|Tech Article Title
|Hardwiring a Valentine 1 Radar Locator
These instructions will help you hard wire your V1 radar locator, or any radar detector for that matter. Once hard wired, your radar detector will be powered only when the ignition is on, as opposed to all the time if you used the cigarette lighter power source.
You will be using the #27 rear wiper fuse slot to power the V1. Click here for a picture. If you have an Avant, this slot will be filled, and you will have to follow the Avant instructions below. The #27 fuse slot is empty, and if you look into it, you will see the contact for the positive power supply. You will be using the direct wire power adapter that came with V1 to wire your V1. Attach a spade connector to the end of the positive wire of the direct wire power adapter, and plug that into the #27 fuse slot (make sure you plug it into the side of the fuse slot that has the positive contact in it). Attach an O-ring type connector to the end of the ground wire of the direct wire power adapter. Now find a place to attach the V1 ground. I used the bolt that is just below the fuse panel.
Once you have your power and ground wires set up, you now need to mount the direct wire power adapter. The direct wire power adapter comes with some velcro for mounting. I mounted the direct wire power adapter just above the fuse panel, on a flat aluminum surface that faces towards the driver.
Now you can run the V1 straight power cord from the direct wire power adapter up through the A-pillar, and along the top edge of the windshield. When running power lead up the A-pillar, go along the door side, between the A-pillar and the rubber weather-strip. Makes installation easy. At top of A-pillar stuff wire in along top of A-pillar trim piece toward the windshield.
I mounted my V1 just left of my rear view mirror. If you also choose to mount your V1 at the top of your windshield, you will run the power cord up the A-pillar, and across the top of the windshield. One problem that you will run across is that the wire will not stay up under the headliner due to the gap between the headliner and windshield being too large. To remedy this, I wrapped some electrical tape loosely, sticky side out, at several locations of the wire. The tape on the wire will make the wire thinker at that spot, so it will not fall out of the headliner. Having the sticky side out will also help keep the wire in the headliner.
Now you are ready to enjoy the feeling of driving an Audi above 65mph without the worry of those pesky points on your license.
Side note: When I first installed my V1 in my cigarette lighter, I found that whenever I used the horn or windshield washers, the V1 would make a siren noise. This is do to the power drain on the fuse would confuse the V1. Once I hard wired my V1 to it's own fuse, the problem ended.
AVANT POWER SOURCE INSTURCTIONS
By Ray Calvo
1) I have an Avant; as you noticed, could find no spare socket. I used what I will term a "piggy-back" fuse unit - this plugs into a standard fuse socket, then has one circuit that operates just like original, with a fuse. Also has a parallel circuit with it's own fuse and power output lead for use on new accessory. Only thing to do was to find which side of the fuse connection is the "hot" side, and plug in adapter so that its common power tap-off side uses the "hot" power.
2) When running power lead up the A-pillar, go along the door side, between the A-pillar and the rubber weather-strip. Makes installation easy. At top of A-pillar stuff wire in along top of A-pillar trim piece toward the windshield.
3) I didn't use the V1 power adapter; I cut off plug and ran wires directly to ground and hot lead. Your way might be better; those leads are awful thin for soldering.
4) At point where I wanted to have wire stop following windshield and hang loose for connection to detector, I found had to securely hold wire at this point. I don't think electrical tape will hold well or for too long (my experience is that this stuff loosens over time). I used a dab of clear weather-strip compound called "GOOP" to hold the wire in place at this point.