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Meguiar's
#3 #7 #9 and #26
By: Jeff Doyle
Email: boscoj@dnai.com
(Nov-01)
Make & model of car the product was used on: 2000
S4(pearl), 1999 F355 F1, 1995 SL300, 1988 Jetta GLI
Product Description: #3 Machine Glaze, #7 Showcar Glaze,
#9 Swirl Remover, #26
High Tech Yellow Wax and Meguiar's Hi-Tech Finesse Polishing
pad.
I have been using these products for about 12 years now and find they produce
consistent results every time. I was factory trained by Meguiar's so I am
biased. 3M makes basically the same products but the bottles are so big I end up
wasting product.
First of all I want to specify that the finishes I'm talking about here are
either new or like new. Little or no oxidation, few visible scratches or swirl
marks, clearcoat or solid.
The products involved are all Meguiar's products. #3 Machine Glaze, #7 Showcar
Glaze, #9 Swirl Remover, #26 High Tech Yellow Wax. I prefer pure carnauba but it
is sometimes hard to find. Mother's used to make a great carnauba but I don't
know if they still do. Most of these products you can get at a well stocked
Kragen's but I prefer to buy from small body/paint supply stores. The primary
reason is that few Kragen's carry the Hi-Tech (foam) Polishing pad.
The only other products involved are a Black & Decker model 6138
7"/9" Electronic Sander/Polisher, some well washed white bath towels
from Costco, some "padless" type diapers from Toys R Us, a teaspoon of
cornstarch and some good quality (3M) 1/2" and 1 1/2" masking tape.
The masking tape is the other good reason to buy it from a paint shop.
Kragen will charge you $8.00 for a $2.75 roll of tape.
So a bit about how I use these products. The polisher is very important. If you
are not experienced with a buffer this procedure is NOT for you. This polisher
has a variable electronic speed control that is adjustable from 1000-3000 rpm. I
keep mine on 1000 always. No matter how much or how little pressure is applied
the rpm's stay at what you set. Snap-On and Craftsman make similar models but
the Snap-On will set you back about 500 bones.
The pad. On new finishes or like new finishes I only use the Meguiar's foam
"finesse" pad. Save those wool cutting pads for the beater. I have and
use two pads at all times. One for cleaning/cutting and one for polishing/swirl
removal.
I get two bottles of #7 Show Car Glaze. I take about an ounce out of one bottle
and set it aside or use it on something. I add one level teaspoon of cornstarch
and a few spare nuts or bolts to later aid in mixing. "Shake Well". I
mark this one clearly CUT or I just keep shaking the bottles till I find one
with some nuts rattling around in the bottom.
I wash and dry the car, tape off all the seams, rubber and trim. Don't do the
windows they come last.
I go around lightly with the #7 with cornstarch at 1000 rpm.
Some people use #3 but I like the #7/cornstarch mix because it is easier to get
off.
I take that off then using my #9 only pad go around with #9 at 1000 rpm taking
off each section as I finish buffing it.
Then I hand rub with straight #7 and a soft wash cloth.
I apply the #7 lightly to one side of the cloth then fold it up and squeeze out
the clear oils. Taking off the tape as I go I rub in small circles, then cross
ways and finish up long ways.
Leave the #7 on the car until the car is totally covered in the clear oil. I
then go around and hit all the rubber with a 50/50 mix of Armour All/Water.
Now the car should look like hell. Good. Now you take your well washed bath
towels and remove all the oil and armour all from the car. Get it really clean
because wax is next.
With the #26 wax go around with a light coat until the car is covered. As soon
as you're done buff with bath towels. Go around with a soft tooth brush and a
diaper and get all the wax out of the cracks. If you find some old wax or dirt
squirt the toothbrush with the armour all and
scrub it out then buff clean.
For windows I use the diapers and warm water. I use one wet diaper and one dry
one. If you have allot of scum or smoke film you can add some alcohol. The guy
who taught me all this says, "Windex is designed to make your windows
dirty" and quite frankly I think he's right. Roll down the windows about 4
inches so you can clean the inside and the outside at the same time. Roll the
windows up and do the insides and outsides.
Buff up the wheels and your car should look better than new.
I am working on I longer more detailed version that I may post if there is any
feedback.
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