tlorenzo94@gmail.com

Hey guys, sorry this is my first post, but my sister is visiting me down in FL and on the way down her friend drove the car over a median and smacked the oil pan and about everything else on the ground pretty good. I visually inspected it and nothing looks broken, just scraped to sh*t.

Some Info on the Car: If I'm missing anything needed chime in.

145k miles, 5W40 synthetic oil in it, timing belt was changed at 110k before car was bought.

I hooked up my torque app and picked up a history code code P0172 (System Too Rich Bank 1)which I read could be a number of things, however it did not pick up any current codes when I had it running in my garage. Anyway's the ticking noise is coming from the passenger side by the timing cover. It changes from a ticking/almost knock to a pinging noise around 1k rpms. Also, when they hit, her speedometer quick working apparently.

I'll try to get a pic of the underside soon. Video Attached:

tlorenzo94@gmail.com

It looks like I can't edit my post and I see the video isn't working. Is it due to my lack os post count? Sorry for the double post, but lets try this.

http://vid582.photobucket.com/albums...psml9qtpwb.mp4

tlorenzo94@gmail.com

BUMP.

Is it possible the car skipped a rib when they hit and now the timing is slightly off causing a valve to impact a piston? She said the car got hot slightly before she got down here.

Looking for any opinions here...I really don't want to have her fly back and me be stuck with this as a yard ornament....

Mister Bally

Not easy to diagnose remotely. I don't think the timing belt can be thrown by one tooth. There are too many teeth that would have be thrown on either toothed wheel.

You can remove the upper and lower timing belt covers. Then you can move the crankshat to the TDC position and see whether the camshaft toothed wheel "dot" aligns with the mark on the valve cover. Service manual required or good luck with a free youtube video which I wouldn't trust.

I'm going with either a cracked piston skirt or a snapped connecting rod bolt. You have some time before disaster strikes with those. But fair warning, these things won't heal themselves.

Check our what a snapped connecting rod bolt can cause:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/tt-...story-2901563/

tlorenzo94@gmail.com

Mister Bally,

Thank you for the reply. I understand accurate diagnosis over the internet is pretty tough. I'm an LS guy myself so I do know a bit about engines, well enough to get myself into trouble and not know how to get out at least haha.

I did some more reading about the connecting rod bolt, looks like you're not (your son?) the only one to have that issue. I can drop the pan off the car and check and make sure everything is or isn't tight downstairs after work tomorrow as that seems a little less labor intensive than checking the timing and it can't ever hurt to change the oil anyways. I'll filter the oil to see if there's any shavings as well. I'm guessing if a skirt is cracked the whole block has to come out?

I'm guessing her time is limited as she drove it 5 more hours after the incident. Here's a pic of the pan for some reference. As you can see it got scraped up pretty good along with the subframe.

tlorenzo94@gmail.com

So I started the car up tonight, the noise actually goes away once you get to 1500 rpm or so and above. Not sure if this correllates to anything.

Regardless, it looks like the car is going to need a new pan. (see pic) I suppose I could band aid it but probably best to find one from a junker.

Also, in the attached video, you can see the side to side play in the rods. Not sure if this is excessive or considered normal.



http://vid582.photobucket.com/albums...psfcrvh0nn.mp4

Prospeeder

Just remove the oil pan and look inside. Theres a baffle on some thats plastic, maybe it broke. its pretty easy to remove, maybe 30 minutes.

Mister Bally

The connecting rod play you show in the video seems normal. That oil pan isn't too bad. If you want to replace, buy a new one. ECS Tuning sells one at a reasonable price. They also sell genuine VW/Audi but their generic looks great. My son has used two of them so far.