between the MAF and y pipe. There's an electrical plug on the back of the thing, which you can see if you look behind and underneath the intake manifold. It sits right in the middle, below the intake manifold. A very convenient spot. Couldn't have Audi figured out a way to plumb some hoses so that this part could be in an accessible place? How about below the coolant reservoir? Anywhere but where it is.

Anyway, here is the part.



Simple plug and play.

Before starting I would recommend thinking about loose dirt and crud that could be at the base of the intake manifold. I had a lot of sand there because of construction in my neighborhood. It would have really stunk to have that drop into the valve chambers when messing around with this. When you take the manifold off, your looking right into the 3 valve intake. I used a shark vaccuum to get it out, but only after I had gotten deep into this. Perhaps the day before get out a hose and apply some pressure around the base of the intake manifold to rinse away any big, loose pieces of stuff.

You are going to need clamps. I gambled and went to Autozone and picked up about a dozen each of the 1/4 - 5/8 and 5/16 - 7/8 size ones. I expected to be going to the dealer on Monday in need of some odd-sized clamp, but these worked out.

You also need a metric socket set, and various other tools that aren't out of the ordinary for a garage with an Audi in it. The best purchase I ever made was a $15 assorted set from ACE hardware of allen heads and torx bits (no torx are needed for this), and magnetic connections - which is absolutley necessary to remove the manifold bolts. You must have a magnetic 5mm allen head to remove the socket bolts from the manifold. You will flash back to your days of playing Doctor when you were a kid (not the dirty game, the electrical board game).

I opted not to drain the coolant. Would have required removal of the bumper and I didn't want to do that.

I'd guess it all took me about 8 hours. I mapped out my game plan as it unfolded. I tried to picture just all that I needed to disconnected to get the manifold off.

I disconnected the battery by removing the negative terminal. Make sure you have your radio code. I need to see if I have mine. I also opened the gas cap and retightened to release any pressure. I wasn't sure if I was going to have to be messing with any gas lines. Turns out I didn't.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/10509/dcp_0013.1.jpg">

Obviously the intake Y pipe needs to go. I ended up taking the air filter box out for ease of access. It's not necessary, but I'd do it again. I unfastened the coolant reservoir tank. This became helpful later. I also took off the plastic side engine covers. This helped me disconnect the vaccuum line you see running right across the top.



Stuff clean rags into the intake pipes. A few times, when taking off the crimp clamps, metal went flying.

You can see I have removed the bpv's, just keep them attached together, releasing the junction point just above the TBB. I also removed the plate which helps to seat the charge pressure sender on the TBB.

I released the TBB at the point where the uppipes meet. Easier than removing it from the throttle body. Loosen the nuts at the top of the upper intercooler hoses where the uppipes begin to make the removal and install go easier.

You can see I disconnected the 2 electrical plugs at the TBB. The one for the charge pressure sender on the TBB and the one for the throttle control valve. Both of these are fed from the left side of the TBB, and held for presentation purposes by a plastic fastener there. I used a razor to cut through the fastener so I could lift the manifold up. It's a form of zip tie fastener, but integrated with the housing. Upon reinstall, I simply put the wires back into the fastener. I don't think I'll ever lose sleep over a cut in the plastic fastener.

The whole idea here is to a) disconnect just enough to get the manifold up, and b) disconnect whatever else you have to, to get to the bolts holding the manifold in place.

Look at the previous picture, there are 2 hoses that need to be disconnected so that you can get to a couple of the manifold bolts. The first is in the elbow bend just to the left of the green non return valve, which is right on top of the manifold (the elbow is slightly blocked in the picture by another hose connected to the same system). You probably could get away with just disconnecting the left side (mates to a metal nipple). I did both sides and just took it out. It took some patience and careful work with a flat screwdriver. All these connections have been under such heat, that they are firmly seated to one another. They all take time.

The second hose you need to disconnect is the elbow bend on the right side of the manifold, next to the N249 valve (grey valve). This hose goes straight to the metal pipe feeding to the bpvs.

Here's a better picture of it. It's the one near the top, bent at about 60 degrees with all the writing on it. I disconnected the bottom connection.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/10509/dcp_0018.1.jpg">


With these 2 disconnected, you can easily access the 13 or so bolts that secure the manifold.

I did disconnect the vaccuum line from the rear of the manifold to the fpr, but I didn't disconnect the 2 larger hoses - one goes into the firewall, the other is connected to the N249 cluster. It was at about this time that I determined I wasn't going to lift out the manifold entirely, but was going to free it up enough so that I could get in there. And with the fuel line coming from the passenger side, I was going to lift the manifold from the driver's side the highest and the passenger side the least.

With removing the 2 rear, green bolts from the fuel rail, the 2 clusters can be freed from the manifold - the N75 valve and the valve for the ACF on the left and the N249 cluster on the right. You can push the N249 cluster all the way back to the firewall and hold it there with the unseated coolant reservoir. Very handy.

The N75 valve cluster just slides off of a groove it's held on by. There are electrical plugs on both of these clusters you need to disconnect.

I disconnected, what I believe to be the o2 sensors on the back of either side of the manifold. Just 2 bolts each and an electrical connection. The wire to the lambda probe would have not had sufficient slack to raise the manifold. The driver's side has a ground wire into the bolt. This is a double sided bolt. Remove it carefully.

There are 3 additional hoses at the rear of the manifold that I had to disconnect. One was a distributor hose that is a part of the whole F-hose mess. The other two where mated in a tri-connection fashion, probably boost hoses from either side of the engine.

Here is a view from the rear passenger side, looking from the quarter panel.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/10509/dcp_0023.jpg">


The tri-connection hoses I'll call them are grey. One here has duct tape on it (I didn't want to cross connections). The other one you can see below the black hose with red and white writing. This same black hose is the other one that needs to be disconnected. It goes to a junction point with a flat base, which is a part of the F hose deal.

Closer look at the tri-connection hoses, pre duct tape.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/10509/dcp_0022.jpg">

Just about ready to start unbolting the manifold

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/10509/dcp_0025.jpg">

The N249 cluster is out of the way and clear. There's one of the manifold bolts.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/10509/dcp_0026.jpg">

There are electrical plugs at each intake bank. Disconnect these and arrange them out of the way. They will pop out and get in the way when reinstalling the manifold.

Remove the 12 bolts holding the manifold. I had 13 total, the last one a short bolt holding the passenger side knock sensor (I believe that's what they are). There are 2 of these sensors on either side of the front of the manifold. They are held on by a small plate that is seated to the manifold by socket bolts. The one on the passenger side has it's own additional short bolt as mentioned, the one on the driver's side is held on by one of the 12 manifold bolts. Be very patient using the magnetic allen head. Although this may be more critical when reinstalling.

I did this job all by myself. At this point, another set of hands would be very helpful. You are ready to lift up the manifold from the drivers side. You'll have to prop it up with something, or someone can hold it.

Voila'



It's a bad picture for pointing out the pump. but you can see it sitting there in the middle.

Be careful about dirt and crud. You can see you are looking right into the valve chambers. I should have taken more pictures at this point, but was too excited to get this pump out.

Here's a better shot



Carefully vaccuum out along the top of the chambers where the old gaskets were. Carefully clean off any crap left.

The pump sits in 2 soft rubber bushings. I first unplugged the electrical connection in the rear (see teh blue plug?) and wriggled it out of the bushings.

The new pump has 2 caps that you can use to reduce coolant spillage during the swap out. As mentioned there are 2 connections. Easy and fast to remove and install. I did one connection at a time, capping the old pump while connecting the new one. Not a lot of coolant spilled. I had a few rags stuffed down there to soak up some of it. You have to be careful not to get coolant or bits of rags into the valve chambers.

That's about it. Reinstall is reverse. Lining up the gaskets is the only tricky part of reinstalling - that and loose electrical wires falling in your way as you line up everything.

Once all is back together, reconnect the battery, clear the lost power DTC, and do a throttle adaptation.

I didn't have any pieces left over, but I did find this by the water pump. Not sure what it is. It says AMS on it and has part number 078129734.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/10509/dcp_0032.jpg">

Blown Nogaro

Very nice! It must be a tech article. I would have flushed the cooling system though.

BaysideRS4

when I did the water pump, timing belt. Which, incidentally, the car came back from the dealer with this leak. I know the aux. pump isn't near the t-belt and water pump. Maybe air in the system expanded and busted the aux. pump or it's just coincidence. Either way, the dealer said, "so sorry."

blslhi

Great Job and thanks for the write up!

TRM

nice job!

Hibiscus Red S4

Miller Light, The Champagne of Beers!

BaysideRS4

thanks

LosGatosS4

How did you know the pump needed replacing? Was it leaking?

I've got a coolant leak at the top/front underneath the intake mani and I'm assuming it's coming from one of the aux. hose connections... I just don't know if the pump is ok or not. Guess I should just replace it for good measure while I'm fixing the leak. Were there any hose connection o-rings or gaskets that needed replacement?

Thanks again for the write up... I think I'll give it a go myself too :-)

BaysideRS4

given the location, it's what they concluded.

Every now and then I'd smell coolant when the engine was hot. Never had a puddle on the floor. I'd have to add coolant maybe every 10 days. Not a lot, maybe 1/8 cup.

If I looked down past the drivers bpv, under the intake mani, you could barely see the remnants of coolant. You can't really see the pump without tearing some things down. If you have a leak under there, then a good bet is the pump.

Here's a photo courtesy of SIMMPLY

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/54580/cams_2.jpg">

It gives a nice shot of the pump. See the 2 connections? There's no gaskets or single use clamps. It's like it was made for easy replacement, but in an unlikely place.

If you have a leak under there, I'd go ahead and bet on the pump. If there was a ruptured hose, I would guess it would leak more than a moderate leak. Like you said, if you tear down and there's other leakage, you could fix it at that time.

I had no run off on the front of the engine, it all must have ran down the back or burned off before it ever hit the ground. Nothing was visible for leakage without a thorough looksy with a flashlight underneath the manifold. If I wasn't one to look under my hood every now and then, I would have never known I had the leak, except for the occasional, faint smell.

Toy_Guy

It's like the automotive equivalent of a human heart transplant. Good job!