Step 6: Finally, the switch goes in!

Remember the "L-shaped" console piece shown in Step 3-g? That's where I wanted to place the switch, so I felt down to where the switch would be in the best position and marked it, then took the console piece out.

a) Drill a hole where the switch is to go:




b) Pass the switch from behind the trim piece with one nut and a washer, then tighten down the front side with another washer and another nut:




c) Here's the rear side of the switch in its final place:



I do recommend covering the back of the PCB with some hot glue or electrical tape to avoid shorting any leads.


d) On the wire bundle that came out from behind the dash in Step 3-g, connect each lead to a male connector which is the counter-part of the female connector setup in Step 5-h (make sure to remember your color-coding now!) then connect the wires together, keeping in mind which one is which (in my case it was easy, since I made sure to use the same colors on both ends):




e) Reinstall the left L-shaped center console piece:



f) From the right side, this is how it looks like "behind-the-scenes" (the right-side L-shaped trim piece was first removed):




g) Make sure the wires don't interfere with the console cover as it slides into its open position:




h) Replace the right L-shaped trim piece, and Voil? - you are done!!!




i) Here's how the switch looks like looking at it from the hand-brake level (now you see me):




j) and from the driver's eye-level (now you don't!):





Now I notice a big difference in sound between the low RPM ranges mentioned above, especially around 2000 RPM.

The best news about this essentially "free" mod is: you gain about 7 HP and 5 ft-lbs of torque!!
Check out this post from the R32 forum from a guy who did a couple of dyno runs to compare the different switch modes.

Thanks again to all the R32 pioneers who made this happen!!!
-Marc

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