You might be able to fix it in place, before it gets bad enough to require removing it...
While changing the oil today, I noticed that several of the rivets that hold the 2 halves of the air pump body together were in the process of disintegrating.
The heads had separated from the rivet body, probably from vibration when the pump runs, allowing the halves of the air pump to begin to separate. Three were shot. Here's a closeup
I pushed the rivets out of the housing by inserting a sheet metal screw from the broken side and pushing a bit... the rivets emerged from the other side enabling me to pry them out. The rivets are the same diameter as #8 screws. I found 1.5" stainless steel replacements at Home Desperate; they fit perfectly.
I was able to replace the 2 lower rivets... using a bit of Loc-tite. There's still a broken one but it's too hard to reach. Hopefully this will keep the pump body together, reducing stress on the other rivets. Here's a pic, once repaired.
Stupid cost-cutting measure... the screw & nut option would only cost a few cents more than the rivets during manufacture, but if the rivets fail, it costs like $400-600 in labor and parts to replace the air pump.
Anyway, take a peek next time you're poking around down there. Save the money for mods.
Yipes, I just changed my oil..... how many miles on your TT? I don't want to crawl under again.
Farthest North modded TTQC in all the world.... Borla, Forge 6 (washer modded )DV, ABT Chip, Bilsteins, UUC springs, Neuspeed rear bar, SFC Sunroof, Bird armrest, Euro mirrors, shift light, 3M headlight protectors, TT stem caps, black front Audi rings, mud flaps, Invica-Shield on front, Yokos in winter, cedar bed, Westie, S4 (Tip) (In reserve)PS2 for training, DenBo shift boot conversion, MKI front end (re-installed), Raffi shift ****, shift ring badge, gauge pack, 3.2 type rear valance, TTDA , DG Sigma, Mintex Reds, ****, Schwing Thing Cupholder, Boost Machine, DEFCON"s on shelf. ModShack grab bar. No Mo Mods, unless they have purpose, or unless Steve tells me I need them. Flatbed club member since 2000
Re: you'll only be able to access the bottom 3 with the pump in the car...
Actually, you can replace all 6 rivets without removing the pump from the car.
I removed the intercooler crosspipe to gain working room.
1) Remove the two plastic hoses and the electrical connection,
2) Remove the 3 10mm nuts from the rubber isolated mounting studs,
3) I found it easier to remove the mounting studs from the pump with a 17mm wrench so I could rotate the pump freely,
4) using a 5/32 drill bit I removed the old rivets,
5) I replaced then with 6 M4x1.5" long machine screws, using 2 washers and a nylock nut on each,
In the words of Robert Bentley... installation is reverse of removal.