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Boost should be the same at different times, because it uses a pulse width modulated valve to maintain pressures.
High resistance can also mean corroded, or bad connection. You can get a bulb that draws the same amperage as an O2 sensor, and pin it into the connector, and see how it lights up when the car runs the heater circuit. I forget the bulb number offhand, so I am going to find out for you tomorrow. I have a bulb I use all the time when diagnosing a high resistance O2 sensor code, and its sitting in my box at work, so I'll check the number on it and let ya know... I am thinking its a 7443LL
The thing about using the bulb for diagnostics is, it uses the same amps as O2 sensor, so it should light up bright during the first 40sec or so of run time, if it does not light up bright, but appears dim, check all your wiring and connections to find the amp drop. I think its 2.2amps?? I know this method works because I had a 740i BMW recently with this issue, and found the terminal was not seated completely in the connector, barely touching.
Thanks for advice, i'll try to connect bulb for test. It looks that heater is good, but maybe something is wrong with sensor itself? I have no cats at all, cant that be a problem? Rear oxygen sensors are mounted on foulers so i dont get CEL. All the fuses for engine control unit are fine. Maybe there is problem with wires as one time i had broken wire for spar plug coil.
I have connected VAG and measured voltage for b1s1 and b2s1 it looked also fine (moving from 0,1 to 0,75volts), but strange was that in 32 block the max volume was shown 0%.
09-01-2016, 04:01 PM
