Well I finally had the chance over the past couple of days to attack my overheating problem. Here are a few pics to give anyone attempting to do this job some reference. The procedure is more or less like the B5, outlined in this excellent write-up in the Tech section. There are some differences between the B5 and B6, however that I've noted in the photos below. Nevertheless, Andy's article on this subject is very helpful, I just wished I was more detailed taking photos to do a full write up.

Thanks to "diagnosticator1" for his help in diagnosing my problem as well as for his posts on how to adjust the pulley and tensioner. This is a full days job so be prepared for some fun wrenching.

These are the new and old thermostat. The most recent part has the suffix "K" on the part no. I think mine was in good shape but I started here to see if it would solve my problem:



Here is the Lock Carrier peeled back away from the car. Note the ac radiator is layed down below the front of the car beneath a sheet of cardboard. This is different that the B5 which can be positioned to the right of the car. Note also the dual IC setup and JJ TIP (I love this set up!):



Here is a pic before the TB covers are removed. Note that I found it helpful to remove the single accessory belt by taking off the alternator while holding the tensioner (things are real tight without doing so). Also you need to remove this to access the electronic thermostat which is different on the B6 compared to the mechanical one of the B5. Make sure you have replacement o-rings for the t-stat as well as metal pipe that connects to it. The latter one leaked after installing the new t-stat (you can replace these parts without removing the Lock Carrier), there is a good write up on this by "Matt Devo" here.



With the TB covers removed you have this (note: the accessory belt tensioner is removed first). My red marks indicate what you have to adjust after you get the new TB and the pulley/tensioner installed. Reference "diagnosticator1" helpful instructions.

Note that the cam sprocket CAN MOVE after you remove the belt and pulley, so BE CAREFUL to line up TDC on the sprocket mark well, and also mark the crank sprocket. My cam gear moved by one belt tooth due to camshaft spring pressure. It also helps to relieve internal engine cylinder pressure by removing the spark plugs:



This is what the front of the engine looks like when the water pump is removed. It takes some muscle and pulling to free this unit. Also, one will note that the timing belt is used to run this pump on the AMB engine, different than on the B5 1.8T:



And here was my problem, the dreaded plastic impeller "gone south" scenario. I had only 60,000 mi on my engine when this went bad. The TB and accessory belts looked very good, and had at least another 30,000 miles of use on them:



This is a major job but not to difficult for the technically inclined. Probably a 7 out of 10 difficulty factor. Just go slowly, and make sure you don't have any left over parts when you sew it back up!

Note: All disclaimers apply if you want to do this yourself. Wrench at your own risk, but have fun doing it! ;-)

Cheers,
1/4 scale