planekiller1

Recently I purchased a 2012 Audi A4 Avant Ibis white, with beige interior, S-line, advanced key, no nav so not sure about audio, but it's not B&O so I'm thinking base stereo. One owner before me who did nothing and left the car stock for 5 years and only put on 50K.

1.)
I'm looking to get more sound out of it and was wondering where to start (BOV, DV, Turbo muffler delete, something I don't know about). I have a CAI from K&N from my previous vehicle that I plan on retrofitting. Yes I know it does nothing, but I would like more sound from the turbo and engine.

A note: This car drives like it's brand new and I'm in love since I test drove it. I've always wanted an Audi since I was old enough to say car lol.

2.)
I'm looking to either replace the DV with an upgraded one or remove and replace with a BOV advice would be appreciated as I have read a lot about issues with installing it and the car running rich. (Not looking for issues here)

A not: Basically I plan on running this car till I'm 28-30 years old I'm 21 now. I have a lot of knowledge and can and will be doing everything on my own.

3.)
The timing belt will be done @75K and tranny fluid at the same time so thats what I see in the future.

4.)
Once my brakes are worn out I will be installing S4 or equivalent callipers and slotted or punched rotors.

5.)
I would love to do accu-air once the suspensions starts to wear out, but that said I want reliability since this is my daily, so I'm open to see what others have done.

Side note: (working on refinishing a '69 Ford F100 step side)

6.)
Exhaust at some point maybe a year or two from now I would like to put an e-dump after to cat (don't want SES on) So as far as exhaust it'll be kept stock as I'm tired of noise for now and this car is quiet and amazing.

7.)
Eventually when I will myself to do it I would like to add paddles meaning I'd change out the steering wheel for and S4 model or equivalent. At some point I'll get the VDCS system to make changes to the computer, but that's down the road when I find a major reason to get it.

8.)
Eventually I want to put on some nice chrome or equivalent shiny wheels that are nice and fat so I have some stance, but yet again I'm happy with the 5 post ones I have for now.

9.)
Subwoofer, already have a Rockford P3 10" for now I'll be using the box I built, but once I get back to Texas in the summer will be working on a custom one and posting all about it for a side mount in the cargo net to the right of the trunk, so its out the way (tired of taking up space as I fly RC turbine jets and need all 7' of interior length to fit it in.) but someone with knowledge of what lines I use from the stock amp (the ones to turn on the amp I have) would be appreciated.

10.)
As I find and solve issues I plan on recording and making videos or taking pictures and posting, so this will be the place for all of that. EI links and photos of issues and solutions.

A not: As you respond to these or as questions please quote the reference number so I'm not lost I know this is gonna get pretty busy or I hope it does. Been doing a lot of research, but I'd like a place that I can post all of it to. Not one particular thing.

11.)
I'm sure some are curious what it looks like so I shot some photos and video with my drone yesterday and I'll attach those.

planekiller1

Still trying to figure out this forum and how to Edit posts so while I do that here are the pictures.

diverdan72

HI,


Nice Car. I have the same one, color, etc and have done a few things so far...great platform to build on. So Far:


1) 18" rs4 wheels with pilot sport a/s3 and 18" rs6 winters with Michelin x ice
2) H & R sway bars front and rear
3) stage 2 APR software
4)034 motorsports HFC
5)awe tuning full turbo back quad tipped exhaust with awe carbon quad tip rear valence
6)Carbonio carbon CAI
7) GO FAST BITS DV
8) UPGRADED pads/slotted/drilled rotors in rear and r1 concepts 6 piston 356mm 2 piece slotted/drilled BBK for front
9)full dark tint all around


Stage 3 stuff this summer with K04 TURBO, FMIC, associated extras...almost there now but will be better than the s4 avant from euro that never came to north America. Hope it helps

diverdan72

oh...and rs4 front mesh grill including lower rs4 mesh fog light inserts...no front license plate...also all chrome blacked out like black optics package.
rs6 wheels are black
rs4 wheels are dark grey anthracite though considering making them black as well

planekiller1

Sounds like it's a nice spec, all of those options sound good, I think I'm going to have to leave the stage 2 for a while as I'm trying to make the car last and pushing the boost levels isn't really needed as the car is quick the way it is, I'm more interested in sound and engine at that. I'm trying to make it sort of subaru like and have the nice Blow Off sound, without of course the blow off as it'll mess with the mixture. Maybe someday when I can map the engine the way I want. As far as wheels I plan of home not black, not a huge fan of black, might got he opposite direction and see what white looks like. The only way white looks great to me is if you are making a black car all blacked out. As far as S4 packages I'll probably do the grill and possibly headlights, but cosmetics are for later.

planekiller1

Disclaimer: It’s your responsibility to make sure you don’t arc from the battery so Removing the battery would be the safest option, this should be taken as a guide to help you not actual instructions. Safety is your number 1 priority make sure the car is not running and that when it is the radio is off for these steps.

Today I installed my Rockford 10" 500W P3 [$150 amazon] with a massive 1200W amp [$160 local shop in Texas] from my old vehicle. Took me about 3 hours, but seemingly no one posts any specifics about the install so I thought I would.

Pull out the spare, stock sub box (unplug), remove the jack and its cubby (was a bit challenging to remove the plastic it basically just pulled out (might have a tab or two not sure), the mount for the spare tire (4x 12mm bolts holding it in), unmount the two side tie downs (2x 30 torque bit).
Picture 1 (removing everything)
Picture 2 (the wires we are looking to tap into)

So as far as the install of the amp flip the direction of the stock one on the mount and install your new one that powers the subs on the outside (keep in mind if using more than 500W RMS I’d recommend adding a fan to keep them both cool).
Picture 3 (flipping stock amp on mount remove the mount it’s 3x 10mm makes it easy).
Picture 4 (Installed new amp with tap to secure will be bolting in once I get a chance to run to Home Depot)

Next run your power and ground I chose to use the ground located in the cubby as pictured, but the battery is close and one can be run to it. On the power, I have a 100amp fuse, I’d recommend this on a 1000W or less. The fuse hides under the carpet to the left of the battery where the factory power wire runs out of the car This is the reason re removed the two tie downs as the wires will run under this (I’m using 4 gauge and it didn’t need any trimming if worried grab a dremel and sand some of the plastic away).
Picture 3 (Ground location)

The next and probably most important part is the remote wire I tapped off of the 12V outlet on the right hand side of the car as it is powered when the car is on (acc aka not running) and off when the car is not so the sub works without the car running (I don’t recommend running the sub at max as you will deplete the battery and eventually kill both the battery and alternator down the road).
Picture 5 (The 12v switched socket location)
Picture 6 (The cubby pulls out just like the left side and the cable detaches, the middle stripped one is +12 while the brown is ground. I just squished my remote wire into the +12v in the connector, but you could solder or butt connect it if you so please)

I used a LOC (line out converter) [about $15 locally since I didn’t want to wait you’ll need a SIN-35 available on Amazon for $8 prime] as I wanted to plug the stock one back in if I was carrying luggage and going on a long trip where I needed the space, but I never want to sacrifice the stock setup as it is quite good (I do not have B&O). This plugs into RCA on one end (turn the dials to about ½ to ¾ for best sound). Both the browns go to the chassis ground, black stripped ones go to the speaker ground, solid grey and white go to power wire for speaker (all wired together as this is a single signal and you need a left and right for the sub).
Picture 7 (This is where you will find the wires that run to the sub, I didn’t want all the clutter of running more wires so tapped in here)
Picture 8 (This is how I tapped in I didn’t cut just removed the insulation and directly soldered on then covered in electrical tape obviously, this could be cleaner, but it’s not seen)

There are a few ways to run the wires from the sub, I don’t like cutting unless I have too so I just kept it simple.
Picture 9 (This is the sub installed and those grey/ blue wires are the ones running to it from Picture 8)

Next you’ll need to tune the Sub and I recommend a parking lot away from anyone or thing as you need to pump up the volume (since this is just the install guide I’ll stop here you should read some guides on tuning a sub if you plan on doing it yourself or take it to a shop since you’ve already installed everything I can’t see them charging more than $20 for tuning it up for you)

planekiller1

So I finally got around to applying tint and decided on 20% all around and I like but a lot, it is harder to see at night yes, but here in Miami I'd rather save the interior and not drive around in a "Fish tank" I also converted the front door lights to LED and the ones in the Trunk, decided to leave the rear doors for a while, as I don't use them as much. Also My MMI is down what to me looks like one level as I approach 1000 miles from purchasing. I'd like to know exactly how much one movement on the MMI is measured in quarts (is it in 1/4, 1/2 or even a whole quart) as I has 1000 miles to make sure the car is mechanically sound (from fiat) and I know of the plague that these small 2.0T engines have when it comes to oil consumption. So if someone could get back to me on that it would be great as I have read around and found nothing about level vs quarts, maybe I'll have to do an oil change and drive till the MMI goes down one level so that I know how accurate it is in the future. Also reading up I've heard that Audi covers this till 80K or 8 yrs. so could I take it to them without an extended warranty? Just things it would be nice to know.

PMCC

What is the tire size and michelin load index ?

planekiller1

I'm actually not sure on these tires, hadn't put any time into new ones as the ones on there now are okay for the time being, I'll have a look this afternoon and get back to you.
Not a big fan of whatever they are as they aren't grippy and squeal like mad under hard braking and Corning. (I really want to find a track day down here in Miami and have a blast for a day so a good set would be needed for that.

I will be putting Goodyear on next as the have a really prevelant beading that will protect the rim to an extent from getting scuffs (im paranoid about hitting a curb) used to my truck where it would just skip over it and continue on without hurting anything.

Also If anyone was was wondering I found a great hitch at a lot more reasonable price out of forklift central only $280+shipping not almost $800 with shipping for the hidden variants out of the U.K. so that hunt is over and by pure luck was scrolling through a forum on here and an ad had it in the middle of the page.

PMCC

Thanks, take a picture .