|Tech Article Title
Mono-6 install on B5 S4
one side of the kit (L to R):
- Goodridge DOT brake line with red sleeve.
The sleeve keep dirt and grime from getting between the braided stainless
sleeve and the Teflon tube.
- StaSis floating mounting hat and endurance
racing rotor. For this car we used the 14" monster! This is the same
quality rotor that you would see on 24 hour endurance racing
- Alcon MonoBlock six piston caliper. Hard to see but this caliper
has dual built in bridges and dust seals (more on this later).
- High quality street-able pads. IMO, with such a big rotor you do not have to run
a very aggressive pad. i.e. if you had OEM rotors you would have to run a
very aggressive pad that operates at very elevated temps. In this case a
less radical pad can be used due to the better cooling on the mango
- Two high grade Allen headed bolts with "Schnor" locking washers
- Two spacers (used with the 14" kit)
- Sexy StaSis caliper bracket
This shows hub
area with all factory brake hardware removed. (This car had a popular
stage 3 Porsche based kit... Was removed for better performance-nuff
I have found that
using vacuum caps to keep the fluid from leaking out really helps to keep
the mess to a minimum.
To install the big rotors you will
need to remove the snow/splash shield. Due to the slotted rotors this
shield has minimal functionality. The slots allow the water/snow to escape
easily, not to mention that the rotor will run cooler.
If this rotor
was not slotted the braking would be a bit scary whenever the rotors got
wet. At least until they were wiped clean.
The rust should be removed to give a
nice flat surface. Than I like to use some anti-seize paste like this
excellent product. This will make future service very easy.
I like to use Loctite on all
threaded fastener for 2 reasons.
1. It is a locking feature. Not
important here as the bolt has a built in locking feature.
2. It seals
the thread against water and corrosive brake dust. It will be easier to
remove down the road.
Installing and torquing on the
StaSis caliper mounting bracket. Check out my sexy torque
The beauty is
in the details. This is a really nice and simple floating rotor and hat
assembly. Much time and development went into making this package
vibration free at ANY reasonable temp.
CU1100 (good for 2000 degrees F) anti-seize on the back of the pads. Learned this trick from some Volvo
techs as a way to stop Volvo brakes from squealing! Make sure not to
get this on any of the friction surfaces!
Have seen some techs use CV
grease, this will work short term, but has a low temperature threshold
relative to use on brakes.
Mount the rotor. I use a couple
of lugs to hold it in place. Than mount the calipers using the spacers,
bolts and locking washers.
Six piston money shot. These
calipers have a very interesting and unique AFAIK dust shield system.
There is the main piston seal that works with the hydraulic pressure to
allow piston movement. There is another low tension o-ring dirt/dust
scraper that keeps dirt away from the main seal. This system is superior
to a conventional dust boot in a few ways:
1. Seal is located within
caliper to prevent heat from pads from damaging it.
2. Dust boots have
been know to become brittle and torn within a year if the pads temperature
are high enough
the brake hose with the bracket this way. When I turned the wheel from
lock to lock was not able to get a comfortable distance from the
Found that I
could loosen the 10mm headed bolt, and bend the bracket to give a better
angle. Please try to turn the steering from lock to lock to ensure no
binding and clearance on ALL parts. THESE ARE YOUR BRAKES!
Bleeding mono6 Alcon caliper is like
any 4 or six piston caliper. There is an inner and outer bleed valve per
caliper. I use a pressure bleeder, as I am not happy with the old pump
method. Pumping the pedal beyond normal travel can hurt the piston seal in
the master cylinder.
This car had factory S8 wheels for
a stealthy look. Compared to the previous "Stage 3" brake kit that was on
the car this system has MUCH better feedback for the driver. No pedal
pulsation when hot. And gets the babes.
Feel free to email me with
any questions as I am very happy to offer to our community this excellent
Attn: Brake Gurus, If I have missed
anything please email me. I will edit this to include any relevant details
or information missed!
Please take note that w/o the
splash shield the wheel speed sensor is close to the rotor. For almost all
sane use this does not seem to be a problem. If the car is a serious track
car 4-6 inches of Goodridge TEXTALU or FLAMEGUARD should be used to
protect from heat.
Please let me know at the time of purchase and I can
arrange to have it included.