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How to fix an EGT sensor for good

How to fix an EGT sensor for good

 
Old 06-19-2014, 12:18 PM
  #11  
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Ordered a couple sets from Sid...
After payment, I've had no replies to updates, however it's only been 7 days.

Hope they're on the way!
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:29 PM
  #12  
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All shipping is completed.
Sometimes I have little time or I'm out of Polish.
Sometimes I have a delay of 2-3 days
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Old 10-29-2014, 04:27 PM
  #13  
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Just send an email inquiring about these.

Can the soldering be don in place or do they need to be remover?
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Old 11-15-2014, 03:45 AM
  #14  
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Hello! Past few days I've noticed that glow plug lamp on instrument cluster is blinking ocassionaly. Used VCDS and got this faults:


Address 01: Engine Labels: 03L-906-022-CAG.clb
Control Module Part Number: 03L 906 022 B HW: 03L 906 022 B
Component and/or Version: R4 2,0L EDC H01 3210
Software Coding: 0104002C18072018
Work Shop Code: WSC 99999 1023 2097151
ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20TDI03L906022B A01014 (AU48)
VCID: 24470A122F7BF23ED0B-8071
2 Faults Found:

5258 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 4 Bank 1
P246E 00 [032] - Electrical Malfunction
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 78
Mileage: 159464 km
Date: 2014.11.07
Time: 14:31:47

4984 - Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit (Q10)
P0671 00 [109] - Electrical Fault
Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 156669 km
Date: 2014.09.03
Time: 10:48:22

Does someone knows the part number of that Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 4 Bank 1? I will change the glow plug because it is cheap but this sensor is very expencive. I would like to know which sensor is faulty so I could try to find the same one on ebay or elsewhere. Maybe I could try to repair it somehow?

Thanks, and forgive me on my bad english.
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Old 07-29-2016, 10:34 AM
  #15  
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soooo... how bad would it be to just cut the probe wire instead of removing by unscrewing the probe from the exhaust? is it only 2 wires? Could I just cut and then reattach once the new board was installed? Also - what type of soldering iron and flux needed to do the job? I never soldered before so want to know if I could just cut these out and bring it to someone who could solder for me...
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Old 12-02-2017, 01:41 PM
  #16  
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I ordered a pair of boards from Andrzej, he returned all my emails within 12 hours...so far so good. He said 10-24 days for them to get to California, I hope it's on the shorter side because I'm eager to get this car back on the road. But, it beats the heck out of $500+ for new sensors.

I also saw that someone is selling EGT delete resistors on eBay for $40, they are complete with plugs. If I can't make Andrzej's boards work that will be my next step, risky I suppose for damage to the cat but at this point I am about ready to park this money pit on the railroad tracks anyway.

I pulled the boxes today and cracked them open, and found that one of them was likely replaced at some point. As you can see, the boards look very different. By my understanding they need to be replaced at the same time, but I also haven't heard a good reason why. I had already started scraping the silicone dog snot out of the passenger side box in this photo.

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Old 12-04-2017, 01:58 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by dustboy View Post
I ordered a pair of boards from Andrzej, he returned all my emails within 12 hours...so far so good. He said 10-24 days for them to get to California, I hope it's on the shorter side because I'm eager to get this car back on the road. But, it beats the heck out of $500+ for new sensors.

I also saw that someone is selling EGT delete resistors on eBay for $40, they are complete with plugs. If I can't make Andrzej's boards work that will be my next step, risky I suppose for damage to the cat but at this point I am about ready to park this money pit on the railroad tracks anyway.

I pulled the boxes today and cracked them open, and found that one of them was likely replaced at some point. As you can see, the boards look very different. By my understanding they need to be replaced at the same time, but I also haven't heard a good reason why. I had already started scraping the silicone dog snot out of the passenger side box in this photo.

yeah - they're supposed to look different - I suppose if they look the same - somebody already did that job and maybe the soldering went bad. I got mine - installed the new boards with solder - think I used silicone tape to cushion instead of more "snot" - haven't had any codes related to those sensors since... you can see when I last posted!
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Old 12-17-2017, 07:00 AM
  #18  
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I installed the boards, cleared the codes and everything seems back to normal!! Yahoo boost! The board was a bit tricky to fit in the red box without having the pins on the box touching any part of the board, but hopefully the RTV will hold it and keep anything from shorting. Big thanks to Andrzej for his awesome product and prompt service!
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Old 12-18-2017, 05:36 PM
  #19  
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Drove about 100 miles and the CEL light went on. Pulled the codes:

P1136: Bank 1 System too lean
P1138: Bank 2 System too lean
P1557: Charge Pressure control: Positive deviation



I cleared the codes, drove another 75 miles and no new CEL. I'm guessing that since the mixture was running rich before, the computer is now seeing the correct mix as too lean? Same situation for the Charge pressure?

Last edited by dustboy; 12-18-2017 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 01-06-2018, 10:57 PM
  #20  
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About to order 2 new boards. I've had both egts throwing open short codes for years now. Car runs just fine. Gets proper boost and has driven 20k lol. I just don't want to see the codes anymore. It's the only codes on the entire system. Not bad for a 13yr old car
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