S4Alex

So, my car was in need of some maintenance...

I replaced:

Timing Belt
Waterpump
Thermostat
Plugs
Coils
Valve Cover gaskets
Cam tensioner gaskets and half moon
New oil
New coolant


Car is back together, minus front bumper and headlights.

Car cranks and cranks, but will not turnover
If I give it a little gas, it might turn over, kind of. It will turn over sputtering and die all within like 5-10 seconds. Boost gauge doesn't read anything. And it doesn't go passed 100-200rpm and then dies after 5-10seconds.
I plugged in my VAG and it shows no codes.

I had originally had the cam shaft on the passenger side off in TDC, but I removed it and made sure all the cam shafts on the driver and passenger notches lined up TDC. I saw this from the CPS code it was giving. Now that code is gone.

I tried to start it by:

MAF - plugged and unplugged
CAM Position Sensor - Plugged and unplugged on both driver and passenger side
Pulled Fuel Pump fuse

APR BiPipe, so no TBB.

It partially starts, so I am assuming good spark
I smell fuel from the tail pipe and I hear the pump priming when I turn the key before cranking

What else could keep the car from starting?

Could the Timing Belt be off a tooth? Would that keep the car from turning over?

I am hoping to get this taken care of without having to haul the car down to the shop. That would suck..

I have searched, but nothing completely related and have tried most of the ones that come close to my issues.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

S4Alex

Still haven't found the problem.

S4Alex

I am thinking maybe fuel pump, but I can hear it priming.

However, after it clicks a few times, I still do hear a low whine that goes away after about 30 seconds.

And if it does try and start, it will sputter and run for a few seconds and die.

S4Alex

Okay, so here is a video of the issue and some pictures of the engine bay before I closed it all up.. I had to readjust the passenger side because the marks didn't line up after I had everything on TDC. But now everything is all lined up, crank on TDC and the marks on passenger and driver side line up and the crank "cogs" are lined up with the crank bar. I also used a crank pin and the bar to do the timing belt change.




http://youtu.be/6WWgjUUQJOI

Driver side, all marks lined up on camshafts


Passenger side


Passenger side


All buttoned up.. almost...

S4Alex

Hmm, tested and no compression... no to find out why there is no compression.

I am hoping that the timing wasn't off by anything and no valves got bent.

S4Alex

Welp, got the car up and running. Apparently I had 3 bend exhaust valves.

Ended up sourcing a new top end. It was from an AllRoad, however the CamShafts were a little longer than the S4, so, I just used the camshafts from the S. Got it all back together. Made sure it was all lined up. And the nice sound of the sweet purring.

Now, I just have to run it with some Marvel Mystery a few times to hopefully get any remaining sludge out of the system.

twentysevenlitres

I'm surprised no one commented through all this!
Glad you got it sorted.
Irrelevant now I know, but you should always hand turn an engine through several revolutions after a timing belt change, you'll be able to feel any valve contact and check the cam alignment a few times before committing to a start up.

wilson94t

Also, there is a tool to hold the CAMs in place when replcaing the belt. it's a good idea to use this to avoid bent valves. I did not see this tool in your photos.

There is a tech article showing a timing belt replacement here that mentions this tool.

S4Alex

I know, way late reply. But, yeah, I have both the cam pin and the bar. Used both. Man, that cam pin is a pain to get in the little spot under the car.

But, next time I will try hand cranking to see. Didn't think of that.

But so far, over a year out and the car is still running (engine wise) good. A little whine from a new replaced alternator, but I can live with that.