Christian Barrett

Hello everyone,

I just picked up a 2000 Audi A6 2.7T as a work commuter. I have a 50 minute drive both ways, & needed something comfortable. I came across this a couple of days ago. When gas is pressed at all, the car would shake and hesitate. I initially thought it was failing turbo they are original and have 187k on them. But the codes thrown by the check engine light came to be:

P1358 - Coil 2 Groud Issue
P302 - Misfire Cyl 2

So now I think its either a bad coil (does this engine have individual coils per cylinder?) or a loose ground. The loose ground would explain how it only doing the fluttering intermittently. Maybe as I go over road bumps its breaking and connecting the ground. Please help me troubleshoot this issue!

I got a quote for a new Coil as well. It's a Borg Warner E704 - PepBoys price is 58.99.
Would this be OK or is OEM the way to go if I decide to replace the coil? Thanks.

Christian Barrett

Really, no response?

ddillenger

Beru is fine, at 187k miles replace all the plugs, the boots on all the coils, and if the problem persists, replace the ICM (ignition control module) for that bank of the engine.

Christian Barrett

Seems like good advice. I cleaned the ICM's and the airbox for a start. Also swapped them to see if my misfire would move. Initially, it went away all together. Now, it starting to have mini misfires here and there.

Not quite sure what you meant by the term 'Beru' or what you are referring to with 'boots on all the coils'.

Prospeeder

its got a miss on cylinder 2, and a coil code. Sooo try swapping 2 coils around and see if the problem follows it, and then replace the coil. if no change, then swap the 2 ignition amplifiers on the airbox and see if the missfire and code jump to a different cylinder, if so than the amplifier is bad.

Prospeeder

oh and as far as OEM coils, there complete trash, aftermarkets are at least trying to fix there issues, Beru seems to be the best for the money i have found. Myles suck, STI karolyn ones absolutely are garbage. I stopped putting them in cars when every car came back in less than a month missing.

Christian Barrett

Been a few months, here's an update. Since when I switched up the Ignition Control Modules on the car the misfire migrated to cylinder 5 - this pointed at the ICM for the fault. I replaced it with a tested used one with a lot less mileage.

I had 2 different ICMs one was OEM, the other was BERU. The BERU was the one that was bad & I think the OEM is original.

The car ran absolutely fine initially. Then one night on the hotter side, I went for a grocery run into town, it ended up misfiring BAD & smoking slightly. I took it easy for the ride back. In the morning I tried it again (colder weather) and it was apparently better. Since that one time, It has had no issues. I have run VAG-COM & the codes mentioned here have gone away. I do have an EGT sensor code still. I don't think that's too big of a worry.

As for the single episode of mis-firing - I'm thinking that could be attributed to the ICM not seating properly. The reason the ICMs are on the air box is for cooling with the fresh cold induction air, & if you take apart the air box you will see a heat sink with cooling fins on the inside. That heat sink must mate up well with your ICMs & have even pressure. I put it on in a hurry before work. I think the thermal paste hadn't set in to the gaps since it wasn't exactly a machined mirror surface on both ends. I went back and tightened the bolts holding it down as well in cross pattern for even distribution. I didn't use a torque wrench but I tightened as much as I could just using my finger and thumb on just the socket. Over tightening could EASILY ruin the ICM and make the contact surface uneven.

I recommend anyone having similar problems just take their original and re-seat it to the heat sink using new thermal paste first. If there is warping visible to the eye I might even sand it down slightly and bring to a fine grit re-apply thermal paste & re-seat before scrapping the ICM.