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Instructions: How to Adjust Xenon Headlight Range using a VAG-COM

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Old 12-16-2002, 04:26 PM
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Default Instructions: How to Adjust Xenon Headlight Range using a VAG-COM

DISCLAIMER: This article is for informational purposes only. Please use at your own risk!

How to Adjust Xenon Headlight Range using a VAG-COM

I can confirm that this tweek works on an '01 TT 225 and '03 A4 Avant 1.8T. Although I have not tested it, this should work on all current Audi cars with OEM self-levelling Xenon lights.

When I recently took delivery of my '03 A4 Avant 1.8T, I noticed that the headlights were aimed too low. Foreground illumination was excellent, however I was having difficulty picking out signs further down the road. They were certainly not aimed as optimally as the Xenons on my TT (after several trips to the dealer to get it right).

When I parked the A4 alongside the wall of an industrial building at night, a sharp downwards slope was evident. The lights were aimed approximately 20-30 degrees from horizontal, too low for my taste.

Here is the procedure to adjust the vertical aim of OEM Xenons

1. Park the car on a level surface, 10 to 20 feet from a wall if possible. Connect the VAG-COM as usual, with both ignition and xenons on.
2. Select control module 55 - H. Light Range. This is somewhat hidden under "Less Common Modules"
3. Take note of the value in the Soft Coding cell. This is the headlight level as set by the dealer when they performed the PDI. If you manage to muck things up you can always go back to this default value
4. Click on "Recode - 07" and you will be able to modify this soft coding value. A smaller value aims the lights higher, and lower value aims the lights lower. Click on "Do it!" to see the lights move up or down.
5. Don't over do it. I suggest that you choose a value that still has a gentle downwards slope to avoid blinding other people on the road. I changed my original value from 00060 to 00020 and it's perfect.
6. Now you need to recalibrate the self-leveling reference point, or else you will throw a code the next time you start the car.
7. To do this, select "Basic Settings - 04" and scroll up to "Group 001". In a few seconds the first cell will change from "wait" to "set". Now scroll to "Group 002" and wait until the controller says "Learned"
8. Enjoy your improved visibility!
Old 12-16-2002, 04:28 PM
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well, that blew my earlier answer all to hell! That is way cool, I lke it.
Old 12-16-2002, 04:29 PM
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Cool tip!
Old 12-16-2002, 04:32 PM
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Joel was just telling me the same thing the other day.
Old 12-16-2002, 04:36 PM
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Default No sweat, nobody could tell me how to do it, so...>>>

I figured it out with trial and error. I hope other people find it useful!
Old 12-16-2002, 04:38 PM
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Default Any chance you can tell us how to refocus them..

...into a high-energy particle beam? I'm not saying I'd use it for a weapon or anything like that. It would all be on the up-and-up...perfectly innocent don't you know....
Old 12-16-2002, 04:38 PM
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You are a brave man
Old 12-16-2002, 04:42 PM
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Default yeah.... I would like that too....

and if you could make it so that I can grab things in the distance like a UFO I would like that too...thanks
Old 12-16-2002, 04:42 PM
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Default Here's the basic schematic...all parts are at Radio-Shack

<img src="http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/8400/FCBASIC.JPG">

the flux capacitor

This is the basic design for John Bajaks Flux Capacitor. It was designed for use with a car because of the variable pulse generated from the cars engine outputed via the motor coil termanals, and the motional conductive mass of the cars hull. The values for the parts are as follows:

MC\PG = motor coil or pulse generator

R1 = 15 Ohms ( I replaced this with two 8 Ohm 50 watt Stereo pots. seems to work well as long as you dont bring the value past 15 Ohms.)

R2 = 1meg 10w

C1 = 1215 mf 250 v ( just add a bunch of caps together till you get the right value unless of course you have one of these laying around.)

Q1 = Piezo Buzzer (part num. 273-073 at Radio Shack.)

the directions for use are as follows:

# S2 Closed = forwards in time
# S2 Open = backward in time
# R1 = Past time speed - the more resistance the faster you move through time
# R2 = Future time speed - the less resistance the faster you move through time
Old 12-16-2002, 04:48 PM
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Hey Garrett, want to help me adjust mine?


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