Just finished helping a friend with DIY piggies on jackstands. What a MFPITA....
04-03-2007, 11:41 AM
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Just finished helping a friend with DIY piggies on jackstands. What a MFPITA....
good god.
that totally and completely sucked. is it worth it in the end? absolutely.
the best part is that it's free (assuming you have the tools and you don't break anything).
Took a good 18 hrs from start to test drive (and we're slow).
If anyone's interested the tech section writeups are excellent. The driver side is considerably more difficult.
Here are 5 tips:
1. You don't need the stubby wrenches but you DEFINITELY need the flex-head wrenches (I don't see how one could complete this without them - especailly the 'extended wrench' described in the writeup).
2. Removing the heatshields makes install SO much easier than removal. Heatshields will look like crushed beer cans by the time you get them out.
3. Definitely wear breathing protection, goggles and gloves when gutting. The dust from gutting is nasty and certainly toxic.
4. Be gentle with the flex joint to the main cat as the braids WILL begin to fall apart. Support the main cat while gutting the pre-cat, don't just let it flop around.
5. Put the car up as high as you safely can on the jackstands. The higher the better as you will need to rotate the dps to get them out (esp driver side).
This mod is really a bitch to get done. Plan and allow 2 days if you're gutting them yourself. Be patient and careful (I tore a coolant line trying to break the top driver side dp nut - added an extra 2 hrs to the job).
that totally and completely sucked. is it worth it in the end? absolutely.
the best part is that it's free (assuming you have the tools and you don't break anything).
Took a good 18 hrs from start to test drive (and we're slow).
If anyone's interested the tech section writeups are excellent. The driver side is considerably more difficult.
Here are 5 tips:
1. You don't need the stubby wrenches but you DEFINITELY need the flex-head wrenches (I don't see how one could complete this without them - especailly the 'extended wrench' described in the writeup).
2. Removing the heatshields makes install SO much easier than removal. Heatshields will look like crushed beer cans by the time you get them out.
3. Definitely wear breathing protection, goggles and gloves when gutting. The dust from gutting is nasty and certainly toxic.
4. Be gentle with the flex joint to the main cat as the braids WILL begin to fall apart. Support the main cat while gutting the pre-cat, don't just let it flop around.
5. Put the car up as high as you safely can on the jackstands. The higher the better as you will need to rotate the dps to get them out (esp driver side).
This mod is really a bitch to get done. Plan and allow 2 days if you're gutting them yourself. Be patient and careful (I tore a coolant line trying to break the top driver side dp nut - added an extra 2 hrs to the job).
04-03-2007, 12:13 PM
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I had one 12" extension (cost $4) and a set of crappy black & decker bits. I just kept changing
bits. You'll need (larger=better), a long cold chisel, a big hammer, and the pliers.
The stuff is very persistent. Be patient and it comes apart. You'll find that your second dp will be easier b/c you'll have your technique down.
Follow the tech article and drill out a triangle pattern then chisel the center out. As you're hammering away, use the pliers to pull out small pieces. You'll notice the material will begin separating from the wall of the dp and you'll be able to pull out larger and larger chunks until it just completely falls apart and you can pull out huge chunks.
As you get towards the end and most of the material separates from the wall be careful not to compact it down into the tapering part of the pipe. I did this and had to drill a bit into it and pull it out.
good luck!
The stuff is very persistent. Be patient and it comes apart. You'll find that your second dp will be easier b/c you'll have your technique down.
Follow the tech article and drill out a triangle pattern then chisel the center out. As you're hammering away, use the pliers to pull out small pieces. You'll notice the material will begin separating from the wall of the dp and you'll be able to pull out larger and larger chunks until it just completely falls apart and you can pull out huge chunks.
As you get towards the end and most of the material separates from the wall be careful not to compact it down into the tapering part of the pipe. I did this and had to drill a bit into it and pull it out.
good luck!
04-03-2007, 12:14 PM
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I use an 1/2 x 18" drill bit, 18" x 3/4 cold chisel, 12" x 1/2" cold chisel
BFH, RFH.
Stork pliers, some picks, etc...
The to polish: flapper wheels on a stanard shank extension.
Stork pliers, some picks, etc...
The to polish: flapper wheels on a stanard shank extension.
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