Results from My Recently Purchased S4 Diagnostic/Inspection
03-28-2011, 08:56 AM
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Results from My Recently Purchased S4 Diagnostic/Inspection
Took my car to have an inspection done today. It is a 2001 S4 with 53k miles on it.
Here is a list of what the second shop told me needed to be done. Everything is copied from the sheet they printed and gave to me with price breakdown, labor costs, and description. I was wondering if I could get some input on whether or not the work seems to be "legit" and if the prices are fair. Thanks!
-Replace valve cover gaskets, cam tensioner seals, cam seals (Tensioner gasket kit 19.20, camshaft seal 35.80, valve cover gaskets 69.90)
LABOR: $573.93.....PARTS: $124.90...TOTAL: $698.83
-Air filter cleaning
LABOR: $52.18
-Replace fuel filter (fuel filter 26.00)
LABOR: $250.44.....PARTS: $26.00.....TOTAL: $276.44
-Replace upper control arms (Stern CA Kit B5/6/7 599.00)
LABOR: $208.70.....PARTS: $599.00.....TOTAL: $807.70
-Replace engine mounts (engine mount 244.00)
LABOR: $313.05.....PARTS: $244.00.....TOTAL: $557.05
-Replace brake rotors & pads front and rear (brake disc coated 200.00, brake disc 70.00, brake pad set 130.00, brake pad set 70.00)
LABOR: $313.05.....PARTS: $470.00.....TOTAL: $783.05
-Replace coolant reservoir (expansion tank 68.50)
LABOR: $41.74.....PARTS: $68.50.....TOTAL: $110.24
-Timing belt service MK4 - "Kit" includes - R&R tensioning roller, tensioning leveler, tensioning dampener, timing belt, relay roller, thermostat, thero. o-ring (thermostat 29.95, water pump metal IMP 125.80, thermostat o-ring 1.60, multi rib belt 35.22, timing belt tensioner 89.20, t-belt tensioner dam 164.40, timing belt 65.20, timing belt roller 78.42, antifreeze/coolant 28.50, recycle fee 3.00, t-belt tensioner lev 51.33)
LABOR: $626.10.....PARTS: $672.62.....TOTAL: $1298.72
-Brake fluid flush (1 liter size 22.02)
LABOR: $104.35.....PARTS: $22.02.....TOTAL: $126.37
Here is a list of what the second shop told me needed to be done. Everything is copied from the sheet they printed and gave to me with price breakdown, labor costs, and description. I was wondering if I could get some input on whether or not the work seems to be "legit" and if the prices are fair. Thanks!
-Replace valve cover gaskets, cam tensioner seals, cam seals (Tensioner gasket kit 19.20, camshaft seal 35.80, valve cover gaskets 69.90)
LABOR: $573.93.....PARTS: $124.90...TOTAL: $698.83
-Air filter cleaning
LABOR: $52.18
-Replace fuel filter (fuel filter 26.00)
LABOR: $250.44.....PARTS: $26.00.....TOTAL: $276.44
-Replace upper control arms (Stern CA Kit B5/6/7 599.00)
LABOR: $208.70.....PARTS: $599.00.....TOTAL: $807.70
-Replace engine mounts (engine mount 244.00)
LABOR: $313.05.....PARTS: $244.00.....TOTAL: $557.05
-Replace brake rotors & pads front and rear (brake disc coated 200.00, brake disc 70.00, brake pad set 130.00, brake pad set 70.00)
LABOR: $313.05.....PARTS: $470.00.....TOTAL: $783.05
-Replace coolant reservoir (expansion tank 68.50)
LABOR: $41.74.....PARTS: $68.50.....TOTAL: $110.24
-Timing belt service MK4 - "Kit" includes - R&R tensioning roller, tensioning leveler, tensioning dampener, timing belt, relay roller, thermostat, thero. o-ring (thermostat 29.95, water pump metal IMP 125.80, thermostat o-ring 1.60, multi rib belt 35.22, timing belt tensioner 89.20, t-belt tensioner dam 164.40, timing belt 65.20, timing belt roller 78.42, antifreeze/coolant 28.50, recycle fee 3.00, t-belt tensioner lev 51.33)
LABOR: $626.10.....PARTS: $672.62.....TOTAL: $1298.72
-Brake fluid flush (1 liter size 22.02)
LABOR: $104.35.....PARTS: $22.02.....TOTAL: $126.37
03-29-2011, 09:23 AM
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Don't bother with the valve cover gaskets, cam tensioner seals, cam seals, air filter cleaning, or fuel filter. The valve covers on 2.7T engines always seep oil, and there is no reason to replace the fuel filter.
I'm also not sure if the timing belt is due. You need to check the recommended service intervals.
I'm also not sure if the timing belt is due. You need to check the recommended service intervals.
03-29-2011, 09:36 AM
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Don't bother with the valve cover gaskets, cam tensioner seals, cam seals, air filter cleaning, or fuel filter. The valve covers on 2.7T engines always seep oil, and there is no reason to replace the fuel filter.
I'm also not sure if the timing belt is due. You need to check the recommended service intervals.
I'm also not sure if the timing belt is due. You need to check the recommended service intervals.
As far as the timing belt - another mechanic had previously looked at the belt itself and said that it is in good shape; however, he told me that since the car is 10 years old the other parts (such as tensioners, etc.) will go "bad" due to age, and that I should have the belt replaced by this summer or early Fall at the latest...
03-29-2011, 04:55 PM
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I am doing the timing belt kit at 50k. But not because of miles but because it is made of 10 year old rubber at this point. The belt looks absolutely perfect, but you just never know. I am pretty sure the rest of the kit is unnecessary, but i figure why the hell not do it all while im in there. And if the engine is already that torn down, might as well do all the gaskets.
This is of course me doing all the labor, so it makes sense to throw in and extra $300 worth of parts when im installing the TB. Im pretty sure you can get negotiate the labor cost as there is definitely some overlap between the TB kit and gasket installs.
This is of course me doing all the labor, so it makes sense to throw in and extra $300 worth of parts when im installing the TB. Im pretty sure you can get negotiate the labor cost as there is definitely some overlap between the TB kit and gasket installs.
03-30-2011, 07:47 AM
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Is this the same S4 you mentioned in an earlier note?
Kevin, I thought in your "introduction note" that the car had undergone a full service including the replacement of the turbochargers; I would have presumed that the timing belt would be part of this (potentially) but certainly the air filter, fuel filter, etc. Do you have documentation on the service?
Otherwise, this is a rather long list. If the belt has not been done, as has been suggested, do it and do the full services with the water pump, tensioners, etc. There is no point in having the front end off of the car and not doing the whole kit. Regarding oil leaks, I have two 2.7 T cars; one leaks and the other does not (My S4) and it has 130K on it. If the leaks are significant, you should deal with it while the timing belt is done.
I do not know where this diagnoses took place, however i would suggest a good independent Audi repair shop in your area; the local Audi club chapter can steer you in the right direction. They can also work with you on prioritizing the list you have to manage your cash flow better.
One thing not on your list is a transmission flush and fill. Given the age of the car, this would be a good idea. This is also very expensive so if the transmission is shifting fine, you can stage this at a later date.
Otherwise, this is a rather long list. If the belt has not been done, as has been suggested, do it and do the full services with the water pump, tensioners, etc. There is no point in having the front end off of the car and not doing the whole kit. Regarding oil leaks, I have two 2.7 T cars; one leaks and the other does not (My S4) and it has 130K on it. If the leaks are significant, you should deal with it while the timing belt is done.
I do not know where this diagnoses took place, however i would suggest a good independent Audi repair shop in your area; the local Audi club chapter can steer you in the right direction. They can also work with you on prioritizing the list you have to manage your cash flow better.
One thing not on your list is a transmission flush and fill. Given the age of the car, this would be a good idea. This is also very expensive so if the transmission is shifting fine, you can stage this at a later date.
03-30-2011, 08:24 AM
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Kevin, I thought in your "introduction note" that the car had undergone a full service including the replacement of the turbochargers; I would have presumed that the timing belt would be part of this (potentially) but certainly the air filter, fuel filter, etc. Do you have documentation on the service?
Otherwise, this is a rather long list. If the belt has not been done, as has been suggested, do it and do the full services with the water pump, tensioners, etc. There is no point in having the front end off of the car and not doing the whole kit. Regarding oil leaks, I have two 2.7 T cars; one leaks and the other does not (My S4) and it has 130K on it. If the leaks are significant, you should deal with it while the timing belt is done.
I do not know where this diagnoses took place, however i would suggest a good independent Audi repair shop in your area; the local Audi club chapter can steer you in the right direction. They can also work with you on prioritizing the list you have to manage your cash flow better.
One thing not on your list is a transmission flush and fill. Given the age of the car, this would be a good idea. This is also very expensive so if the transmission is shifting fine, you can stage this at a later date.
One thing not on your list is a transmission flush and fill. Given the age of the car, this would be a good idea. This is also very expensive so if the transmission is shifting fine, you can stage this at a later date.
03-30-2011, 02:32 PM
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Some interesting news for today:
I started to hear a VERY slight "clunk" sound when I accelerate from a stop...I searched on the forums and read that most people say this is a suspension-related problem, particularly control arms. Since the shop said my uppers needed to be replaced when I took the car in for the inspection, I figured that was putting "2 and 2 together." However, I called the original mechanic who had posession of the car when I bought it, and he said that the whole front-end suspension was new - bushings, control arms, everything. So now I don't know what the hell to think....
The car never made any noise of this sort until yesterday...so am I crazy to think that some people may not be trustworthy, and that the shop who did the inspection could have "messed with" my car to get me to take it back and spend some money on it? I have not had a chance to get under the car and check all the stuff out for myself, but I also don't think the first mechanic would have lied about the car having a new front suspension setup, especially since I already bought the car and it was clearly stated that there was no warranty
I started to hear a VERY slight "clunk" sound when I accelerate from a stop...I searched on the forums and read that most people say this is a suspension-related problem, particularly control arms. Since the shop said my uppers needed to be replaced when I took the car in for the inspection, I figured that was putting "2 and 2 together." However, I called the original mechanic who had posession of the car when I bought it, and he said that the whole front-end suspension was new - bushings, control arms, everything. So now I don't know what the hell to think....
The car never made any noise of this sort until yesterday...so am I crazy to think that some people may not be trustworthy, and that the shop who did the inspection could have "messed with" my car to get me to take it back and spend some money on it? I have not had a chance to get under the car and check all the stuff out for myself, but I also don't think the first mechanic would have lied about the car having a new front suspension setup, especially since I already bought the car and it was clearly stated that there was no warranty
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03-30-2011, 05:13 PM
#8
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Can anyone else support this?
As far as the timing belt - another mechanic had previously looked at the belt itself and said that it is in good shape; however, he told me that since the car is 10 years old the other parts (such as tensioners, etc.) will go "bad" due to age, and that I should have the belt replaced by this summer or early Fall at the latest...
As far as the timing belt - another mechanic had previously looked at the belt itself and said that it is in good shape; however, he told me that since the car is 10 years old the other parts (such as tensioners, etc.) will go "bad" due to age, and that I should have the belt replaced by this summer or early Fall at the latest...
04-02-2011, 07:38 PM
#9
labor seems high.
-Replace valve cover gaskets, cam tensioner seals, cam seals (Tensioner gasket kit 19.20, camshaft seal 35.80, valve cover gaskets 69.90)
LABOR: $573.93.....PARTS: $124.90...TOTAL: $698.83
****5.5 hours? if this is not leaking lots, i'd just leave it. these are easy to get to when you change the spark plugs. I waited to do mine until i changed my timing belt recently.
-Air filter cleaning
LABOR: $52.18
****Air filter cleaning? Just get two new ones (engine & cabin) and replace. takes 15 minutes to do both.
-Replace fuel filter (fuel filter 26.00)
LABOR: $250.44.....PARTS: $26.00.....TOTAL: $276.44
****Even at $100/hr, that's 2.5 hours?! uhhhh.
-Replace upper control arms (Stern CA Kit B5/6/7 599.00)
LABOR: $208.70.....PARTS: $599.00.....TOTAL: $807.70
****2 hours to do this. sounds a little slow but OK.
-Replace engine mounts (engine mount 244.00)
LABOR: $313.05.....PARTS: $244.00.....TOTAL: $557.05
****3 hours? maybe 1.5, especially with a lift.
-Replace brake rotors & pads front and rear (brake disc coated 200.00, brake disc 70.00, brake pad set 130.00, brake pad set 70.00)
LABOR: $313.05.....PARTS: $470.00.....TOTAL: $783.05
****Pads are slightly pricy, labor is 2 hours too long. dunno rotors, i don't use stock ones.
-Replace coolant reservoir (expansion tank 68.50)
LABOR: $41.74.....PARTS: $68.50.....TOTAL: $110.24
****That's probably about right, though this could be happening while the brakes are being changed. Ideally they'll just hook i tot the machine which will exchange all the fluid.
LABOR: $573.93.....PARTS: $124.90...TOTAL: $698.83
****5.5 hours? if this is not leaking lots, i'd just leave it. these are easy to get to when you change the spark plugs. I waited to do mine until i changed my timing belt recently.
-Air filter cleaning
LABOR: $52.18
****Air filter cleaning? Just get two new ones (engine & cabin) and replace. takes 15 minutes to do both.
-Replace fuel filter (fuel filter 26.00)
LABOR: $250.44.....PARTS: $26.00.....TOTAL: $276.44
****Even at $100/hr, that's 2.5 hours?! uhhhh.
-Replace upper control arms (Stern CA Kit B5/6/7 599.00)
LABOR: $208.70.....PARTS: $599.00.....TOTAL: $807.70
****2 hours to do this. sounds a little slow but OK.
-Replace engine mounts (engine mount 244.00)
LABOR: $313.05.....PARTS: $244.00.....TOTAL: $557.05
****3 hours? maybe 1.5, especially with a lift.
-Replace brake rotors & pads front and rear (brake disc coated 200.00, brake disc 70.00, brake pad set 130.00, brake pad set 70.00)
LABOR: $313.05.....PARTS: $470.00.....TOTAL: $783.05
****Pads are slightly pricy, labor is 2 hours too long. dunno rotors, i don't use stock ones.
-Replace coolant reservoir (expansion tank 68.50)
LABOR: $41.74.....PARTS: $68.50.....TOTAL: $110.24
****That's probably about right, though this could be happening while the brakes are being changed. Ideally they'll just hook i tot the machine which will exchange all the fluid.
Last edited by wilson94t; 04-02-2011 at 07:41 PM.
04-03-2011, 05:55 PM
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Wilson thanks a lot for the reply! I really appreciate you estimating an HONEST time for the work to be done - I definately planned on doing the fuel filter, air filter, and brakes myself...even though Sears just did a free inspection on my car (had a "squeak" I was trying to hunt down) and they told me that my brakes were fine and I had a good bit of time before they needed to be replaced