B8aruba

Just did this on an already ordered MY17 S6... called the ACNA headquarters and explained the situation. The Affinity program is a new concept, so they waived the 6 mnth wait, got my certificate and member number in 3 days. Took into dealership and got an additional 6% off the order price! It's seriously worth a try for $750, worth thousands back in your pocket if your dealership honors it.

MikeS6

OK thank you. However to clarify as I might;
1.)Theres a huge difference between a discount and a Rebate (or "Incentive")
The dealership did you a solid with the -8% off MSRP, not a lot of dealers will just cut to the invoice price.


2.) Remember rebates are YOUR money, not the dealerships. It's very similar to you bringing in $3000 in 100 dollar bills. The great thing about rebates is it's deducted off of the selling price saving you additional taxes.
But that's YOUR CASH, that you agree to divert to the dealership. Also "they" did not give that to you, Audi USA ("The factory") did.


3.) I always say buy, never lease. You loose all of your power in a lease deal, theres too many variables to keep track of, even for an experienced purchaser, and the dealerships will resort to altering MF's and RV's to make the numbers work in their favor, especially if the deal is "too close to the bone."


4.) The dealerships are constantly getting Dealer Cash on most Audi's, it's not public, amounts vary, and it's difficult to say that I "know" this, but I had at the time confirmed that my dealership got $1000 Dealer Cash on a A6/S6 purchase. So that's where some of that $500 for event attendees came from. That IS THIER money, and they gave you an additional discount, but they probably got $1000 in dealer cash, so they are still in the black so to speak.


5.) Always finance through the Dealer. It's a great "Nod" to them that helps make the deal a little sweeter for them, They get a "reserve" from the bank, basically they get paid a small amount of money approximately $500, for closing a loan deal, of course the amount they receive varies. As you did, you can always pay off the loan, or refinance it, if the terms are not as favorable as you should receive from a private source. Most dealers will match a rate, or come very close. Lastly, It's also incredibly convenient to have the dealership handle the financing. I just go into the finance office (knowing the numbers in my head) and sign all the paperwork.


6.) Lastly, if you could have traded you vehicle in to the dealer, I would have. You just insist on maximum trade in value + $500 or $750. It again gives the dealership a little more of a sweeter transaction. But mostly you save more on taxes (in most states) because again that amount is deducted from the selling price.


...So yea basically you got a 8.5% discount off of the vehicle, btw.

thehaviet

Is this true? I just bought two cars, and rebates are always after taxes. It's like paying your purchase with $3000 extra cash in deposit.

For example:

Selling price: $50,000
Taxes: 7% = $3,500
Total Price: $53,500
Rebates: $3,000 (equivalent to cash deposit)
Balance Due: $50,500

MikeS6

Like all vehicle purchases, they are highly regulated by the state.




States That Do Not Tax Cash Rebates

• Alaska
• Arizona
• Delaware
• Iowa
• Kansas
• Kentucky
• Louisiana
• Massachusetts
• Minnesota
• Missouri
• Montana
• Nebraska
• New Hampshire
• Oklahoma
• Oregon
• Pennsylvania
• Rhode Island
• Texas
• Utah
• Vermont
• Wyoming

So sorry in CT they don't allow that, however I wonder if the dealer could have just offered you the Rebate amount to your trade, where it is Legal for you to deduct the trade in value from the purchase, I'm not sure if you could like "loop-hole" that. Have to have someone who sells cars in CT chime in.