Chris's S4

As for coil packs, just as the icm's... They are solid state electronics in which they either work or fail. Strictly just that. They will never just start to fade out... solid state doesn't work that way. It's either working or not. Quite simple actually...


Also another thing to consider highly is that this car isn't a 6-speed... its a tip, thus it's transmission also tells the ecu when to cut power. Ya could have an issue with a sticky valve or clutch pack inside the transmission it self. which is what that jerk type feeling is, that or power being cut for some reason... Run vag on the transmission module see if there's any codes. For us 6-speed guys, when power is cut like that, esp lights usually blinks... which can sometimes be an indicator as a faulty wheel speed sensor, like rust build up. Which can result in erratic behavior of the car under high load conditions. That or the rust is vibrating between the wheel sensor and causing the abs system to pick up erratic wheel speeds, when the wheel speed is just fine. I'd say check out my posts on "relay clicking", "bad wheel bearing", "abs issue" they're in my list under my profile. Read up on that and see if any of those symptoms seem close to your situation. Im sure it may not be close, but might as well check the read wheel sensors for rust anyways... It can only benefit you.

As for the rear wheel brake lock up and random headlight flicker and relay clicking.. I've just solved that issue which is in my profile if you guys wanna read up on that situation. Also I'll be providing the solution to the problem as well.

You may have had the esp light blink on and off and didn't catch it...

Good luck, hope this helps. lmk if ya got any other questions.

Chris

BlackB5S4

Well, the mechanic won't replace the O2 sensor, he said he won't replace unnessary things. I asked him about the EGT sensors and he doesn't seem to know what it is and corrected me and said its called an EGR valve, are those the same thing? He said that all my problems were due to air leak as he found one of the hose wasn't connected properly or disconnected. He also said he fixed the intake manifold gasket and will drive it for 100 miles to see if the CEL comes back on. If it does then he will replace sensors. What you guys think? The mechanic is a friend of the manager at the ar dealership where I bought the car.

Chris's S4

Clearly this mechanic is an idiot... if ya want I'll call him and tell him over the phone, just in case he isn't aware of it yet. DumbA$$... Not to flame anyone, but really... come on! the code tells you right there in the dtc read out! It's not a secondary air code, or a kombi valve code(egr valve), it's not any of those things... It's clearly a EGT code... Not hard to read it directly off the vag screen, even the description tell ya... This right here!... should be a massive RED flag to you about your current mechanic. I'd think seriously about going any further with him.

9 Faults Found:

P1287 -- Boost Presure Control Valve N249: Open Circuit, possible frayed wire/broken. means there's no complete circuit.
P1118 -- Oxygen Lambda Sensor Heating B1 S2: Open Circuit: Same thing here... no complete circuit.
P1114 -- Oxygen Lambda Sensor Heating B1 S2: Internal Resistance too High, Means it's on it's way out... dying...
P1453 -- Exhast Gas Temp (EGT) Sensor 1 G235: Open or Short to Plus, No complete circuit or short.. that's an obvious one..
P1557 -- Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation, ya have a boost leak, I got this when I blew tbb 2 months ago...
P1459 -- Exhaust Gas Temp (EGT) Sensor 2 G236: Implausible Signal , possibly dying... start looking for new ones.
P0103 -- Mass Air Flow Sensor G70: Signal too High, Can't remember, also didn't look it up yet, but could be dirty, could have intermittent signal wire. check ross-tech.com for a better explaination.. they're a good info source.
P1602 -- Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low ... isn't it obvious too? really?!.. just a slightly low batt, ecu picks up on that at key on ign. start the car and run it for a few mins...
P0140 -- Oxygen Lambda Sensor B1 S2: No Activity... Either dead, or bad wires somewhere... I had this... also checked out my entire wiring system... o2's were dead... actually dead on arrival doa... they were brand new! Returned now. put "bad"/original ones back in... haven't had a cel in 5 to 6 days... which with the "brand new"ones.. Id get a cel before I got the end of my street... not even 400 ft.... clearly doa!right?

Readiness: 0010 0001

Clearly on all these codes, disregarding the voltage code... are fairly serious codes.. more than enough to **** off your car, and youself as well... Definitely will leave you scratching your head in wtf happend! So read the next part VERY CAREFULLY!

Now before you let him take your car for a massively long joyride... stop him! He doesn't need to do a 100 mile drive for anything!!!! PAY CLOSE ATTENTION! I'm going to provide to you, the readiness procedure which will trigger ALL systems, which will then trigger any fault codes if needed by the ecu. It only takes 20 accumulated minutes to complete the test. less than 5 miles probably. Run the readiness procedure and then have Mr. "awesome" mechanic run vag-com again to read the codes if any. If ya got a vag-com yourself then do it. Ebay sells the cable for 5 bucks from china.. I have one and it runs great! had it for over 4 years now, bro just bought one.. great too. Do it!


Real quick here, on the rear o2s, you could probably run whats called "spark plug defoulers". Autozone, kragen has them under the "help!" red package.... usually where the replacement fuses are. large section of these help! parts... Crap I can't find my package with the part #... just look for the one that is for 18mm. I did this to my rear o2s.. almost a yr ago... haven't had a code for them ever since. Those rear o2's are practically worthless. They'll tell ya if your pre-cats are going out, but usually wrong. If ya pass smog with flying colors, usually means ur main cat is just fine (which is behind the pre-cats and rear 02s, hence worthless rear 02s). K part # is 42002... google hahaha. they're 5-6 bucks.. two in a package. Remove your rear 02s, add a small amount of anti-seize, then screw defouler into exhaust, then add small amount to o2s and screw into defouler. tighten everything up just enough. Doesn't need to be giant man arm-strong strength... You may need to remove parts later. Keep that in mind is all. Alright hopefully this info will be enough for ya and help ya see things alil more clearly.


Good luck and let us know how everything goes.
Chris

47ford

Saw no reason to re-write this as it is a spot on assessment of your mechanic and what the codes say. For my A4 (not the same as an S4 I know) it was like $109 for my mechanic to do one of the O2 sensors. And $85 for the engine coolant temp sensor (installed - sometimes it is worth it, other times DIY is better option). Gotta be a better mechanic in your area or DIY. Def get VAG-COM & Bently (on my to-do list just as soon as I sell some of the extra wheels and tires taking up space in my garage).