echo_s4

As I accelerated out of my final turn driving home today, I heard a horrible screeching noise. I initially thought someone was the butchering geese. I'm starting to realize it must've been the song of the turbo lady.

I recorded the noise while parked. You can have a listen:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blIjFgesDXw

Well, are these definitely bad KO3's, or could it be a boost leak or a loose belt somewhere? In any case, I'll have to bring it into the shop. Any recommendations for shops in the SF bay area? How much can I expect to pay for new turbos?

Should I have anything else replaced while they're in there? I'm fine with the performance of my stock B5 S4. But I understand KO4's or GT28's are the way to go. Will I need new metallic diverter valves or at least 710N's to support the new turbos, or will my old 710B's suffice?

Thanks for the advice.

Chris's S4

My ears! well ebay's got rebuild kits for $40... That's what I would do. Or buy them and give them to the shop to rebuild. From what I've heard is that as long as you put it back together the same way you took it apart, then there's no need to rebalance. Something about keeping the turbines on the line to one another with the shaft also.

Pulling the motor and dealing with that won't be cheap, no doubt. But to save your self from buying new turbos... There's nothing wrong with rebuilding if your planning of sticking with stock setup. If your planning of steppin up, now's the time to do it.. (clearly) But if your not then rebuild is your cheapest bet. If ya look around, all the turbo companies that offer to rebuild, use the same parts as the suppliers on ebay. Only difference is your paying for someone of a TURBO COMPANY to take your money. Then the fine print, "if you'd like, we rebalance also... for a small fee" or natually they'll include it in a prices thats jacked up higher.

Anyways long story short, there's plenty of options... I don't wanna start any beef or anything with anyone on here to argue whats the best direction to go. Everyone has different opinions, and that's cool. I do all my own work, hence why I'd rebuild it my self. Plus have had many friends who deal with turbos more than I do tell me the same things.

Good luck and lmk how things go, I'm curious.
Chris

Check out ebay for "K03 K04 rebuild kits"... also pay attention to which kit you buy, you want the dual oil journal bearing... I believe the singal was the old one, then the dual came out. I could be wrong, but just check it out. Maybe someone on here can check me on that....

jamesdmanley

check your pulleys and belts too. something is definitely not right there

nooB5

On a good note...

...you have a beautiful pixel display my friend!
lol

echo_s4

Chris, James, thanks for the tips. Well I'm happy to report that the problem is now gone. I'm ashamed to admit that I had been putting off an oil change. I checked the oil level, and sure enough, it was below min. So I added 1.5 quarts of M1 0W-40 to bring it back to max level. And voila the noise disappeared.

Let this post be a reminder to change your oil on schedule and to periodically check your oil level.

I hope I haven't caused any permanent damage... now time for that oil change.

Chris's S4

Hopefully nothing serious has been done.. But in all real aspects, chances are the damage has already been done in which case it's just paved the road for the downfall of which ever turbo that was that made the screeching noise. Again hopefully not, but be aware it may come back with further damage. Once an object with 100,000 rpms goes without oil for a short period of time, chances are it's going to give out some time soon after the event.

I hope not, I've been close to low, but never below. Also don't drive my car hard enough to keep hearing the turbos. I drive around cops alot so it's not ideal to get on it to much around here. Though it is fun.. lmao!

DAS4

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echo_s4

Yeah, I've been neglecting the windshield fluid level too. I can't believe I've allowed myself to become so careless with my S4. I'm trying to make amends now by doing extra long warm ups and cool downs. I feel like a failed parent.

noob, I wish I could say my dash has always been looking fine. As many of you can relate, I had the original replaced a few years ago when a line of pixels would disappear intermittently.

Chris's S4

Longer warmup's only mean wasted fuel and more smog, also takes forever for your car to actually get warm. Driving it gently under 3k till the water temp comes up is the best way, warms up the engine and a decent rate, yet not to fast. Also helps keeps carbon build up down to a minimum.

Longer cool downs again only mean wasted fuel... Get the lower temp after run switch and let your after run system do the cooling down for you without wasting costly fuel. Also another thing to consider is (being a helo pilot) car engines dont cool down by idling... they actually get hotter. The reason is because the rpms change so frequently that the temp is controlled by the coolant. Thus once its warm its stay about there with little flucuation (that's prob not spelled right lol). So rather than sit there and idle for five mins.. your best bet is to shut down.. now if we're talking about oil that's alil different. Yes it's hotter and yes it'll cool down alil while sitting there... but it's such a small change, that you wont catch it on any of the gauges we have in the car because they're not precise enough to a single digit number. Thus it's a waste of time and fuel.. Best bet here... Don't get on the turbo hard in your last few block from home.. Pussyfoot it home and then let the after run system take care of the turbo's as it was originally meant to do.

Since I've changed over to it, I'll never worry about my turbo's. I warm them up gently in the morning, and cool the oil down slowing as I'm coming home... Of course I can't see that the oil is going down any number at all.. But knowing that I'm not driving the car really hard all the way up and into my drive way means it's definitely cooler than the other.

Back to the comment about the heli's.. they run and higher rpms for longer periods of time, so temp and oil temp run hotter. So doing a 4-minute cool down is essencial to the life of the engine. You can actually see the temps come down, at which point then we shut down and call it a day.

Just some random information... To most probably won't care, to thse who care will see the reason in it.

Chris

P.s... whats with the wiper fluid? Is that some inside joke or something I'm supposed to know about but don't? hahaha

echo_s4

Good insight. That makes sense to me. I remember when my previous car was on its last legs, it would tend to overheat when stopped at a red light. I'll be glad not to waste the extra fuel and time.

btw, regarding the windshield fluid... it's a reference to the warning in my dash. You see the orange animation that looks like a sprinkler? That just means the car's low on wiper fluid.