Lawrence Butcher

Hi all,

Just picked up an 2010 A6, 3.0 TFSI. It has an issue with the swirl flaps on the inlets, flagging up code P2007/2008. Stuck closed. (Don' worry, I knew about the code when I purchased and knocked 2k off the asking price to account for worst case scenario of new manifolds).

My question is, these are pretty simple, vac operated valves, so surely there is not too much to go wrong. First thing I will do is check the vacuum units work etc, then go from there. I am suspecting as it is flagging both banks, it may just be a vacuum leak.

However, I am curious to know, are new manifolds the only answer if the units themseleves are kaput, or has anyone had any joy changing/repairing the vac units. I found this,

06E133159D - Audi Drive unit only for: | Jim Ellis Audi Parts, Atlanta GA

Which appears to list them seperately. My first experience with the 3.0 TFSi, but have had various 4.2s, 2.7 t and 3.0 TDI car before, so not too phased by the newer engine. Any advice from more experienced 3.0 fettlers welcome.

Cheers.

engleg

You will probably get more responses by posting this question in the A6 / S6 (C6 Platform) Discussion forum.

AudiAllTheWay

If the supercharger and intakes on both banks were removed for a past service such as injector replacement or intake decarbon maintenance etc, a common simple mistake during reassembly is to allow intake runner flaps to be physically locked in the closed position. The runners can get wedged on the wrong side of the intake guide plates and physically lock the runner flaps closed. If the vacuum test you described checks out OK then you may need to pull supercharger and inspect both intakes for proper assembly.

Lawrence Butcher

I thought I would post an update on this, as I finally got around to fixing the issue. Long story short, my thermostat shat itself so I ended up pulling the S/C, replacing the stat, plus the PCV and that bastard cross coolant pipe (one of the unions had a crack). I discovered that the actuator for the N/S manifold was shot, but luckily, it seems you can get just the actuator on its own. Local dealer was able to order from Audi Germany, at a cost of just over £80, much better than having to replace the whole manifold.

For anyone that needs it, the part number is 06E 133 159 D and 06E 133 159 E .

Hopefully this will prove useful for anyone in a similar situation.

AFone

Thanks for sharing the info. I'm experiencing the same issue. Oddly enough, I too had just replaced the thermostat and crosspipe.... How did you discover that the actuator was shot? (also what does "N/S mean?)

Lawrence Butcher

No problem. Hopefully it can help someone out. I narrowed it down to the actuator via a process of elimination using a vacum pump. I was pulling no vaccum on the connection to the solenoid, but the one actuator I could get to would operate fine with the pump attached so it had to be either a hole in the hose or the other actuator. Both of which required removal of the SC to access. Turned out to be the actuator. N/S means near side over here in the UK, which is kerb side/non driver's side.

AFone

Thanks, this helps immensely!

Q7CrawlerHauler

Has anyone pulled their flaps altogether? I know the tdi guys like to pull them. What are the ups and downs to a delete on this engine?

Snellen

Q7Crawler, did you ever get an answer?

I just bought my wife a Q7 and will be performing this vacuum repair and carbon cleaning maintenance. Any help for a parts/gasket replacement list would be much appreciated. I plan to purchase most items through PelicanParts as I've done business with them for 8yrs since owning my Cayenne Turbo. Is that universally agreed upon? I am very disappointed that they do not have any tech articles for the Q7 as they do with the Porsche's... which does include their list of other tasks to tackle while inside a particular job.

AudiAllTheWay

Never heard of removing the flaps on a 3.0T as they are designed to contribute to the swirl effect of air entering combustion chambers under different engine loads. Removing the flaps in the cylinder head would alter the combustion chamber intake air flow pattern.

Some parts to consider:
Upper intake gasket set
Lower intake gasket set
Air coupler pipe (or at least 2 new o-rings) between Supercharger and Oil Separator / PCV
Supercharger belt (spin pulleys by hand to check for play and noisy bearings with belt off)

Depending on mileage and long term reliability then consider:
Oil Separator / PCV assembly (it is considered a maintenance item)
Thermostat
Waterpump
Accessory belt
Supercharger oil change
Coolant replace
Plastic cross over pipe with new o-ring front to back over the PCV assembly
Maybe the High Pressure Fuel Sensor since it is under the Supercharger