Transmission Doesn't Go Into Gear. (1998 Audi A6 DOHC)
#1
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
98" A6 DOHC Transmission Doesn't Go Into Gear
Start off at the beginning it's an automatic 98 quat a6 with dual cam.
Was driving down the road and started hearing a noise as if I was dragging something. Pulled over to check but didn't see any thing. Got in the car put it in drive car jerked and then made a loud noise there was no movement after. Checked all gears and no change not even movement when shifting. While towing(with a rope from sway bar) heard a knocking noise hit a bump and it went away. As if something was hanging on but then came apart.
When we got to the shop took a glance to see if it was leaking fluid it was but not and abundance of fluid coming out.
Dont have a Vag Com and haven't lifted the car to check and see if there is something detached. Any suggestions???
Was driving down the road and started hearing a noise as if I was dragging something. Pulled over to check but didn't see any thing. Got in the car put it in drive car jerked and then made a loud noise there was no movement after. Checked all gears and no change not even movement when shifting. While towing(with a rope from sway bar) heard a knocking noise hit a bump and it went away. As if something was hanging on but then came apart.
When we got to the shop took a glance to see if it was leaking fluid it was but not and abundance of fluid coming out.
Dont have a Vag Com and haven't lifted the car to check and see if there is something detached. Any suggestions???
Last edited by L Werick; 04-08-2017 at 07:16 PM.
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Pull the transmission and replace it or dump the car.
Start off at the beginning it's an automatic 98 quat a6 with dual cam.
Was driving down the road and started hearing a noise as if I was dragging something. Pulled over to check but didn't see any thing. Got in the car put it in drive car jerked and then made a loud noise there was no movement after. Checked all gears and no change not even movement when shifting. While towing(with a rope from sway bar) heard a knocking noise hit a bump and it went away. As if something was hanging on but then came apart.
When we got to the shop took a glance to see if it was leaking fluid it was but not and abundance of fluid coming out.
Dont have a Vag Com and haven't lifted the car to check and see if there is something detached. Any suggestions???
Was driving down the road and started hearing a noise as if I was dragging something. Pulled over to check but didn't see any thing. Got in the car put it in drive car jerked and then made a loud noise there was no movement after. Checked all gears and no change not even movement when shifting. While towing(with a rope from sway bar) heard a knocking noise hit a bump and it went away. As if something was hanging on but then came apart.
When we got to the shop took a glance to see if it was leaking fluid it was but not and abundance of fluid coming out.
Dont have a Vag Com and haven't lifted the car to check and see if there is something detached. Any suggestions???
#4
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Update
We'll it was a bolt loose six to be exact. The drive shaft on the driver side came off the transmission due to not using lock tight. Hope this can solve someone else's problem.
#5
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
#6
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
My audi has a defect i cannot use any scanner to read it ive tried many types and it always says cant read or no codes...ive even connected to an expensive scanner program and its getting the connections it needs but wont read the car.
#7
AudiWorld Super User
Bring it on by and I'll scan it with my VCDS.
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#8
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Great info. I'm going to go grab some wet sandpaper today or some time soon I'm on hold again. I don't have any vavle seal remover pliers so had to order some and the exhaust gasket that came with the kit I bought doesn't have wholes where I need them
these are my pistons one my pass side
Not too bad but want to hit them with some more carb, brake cleaner or gas. Just to get all the gunk off. I'm not to familiar with acetone but will have to try some I was thinking bout soaking the whole head with it all together valves springs etc. but my old auto instructor said to just clean it up.
Not too bad but want to hit them with some more carb, brake cleaner or gas. Just to get all the gunk off. I'm not to familiar with acetone but will have to try some I was thinking bout soaking the whole head with it all together valves springs etc. but my old auto instructor said to just clean it up.
#9
Gas, brake cleaner, acetone all are good to use to clean up junk.
I like acetone because it is a very strong dissolver and evaporates very quickly. It cuts oil and cleans surfaces better than brake cleaner IMO. The downside - it breaks down rubber and plastic parts. So, you have to be careful where you use it. I've used regular painter gloves from home depot when working on the car and they use to melt and break up... Automotive grade or nitrile gloves may handle better.
Maybe I am stating the obvious but, if you spray brake/car cleaner into the cylinders for soaking etc., you'd have to drain the pan and make sure all that stuff comes out. Finally, use gas to "rinse" and drain that out as well.
After you got it running with clean oil etc., do an oil change with filter after 50 or so miles. Or at least drain out the oil and put new oil in.
Depending on the cleaners used and where they are stuck, after oil circulation it will mix in the oil. This may not be good down the road. Again, I am over cautious and it costs some money but it's up to you.
I like acetone because it is a very strong dissolver and evaporates very quickly. It cuts oil and cleans surfaces better than brake cleaner IMO. The downside - it breaks down rubber and plastic parts. So, you have to be careful where you use it. I've used regular painter gloves from home depot when working on the car and they use to melt and break up... Automotive grade or nitrile gloves may handle better.
Maybe I am stating the obvious but, if you spray brake/car cleaner into the cylinders for soaking etc., you'd have to drain the pan and make sure all that stuff comes out. Finally, use gas to "rinse" and drain that out as well.
After you got it running with clean oil etc., do an oil change with filter after 50 or so miles. Or at least drain out the oil and put new oil in.
Depending on the cleaners used and where they are stuck, after oil circulation it will mix in the oil. This may not be good down the road. Again, I am over cautious and it costs some money but it's up to you.
Last edited by tester123; 02-05-2017 at 01:15 PM.
#10
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Seems to be mayb a scuff when felt with the hand there is no sings of buldging from a possible inside crack making its way to the surface nor can i feel a scartch/crack rynning my finger over it...
This is the deepest part of the scatch / crack worked with both of the scratches a bit more and cleaned them. Most of the scatches/cracks have become bearly seeable but nothing im as worried about now that i have checked the depth of cracks w a razor . Its just the side where the razor is now that is somewhat deeper then the rest.
As you can see the razor tip is not visible on this part of the crack/scratch but at that it isn't as bad as I thought. Sanding them a bit more and cleaning them out with the razor made the bottom of the crack more visible.
This is the deepest part of the scatch / crack worked with both of the scratches a bit more and cleaned them. Most of the scatches/cracks have become bearly seeable but nothing im as worried about now that i have checked the depth of cracks w a razor . Its just the side where the razor is now that is somewhat deeper then the rest.
As you can see the razor tip is not visible on this part of the crack/scratch but at that it isn't as bad as I thought. Sanding them a bit more and cleaning them out with the razor made the bottom of the crack more visible.