Tech Article Title Author Date
2.7T Timing Belt Replacement RMcQ 2005

B18. Remove 7x T-45 torx through impact absorbers and lock carrier. You can see three of them in this picture:



B19. Lift on whole lock carrier and slide it outward a few inches. Have something to support it with as it is fairly heavy. Now hinge it left a little bit like it is a gate. Be careful not to stress the hoses or connections. Just make enough room that you can work behind it. Figure out a good way to support it there for a while.





C - Remove serpentine belt and accessories

C1. Remove fan. It has reverse threads. If you have the special chopsticks tool this is easy. I figured out a way to improvise that was not too difficult either.

C2. Detension the serpentine belt tensioner using a 17mm socket. As you turn the ratchet to relieve tension pin the tensioner open with a small screwdriver or other suitable tool. Leave the tensioner and pin in place for now.



C3. Remove the serpentine belt.

C4. Remove both hard plastic intake pressure lines. Each has 3x hose clamps (2x ends plus 1x BPV) and 1x 10mm bolt.

C5. Remove the serpentine belt tensioner with 10mm allen socket but be sure to keep it pinned as you remove it and sit it aside. If you lose the tension it will fall apart and be impossible to put back together from what I understand.

D - Remove Timing Belt and accessories

D1. Remove driver side Timing Belt (TB) cover with 3x 5mm allen

D2. Remove passenger side TB cover with 2x 5mm allen.

D3. Remove center TB cover with 2x clip (pry off.)

D4. Using a big socket turn the crank to top dead center (TDC) using the reference mark provided.



When you get the mark lined up on the crank pulley take a look at the wing like brackets on the outside of the cam sprockets. If the larger holes are OUTBOARD as in this picture you are not at TDC and the cam lock bar will not fit on this way.



If your cam "wings" look like above rotate the crank another entire rotation and line the mark up again. You will now be at TDC.

D5. Install cam lock bar. [you could get away without this special tool if you are especially careful and make numerous reference marks on the cams to be sure that you get them exactly where they are supposed to be. There is no 1 tooth margin of error. It needs to be right.]



D6. Mark the harmonic balancer so you know which way it goes (probably not 100% necessary as it has its own mark, but what the heck) and remove it from the end of the crank shaft.

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