Installing OEM hitch
01-20-2017, 04:29 PM
#1
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Installing OEM hitch - EDIT
Hello all, any nightmare stories? I am pretty handy with tools but i read somewhere i need a VAG COMM even with the OEM control module.
Is that true?
EDIT -
Anywhere in SOCAL where I should get it installed? Dealer wants $1000 lol
Is that true?
EDIT -
Anywhere in SOCAL where I should get it installed? Dealer wants $1000 lol
Last edited by g686; 01-23-2017 at 10:02 AM.
01-21-2017, 12:35 PM
#3
AudiWorld Super User
There is no OEM hitch per se. The entire bumper cross-bar (frame) is replaced, and the hitch receiver is a welded part on that. You also lose the right rear towing point, they are not part of the new assembly. You're expected to use the hitch as the new towing point.
01-27-2017, 07:36 PM
#5
AudiWorld Super User
The hitch [read: bumper cross-bar] module is really a dumb electronics module. It isn't as smart as a typical smartphone headset, it fails to tell the car what it is, or how it needs accommodations. So, a highly trained Audi technician (or VAGCOM) is needed to reprogram the main system computer and tell it "By the way, these settings should all be changed, there may be a trailer back there."
Yes, that could and should all be automatic when the new module is hooked up. But it isn't. Audi's claims to being technology leaders are sadly, perhaps, "So twentieth century!".
The same way that the roof cross-bars tell the ESC system "there may be a load on top!" when a really ingenious design would use load sensors to invisibly determine exactly what load was or wasn't up there.
Supposedly, the transmission is told to shift differently, the ABS and ESC probably are told to be more conservative, there's probably a list available if you're going to use VAGCOM and DIY.
Yes, that could and should all be automatic when the new module is hooked up. But it isn't. Audi's claims to being technology leaders are sadly, perhaps, "So twentieth century!".
The same way that the roof cross-bars tell the ESC system "there may be a load on top!" when a really ingenious design would use load sensors to invisibly determine exactly what load was or wasn't up there.
Supposedly, the transmission is told to shift differently, the ABS and ESC probably are told to be more conservative, there's probably a list available if you're going to use VAGCOM and DIY.
01-28-2017, 03:29 AM
#6
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The hitch [read: bumper cross-bar] module is really a dumb electronics module. It isn't as smart as a typical smartphone headset, it fails to tell the car what it is, or how it needs accommodations. So, a highly trained Audi technician (or VAGCOM) is needed to reprogram the main system computer and tell it "By the way, these settings should all be changed, there may be a trailer back there."
Yes, that could and should all be automatic when the new module is hooked up. But it isn't. Audi's claims to being technology leaders are sadly, perhaps, "So twentieth century!".
The same way that the roof cross-bars tell the ESC system "there may be a load on top!" when a really ingenious design would use load sensors to invisibly determine exactly what load was or wasn't up there.
Supposedly, the transmission is told to shift differently, the ABS and ESC probably are told to be more conservative, there's probably a list available if you're going to use VAGCOM and DIY.
Yes, that could and should all be automatic when the new module is hooked up. But it isn't. Audi's claims to being technology leaders are sadly, perhaps, "So twentieth century!".
The same way that the roof cross-bars tell the ESC system "there may be a load on top!" when a really ingenious design would use load sensors to invisibly determine exactly what load was or wasn't up there.
Supposedly, the transmission is told to shift differently, the ABS and ESC probably are told to be more conservative, there's probably a list available if you're going to use VAGCOM and DIY.
01-30-2017, 10:10 AM
#7
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
So, i installed the OEM hitch this week end.
The dealer quoted me $1000 for installation, and a local tuning shop $750.
Took me and a friend 4 hours including a trip to Home depot for some JB weld and drying time.
Step by Step-->
YOU WILL NEED:
A friend
Torx heads for your ratchets. (T5 and T7)
10mm, 12mm,17mm deep sockets.
3-5 hours depending on speed of workmanship.
Trunk:
Remove everything form your trunk
Remove trunk cargo floor, spare tire, bass box
Remove side cargo hooks, and panels holding them.
Remove both inside panels exposing wiring.
You will not be staring a the car battery
Pull out truck latch plastic thing-ama-bob but be careful to disconnect wiring clip
there are 4 nuts you will be able to access now, 2 on each side of the truck latch, and 2 more to the side. DON'T DO ANYTHING just yet to those.
Bumper:
Go behind rear tires, you will see 4 TORX screws, remove those on each side.
Remove the bottom part of the bumper by slightly pressing down on the tab from the inside,(now visible by having removed the TORX, and moving the noise wall wit your hand), and work your way all across the back
Go back to those 4 nuts i was mentioning earlier and remove them. You will need a deep socket.
Just below where the tail lights would be if the trunk was closed, when the bumper line is, POP OUt 1 pull out on each side.
No grab the bumper, jiggle a little, TILT it UP and FORWARD from the bottom, and start popping out the bumper out
Back to trunk:
There are 4 bolts tigh near/under a rectangle shape bracket that hold the impact bar.
Remove them, pull out impact bar
Insert hitch
Bolt hitch
If you have wiring for 6 pin connectro AND trailer control module:
Run wiring through hole to the right of hitch receiver
you will ned to have the car reprogrammed for this $100-150 from any tuner.
Connect your trailer control unit
Install bodywork back
FINISHED
The dealer quoted me $1000 for installation, and a local tuning shop $750.
Took me and a friend 4 hours including a trip to Home depot for some JB weld and drying time.
Step by Step-->
YOU WILL NEED:
A friend
Torx heads for your ratchets. (T5 and T7)
10mm, 12mm,17mm deep sockets.
3-5 hours depending on speed of workmanship.
Trunk:
Remove everything form your trunk
Remove trunk cargo floor, spare tire, bass box
Remove side cargo hooks, and panels holding them.
Remove both inside panels exposing wiring.
You will not be staring a the car battery
Pull out truck latch plastic thing-ama-bob but be careful to disconnect wiring clip
there are 4 nuts you will be able to access now, 2 on each side of the truck latch, and 2 more to the side. DON'T DO ANYTHING just yet to those.
Bumper:
Go behind rear tires, you will see 4 TORX screws, remove those on each side.
Remove the bottom part of the bumper by slightly pressing down on the tab from the inside,(now visible by having removed the TORX, and moving the noise wall wit your hand), and work your way all across the back
Go back to those 4 nuts i was mentioning earlier and remove them. You will need a deep socket.
Just below where the tail lights would be if the trunk was closed, when the bumper line is, POP OUt 1 pull out on each side.
No grab the bumper, jiggle a little, TILT it UP and FORWARD from the bottom, and start popping out the bumper out
Back to trunk:
There are 4 bolts tigh near/under a rectangle shape bracket that hold the impact bar.
Remove them, pull out impact bar
Insert hitch
Bolt hitch
If you have wiring for 6 pin connectro AND trailer control module:
Run wiring through hole to the right of hitch receiver
you will ned to have the car reprogrammed for this $100-150 from any tuner.
Connect your trailer control unit
Install bodywork back
FINISHED
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01-30-2017, 03:05 PM
#9
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
hahahahahahhaha, so...... before I figured out about the 4 bolts that hold the bumper in, (since the instructions only talk about 2) I started trying to "pop out" the bumper with out the ability to tilt it up and forward, and i broke 1 side of 2 tabs.
ALSO, IF YOU INTEND ON BUYING AN OEM HITCH FROM EBAY---->>>>
1) You WILL need the 4 OEM BOLTS
2) Some people try and sell hitched for 4-500 dollars as deal, it's not, the oem hitch is expensive because the trailer control module is $400.
3) If you JUST want a hitch with no wiring, make sure the hitch is no more than $300
ALSO, IF YOU INTEND ON BUYING AN OEM HITCH FROM EBAY---->>>>
1) You WILL need the 4 OEM BOLTS
2) Some people try and sell hitched for 4-500 dollars as deal, it's not, the oem hitch is expensive because the trailer control module is $400.
3) If you JUST want a hitch with no wiring, make sure the hitch is no more than $300
01-31-2017, 11:49 AM
#10
AudiWorld Member
I installed an Ebay, Curt I think, hitch in about 4 hours, alone, including the included wiring harness and adapter. Total price $280. It works perfectly and I didn't get it reprogrammed. The back-up sensors come on in reverse when towing, big deal. Not worth paying to turn them off.