Oil pan replacement - help appreciated
02-23-2007, 07:43 AM
#13
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Have you tried replacing the drain plug and washer?
Like MCPaudiTT - DEFCON 1 was saying earlier that is what actually makes the seal. One grain of sand pinched between the washer and pan can put a small blemish in the pan and washer causing the leak, if you have replaced the drain plug and washer, try cleaning up the sealing surface on the pan. Use some emery cloth wrapped around a piece of wood so you will have a smooth flat surface to remove any burs from the pan. This should fix you right up.
02-23-2007, 08:04 AM
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If the Plug will not hold Audi's torque specs it is most likely stripped.
Knowing Jiffy Lube has touched your car, the plug is most likely stripped, but they could have also tightened the plug down with out wiping the dirt off of the sealing surfaces. If you are able to torque it to spec (37lb-ft) then it is the seal, if not you are probably looking at an oil pan. I've had good success with Helicoils for a repair of this nature though. No point in replacing it if you can fix it.
02-23-2007, 11:40 AM
#20
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Time-sert.
Much better than heli-coils.
http://www.timesert.com/
If you want to do it yourself, you need a kit for an M14x1.5
aircooled.net will rent you the tool if you buy the insert from them. $25 + 2. You might want to ask how deep their inserts are, since they sell them for AC engines. Ours uses a 22mm long drain plug.
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=TZE0025&cartid=
http://www.timesert.com/
If you want to do it yourself, you need a kit for an M14x1.5
aircooled.net will rent you the tool if you buy the insert from them. $25 + 2. You might want to ask how deep their inserts are, since they sell them for AC engines. Ours uses a 22mm long drain plug.
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=TZE0025&cartid=