diverter valves bosch 110's vs apr R1's

Old 07-17-2007, 11:39 PM
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Default diverter valves bosch 110's vs apr R1's

i bought apr R1's not knowing i already had bosch 110's which should i use? hoppen from mtm said that apr r1's will make more heat with the alluminum design and said that apr uses their customers for their R&D which isnt cool. anybody got any suggestions?
Old 07-18-2007, 06:13 AM
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Default couple of questions.

1, if you have a properly working diverter valve, why would you change it out? In fact, why buy something when you don't know what is on the car in the first place?

2, the only way to properly test a design is to put it on a car. I'm sure APR bench tested these new DVs before putting them on customer's cars, as they'd have to pay for new turbos/engines if they didn't.

3, what made mtm the expert on DV designs? do they have a design of their own that makes them an expert and is superior to the bosch 710N?
Old 07-18-2007, 05:30 PM
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Default all i want to know is which should i go with 110vsR1

well like i said i had no idea i had bosch 110s. And i heard about the stock dv's breaking and need to be maintained, plus i had a boost leak that turned out to be coming from the tbb so at first i thought it might have been a failing dv. so i decided to get new dv's because every single person recommends new ones when your chipped and i figured the r1 seemed pretty decent but i do find that it honks sometimes. im not a audi genious i couldnt tell between the stock dv's vs the 110s they look the same beside the part numbers, so now i have two sets of dv's all i want to know is which should i run. i drove both around and they seemed to be same i think they might both honk. ive been talking to hoppen from mtm and he did bring up a good point about the r1 being aluminum and heats the air more then the plastic 110 because your heating up the cool air that already came through the intercoolers so i dont know im just asking your oppinion, you seem to know alot about the b5 s4's
Old 07-18-2007, 06:44 PM
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Default stock diverter valves don't have to be maintained. who in the world told you that?

when they fail, you replace them. as for plastic vs. aluminum and one heating up more than the other, consider that very little air goes through them, so I sincerely doubt you're going to lose/gain 50 hp because of some diverter valves (unless they are bad.)

There are tons of stage 3 cars that are running 710N diverter valves, which are similar to 110s without any issue or horsepower loss. There are several cars that are running the APR valves without any issue, either.

Now, if they are truly honking, then you have a bigger issue. Maybe run the 110s until you can have APR check the R1s? Do you have a boost gauge? Is your car holding boost? Have you pressure tested the car for boost leaks? Diverter valves do make a noise on throttle let-off, but I would assume that your exhaust is loud enough to mask those noises. (Maybe you run with the windows up and the MTM is quiet?)

Either way, run either of them but make sure they are both fine and that you have no boost leaks.
Old 07-18-2007, 07:01 PM
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Default Re: stock diverter valves don't have to be maintained. who in the world told you that?

ive never pressure tested it but im confident there isnt any boost leaks now that i have a samco tbb. no boost gauge..need to get one-where do u tap in at for these cars. But the car does boost strong and i can hear the dv's when i let off the throttle.
Old 07-19-2007, 03:44 PM
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Default boost gauge taps are usually done at the intake manifold

where do you live? maybe you should post in your regional forum to have someone listen to your dvs
Old 07-19-2007, 04:58 PM
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Default Re: boost gauge taps are usually done at the intake manifold

im in santa cruz ca
Old 07-19-2007, 06:11 PM
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Default

definitely post in the cali forums and see if someone will help
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