Very puzzling 17800 P1392 code - desperately need help/advice
04-13-2006, 07:58 AM
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Very puzzling 17800 P1392 code - desperately need help/advice
Alright. Let me preface this by saying I am a complete noob. Please excuse the long description, but I really really need help.
Just bought used B5 A4 2.8 Q (1999). 82 k miles - went in for a timing belt and cam seal replacement job. First off..i paid a lot($2600).
Got the car back with a rough idle, lost power especially at low revs, and rumbling/gargling sounds from the engine. There was also a CEL returning these codes:
17799 P1391 Camshaft Pos.Sensor,Bank2 Short to Ground
17800 P1392 Camshaft Pos.Sensor,Bank2 Open Circ./Short to B+
Mechanic checked the belts to make sure timing was correct, and we replaced the cam sensor with a brand new one. The CEL is still coming back on and the engine problems continue.
Mechanic is at a total loss.
Do you guys have any idea what it could be?
Just bought used B5 A4 2.8 Q (1999). 82 k miles - went in for a timing belt and cam seal replacement job. First off..i paid a lot($2600).
Got the car back with a rough idle, lost power especially at low revs, and rumbling/gargling sounds from the engine. There was also a CEL returning these codes:
17799 P1391 Camshaft Pos.Sensor,Bank2 Short to Ground
17800 P1392 Camshaft Pos.Sensor,Bank2 Open Circ./Short to B+
Mechanic checked the belts to make sure timing was correct, and we replaced the cam sensor with a brand new one. The CEL is still coming back on and the engine problems continue.
Mechanic is at a total loss.
Do you guys have any idea what it could be?
04-13-2006, 05:58 PM
#5
Ok, wait...couple of things come to mind.....
1) 2600 bucks for a belt, tensioners, water pump and seals????????? OMFG, I could retire in 5 years charging those rates.
Ok, sorry....a bit of a rant. Don't want to make you feel bad here.
anyway...
2) was the car doing this before the job?
If not, then I really belive there is a cam timing problem. Did the shop do it right, using the correct cam holder tool?
See, here's my wild-***-guess:
It sounds to me like the engine was rotated around when it shouldn't have been. When the belt job is done correctly, the crankshaft is held in place by a special tool, a crank-pin to keep the crankshaft from moving. Also, both exhaust cams (and intake cams held in place by the chain) are also locked in place by the cam holder. If this wasn't done and the crank got rotated somehow, then you'll experience a problem like you're experiencing now, which is a loss of compression. (again, just an educated guess).
Also, in my experience, if the valve timing is off, you'll get a cam sensor code.
Make sure.....somehow.....that the cam timing is dead-nuts on. Then make sure that you have no less than 110 psi of compression in each cylinder, with no deviation greater than 44psi.
Ok, sorry....a bit of a rant. Don't want to make you feel bad here.
anyway...
2) was the car doing this before the job?
If not, then I really belive there is a cam timing problem. Did the shop do it right, using the correct cam holder tool?
See, here's my wild-***-guess:
It sounds to me like the engine was rotated around when it shouldn't have been. When the belt job is done correctly, the crankshaft is held in place by a special tool, a crank-pin to keep the crankshaft from moving. Also, both exhaust cams (and intake cams held in place by the chain) are also locked in place by the cam holder. If this wasn't done and the crank got rotated somehow, then you'll experience a problem like you're experiencing now, which is a loss of compression. (again, just an educated guess).
Also, in my experience, if the valve timing is off, you'll get a cam sensor code.
Make sure.....somehow.....that the cam timing is dead-nuts on. Then make sure that you have no less than 110 psi of compression in each cylinder, with no deviation greater than 44psi.
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