MadAboutCars

You can get a battery power impact wrench. Ryobi does one here.

Also with the jack point cover, it pays to push your finger in where the catch is and push the catch forward, as you pull down and then repeat for the other side. This avoids damaging the catch point and causing the cover to not latch back in properly.

schalliol

Thanks for the tips! I have a nice Makita LXT 18V Impact Wrench, but it doesn't have a torque gauge, so I guess it's out for putting the lugs back on, but it sounds like I can do the wheels myself.

tenspeed

You can use your impact wrench to put the nuts back on but let off near the end and use the torque wrench to finish them off. Tighten in a star pattern and go around twice. It doesn't hurt to retorque after 50-100 miles.

I have a corded electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight and it tops out near 100#. I also have a metal wheel hanger bolt to hold the wheel. There's a plastic hanger bolt in the trunk that I discovered after I bought the metal one.

When working on a front wheel, turn the wheel slightly to keep the breaker bar/torque wrench handle from hitting the fender. Same deal when doing a brake job or hub/axle replacement.

I paint the hub near the centric ring with marine grade anti seize to make wheel removal easier the next time.

schalliol

Good advice! My impact wrench goes way higher than 100, so I'd definitely let off. Can you explain what the hanger bolt is for? I can't picture it. I'm just imagining tightening and loosening the bolts and sliding the wheel on and off.

tenspeed

Remove one lug bolt, insert the tool and remove the remaining bolts. The tool holds the wheel in place.

Here's the one I bought.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231048815619?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

HiTEC

I've owned many Audi's over the past 20 years, and the plastic one that has comes in the trunk of everyone of my cars has never failed me, and I always have separate summer and winter wheels.

If you've never worked on a German car before it is kind of puzzling because the American and Japanese don't do this. They use studs and lug nuts. I'm sure I was confused the first time I took my wheels off. If you don't use this I couldn't imagine putting the wheels back on by yourself. I would become a two person job to try to line of the wheels and get the first bolt screwed in.

I'm not sure what the advantage is, or why the Germans do it this way. I've never worked on a Italian or British car, so I don't know if they are similar.

schalliol

Took a trip to Harbor Frieght today and got a low profile 3 ton jack, a breaker bar, and a digital torque gauge you can work through with your bar. The gauge was just over $20 with coupon and a lifetime warranty. I figure I'll use the Makita to take them off and to put them on until the first click and then use the bar and torque wrench to get it to 90 so I don't need the bar to be ratcheting. Took your advice and bought the eBay wheel guide. I'd rather keep the one that comes with the car in the trunk so I don't accidentally lose it when I need it, but it's great to know HiTEC has found it works well!

I like the idea of the Audi adapter that means you don't have to take the plastic piece out. I assume ours doesn't need the pin option. I think mine won't need the pin. What plastic coated lug socket(s) would you recommend?

This is awesome, guys!

HiTEC

It's not a bad idea to buy a spare to keep in the garage toolbox. I like that idea.

tenspeed

This is the set I have
3 Pcs 17mm 19mm 21mm Thin Wall Deep Impact Socket Set Alloy Wheel 1 2" Drive Set | eBay

schalliol

Purchased! Thanks!