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A couple of track days made a big dent in the lifespan of my brake pads and, at around 36,000 km, it was time to change them out. I priced it out at the dealer and the quote was north of Cdn$ 2K . I know they replace everything (including the rotors), but I wasn't convinced that it was necessary to go that far. I checked my rotor thickness and it was above the minimum, so I felt comfortable re-using them. I ordered new OEM pads and the anti-rattle/locating shims and set to work:
Car hoisted up and wheel removed. These are some big brakes!
You can see the worn pads here. String a long zip tie through beforehand, so that you can securely hang it once removed from the hub.
Using something to protect the caliper finish, squeeze the pads as far apart as you can. If the pistons aren't retracted all the way, you'll never get the caliper back on with new (thicker) pads.
Rather than remove the odd star-shaped bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket, simply remove the bracket itself. It's a standard hex head (21 mm, IIRC).
Once you've broken the bolt free, you should be able to remove it by hand, using just the socket for grip.
Once disconnected, securely hang the caliper from the upright.
A zip-tie will allow you freedom to twist the caliper so that you can access the innards. Several winters' worth of crud and corrosion is a feature on my car.
The cross-shaped spring (which you don't remove) keeps the pads under tension, so you'll need a couple of screwdrivers (one on each end) to slowly pry them off the support pins.
Remove the old locating shims with a flat-blade screwdriver
Can you believe the replacements for these cost more than $200?
Once the pads and shims are out, clean the excess crud out of the inside and lube the pins
Now you're ready to start putting it back together again
The support shims just press into place. Don't forget to remove the paper so that the shims can stick to the pads.
Clean the back (piston side) of the pads so that the shims adhere properly. The pads are tricky to install because of that cross-spring, but some trial-and-error will eventually yield results.
Slide the assembly back over the rotor and bolt back into place. The torque rating is provided in the instructions that come with the shims (164 N-m, or about 120 lb-ft, IIRC).
Once the caliper is bolted back up, you need to firmly apply the brakes so that the shims adhere to the pads. Finally, replace any sensor wires you may have disconnected in order to remove the caliper, bolt on your wheels and you're ready to go.
A note about the brake wear sensor: They're nominally reusable, as long as they haven't been triggered. I found that mine fell apart when removed from the pad, so I just taped over the end and zip tied it out of the way. I manually check my pad wear anyway, so it's not a big deal.
Trivia: The wear sensor is just on the driver's side. One way to save a few bucks, hey Audi?
Parts cost was a tad over Cdn $500, plus a few hours of my time. Well worth it, I would say.
Last edited by DeerHunter; 09-17-2015 at 08:28 PM.
Great write up! Thank you because I'm sure mine will need it soon (35,000 miles) and love to do this stuff myself. I might consider getting a pad that does not leave so much brake dust though.
Yeah, now i understand why the dealer charges what they charge for the service. but, this may mean that my local eurocar mechanic, whose rates are less than the dealers, should be able to take care of this when needed. anyone see any issue in not having it done by the dealer if the local guy is competent? does it void any warranties or anything like that?
Yeah, now i understand why the dealer charges what they charge for the service. but, this may mean that my local eurocar mechanic, whose rates are less than the dealers, should be able to take care of this when needed. anyone see any issue in not having it done by the dealer if the local guy is competent? does it void any warranties or anything like that?
Unless the repair is botched or the (non-OEM) parts used cause an issue, performing a service like this yourself, or at a non-dealer shop should have no effect on your warranty.
Thanks, great write-up. I might not do this myself but it's always helpful to know what's involved so one doesn't get ripped off at the shop.
One question on the shims, I remember someone on here said they were potentially re-usable if you carefully peel them off. Do you think that's the case?
Awesome write-up Thank you. Don't know how much different the procedure/parts are on an A6 from an S6, but I'm changing front rotors and brakes this weekend for first time. This post is perfect timing to give me clue on what to expect. Thanks for sharing!
One question on the shims, I remember someone on here said they were potentially re-usable if you carefully peel them off. Do you think that's the case?
There was no stick left on the shims. I suppose you could try them without a positive lock to the pads, or perhaps use a dab of silicon on each to get them to stick again.
Originally Posted by IknowHuhA6
Awesome write-up Thank you. Don't know how much different the procedure/parts are on an A6 from an S6, but I'm changing front rotors and brakes this weekend for first time. This post is perfect timing to give me clue on what to expect. Thanks for sharing!
The A6 uses a completely different caliper. Conceptually, the job is the same but the details will be different. If you have DIY experience, you should be able to get it done, I'm sure.
09-17-2015, 08:21 PM
How-to: Installing brake pads on an S6/7
. I know they replace everything (including the rotors), but I wasn't convinced that it was necessary to go that far. I checked my rotor thickness and it was above the minimum, so I felt comfortable re-using them. I ordered new OEM pads and the anti-rattle/locating shims and set to work:
