davenew

Come to find out.. the rear joint was worn and binding as the driveshaft turned which caused the shaft to vibrate at the rubber support of the center driveshaft support bearing. IT started with a very slight vibration but steadily got worse. It's very tough to describe.

davenew

something like $900 brand new.

Cooper993

When I move my shaft by hand, the rear joint has about 1/4" of play in it. Is that normal or worn?

davenew

The shaft and CV joint at the end should not have slack while rotating each of them by hand. My rear cv joint had just enough slop (relative to the shaft) where I could hear it click while rotating it. I could not do the same with the front cv joint.. it was very tight. IF you're referring to sliding the driveshaft fore/aft direction.. that's normal. The overall length of the driveshaft has to be slightly adjustable to accomodate slight movement of the rear diff and engine, etc.

When you install a new driveshaft the instructions say to slide it all the way forward and make a mark, then all the way to the rear and make another mark.. then move it to the center point between those two marks and tighten the center bearing mount bolts.

Cooper993

I mean left to right not fore and aft. But it does not click. Just has some play. Guess it's bad.

Hibiscus Red S4

No boot fyi

Jsmooth65

There isn't a boot over that CV.

Jsmooth65

I called Raxles, and they didn't have any built, because they didn't have any cores returned yet.

Blauparts wanted $400 for the kit, which was a "Pre-order" item.

PowerTrain is building mine today and shipping it out today for $535. Nuff said.

Cooper993

So you got a whole "new" driveshaft or just the joint?

Jsmooth65

CV to CV with new bearing and u-joint and balancing