Help with a 2007 A3
05-22-2016, 02:35 PM
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Help with a 2007 A3
I'm new to this and I don't normally ask for help but this has me confused. I have a 2007 A3 it seems to run good (but has no power) idles fine, I checked for codes and it has 3. P0234, P0507, P0171. Which one do i start with? I can reset the codes and it has a but load of power but then it goes into a limp mode and I get the 3 codes.Someone please help me
05-28-2016, 06:55 PM
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Start with the p0171 code. You need to find out why you are running lean. If you do not have access to a smoke tester, make a boost leak tester and use soapy water to find out if you have a leak somewhere. If so, repair the leak, clear codes, and see what comes back.
of you have any more questions feel free to shoot me a PM.
hope this helps, Connor
of you have any more questions feel free to shoot me a PM.
hope this helps, Connor
07-28-2016, 07:17 AM
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Start with the p0171 code. You need to find out why you are running lean. If you do not have access to a smoke tester, make a boost leak tester and use soapy water to find out if you have a leak somewhere. If so, repair the leak, clear codes, and see what comes back.
of you have any more questions feel free to shoot me a PM.
hope this helps, Connor
of you have any more questions feel free to shoot me a PM.
hope this helps, Connor
Occasionally it stalls at stop lights/signs.
I'm sure I can make a tester from PVC, a schrader valve and use a compressor but where is the best place to connect it ?
Can I also spray carb cleaner around the hoses to see when the engine idle goes up ? (although I'd rather not be that guy on you tube setting fire to his car)
Appreciate your input.....
08-01-2016, 07:39 AM
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You can do the ol carb cleaner spray trick, but i never recommend it due to possible fire hazard. I have never had a car catch on fire on me from doing it..
The boost leak tester is most useful connected from the boot behind the MAF, and the capped end on the pipe leading to the throttle body. You might have good luck leaving the boot connected to the throttle body and just capping the end on the MAF. that way you can leak thest the whole manifold and everything. It will be best to use soapy water to see where it bubbles. NO MORE THAN 5psi needed to find a leak.
The boost leak tester is most useful connected from the boot behind the MAF, and the capped end on the pipe leading to the throttle body. You might have good luck leaving the boot connected to the throttle body and just capping the end on the MAF. that way you can leak thest the whole manifold and everything. It will be best to use soapy water to see where it bubbles. NO MORE THAN 5psi needed to find a leak.
08-01-2016, 08:03 AM
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You can do the ol carb cleaner spray trick, but i never recommend it due to possible fire hazard. I have never had a car catch on fire on me from doing it..
The boost leak tester is most useful connected from the boot behind the MAF, and the capped end on the pipe leading to the throttle body. You might have good luck leaving the boot connected to the throttle body and just capping the end on the MAF. that way you can leak thest the whole manifold and everything. It will be best to use soapy water to see where it bubbles. NO MORE THAN 5psi needed to find a leak.
The boost leak tester is most useful connected from the boot behind the MAF, and the capped end on the pipe leading to the throttle body. You might have good luck leaving the boot connected to the throttle body and just capping the end on the MAF. that way you can leak thest the whole manifold and everything. It will be best to use soapy water to see where it bubbles. NO MORE THAN 5psi needed to find a leak.
Should I just remove the MAF and plug this kind of leak tester in its place ?
Do I need to plug the hole in the airbox as well.....I'm assuming I do or I'll pump air through the system and out through the airbox.
08-01-2016, 09:13 AM
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If you make that piece, and place in the pipe where the maf would be, it will pressureize the whole engine. Do not exceed 5psi. once you have it all set up with the engine pressurized, used a spray bottle with soapy water to see where the leak is. It is basically doing the same thing a smoke tester would do. This is the best and cheapest way to diagnose a p0171 code at home without all the expensive stuff shops use.
When performing the test above, make sure your checking and spraying EVERYTHING to be 100% sure where the problem is. Could be something simple like a throttle body gasket, or could be as much as an intake manifold gasket. If it does turn out to be the intake manifold gaskets leaking, I recommend replacing the whole plastic intake, because they are prone to throw a code for the intake manifold runner control, and I replace them all the time.
If you think the leak is more of a high pressure type of leak, you cap off the intake boot where it meets the manifold and pressurize that part to what your turbo would boost at, so for example, my car would be 11psi. So I use my boost leak tester to 11psi using a pressure regulator on my air line going into my boost leak tester. Then I use soapy water to spray all the connections to find where my boost leak is. The code for a boost leak would say something like "pressure drop between turbocharger and intake manifold"
When performing the test above, make sure your checking and spraying EVERYTHING to be 100% sure where the problem is. Could be something simple like a throttle body gasket, or could be as much as an intake manifold gasket. If it does turn out to be the intake manifold gaskets leaking, I recommend replacing the whole plastic intake, because they are prone to throw a code for the intake manifold runner control, and I replace them all the time.
If you think the leak is more of a high pressure type of leak, you cap off the intake boot where it meets the manifold and pressurize that part to what your turbo would boost at, so for example, my car would be 11psi. So I use my boost leak tester to 11psi using a pressure regulator on my air line going into my boost leak tester. Then I use soapy water to spray all the connections to find where my boost leak is. The code for a boost leak would say something like "pressure drop between turbocharger and intake manifold"
08-01-2016, 10:05 AM
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If you make that piece, and place in the pipe where the maf would be, it will pressureize the whole engine. Do not exceed 5psi. once you have it all set up with the engine pressurized, used a spray bottle with soapy water to see where the leak is. It is basically doing the same thing a smoke tester would do. This is the best and cheapest way to diagnose a p0171 code at home without all the expensive stuff shops use.
When performing the test above, make sure your checking and spraying EVERYTHING to be 100% sure where the problem is. Could be something simple like a throttle body gasket, or could be as much as an intake manifold gasket. If it does turn out to be the intake manifold gaskets leaking, I recommend replacing the whole plastic intake, because they are prone to throw a code for the intake manifold runner control, and I replace them all the time.
If you think the leak is more of a high pressure type of leak, you cap off the intake boot where it meets the manifold and pressurize that part to what your turbo would boost at, so for example, my car would be 11psi. So I use my boost leak tester to 11psi using a pressure regulator on my air line going into my boost leak tester. Then I use soapy water to spray all the connections to find where my boost leak is. The code for a boost leak would say something like "pressure drop between turbocharger and intake manifold"
When performing the test above, make sure your checking and spraying EVERYTHING to be 100% sure where the problem is. Could be something simple like a throttle body gasket, or could be as much as an intake manifold gasket. If it does turn out to be the intake manifold gaskets leaking, I recommend replacing the whole plastic intake, because they are prone to throw a code for the intake manifold runner control, and I replace them all the time.
If you think the leak is more of a high pressure type of leak, you cap off the intake boot where it meets the manifold and pressurize that part to what your turbo would boost at, so for example, my car would be 11psi. So I use my boost leak tester to 11psi using a pressure regulator on my air line going into my boost leak tester. Then I use soapy water to spray all the connections to find where my boost leak is. The code for a boost leak would say something like "pressure drop between turbocharger and intake manifold"
I have the 3.2 NA engine, not the turbo.
Can I still connect this to where the MAF was, my other question also remains, since the MAF is in the middle of a 3" pipe (or 2.5") and this home made PVC cap only caps one side when I remove the MAF how do I close off the other side, presumably the exit from the airbox, another cap ?
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08-01-2016, 06:51 PM
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The air will only come out where the leak is. If you have a crankcase breather hose in your airbox, cap it. It wont leak anywhere else because of the valves in the engine will seal.
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