DIY DSG fluid change
#11
AudiWorld Member
I used the OEM fluid specifically for the 7 speed DSG, part number G055529A2.
FWIW the fluid that came out looked real good. It has hardly any smell, and my brother in law thought it smelled like spices.
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Humble Bear (01-04-2022)
#12
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Join Date: Jul 2011
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Thanks again. I was looking around in VCDS and under basic settings in the transmission module I saw a command (check ATF level) I assume this would start the pump, but I won’t risk it unless I get more info on what it actually does. I’m still a few months away before I reach 40k, so I have some time to keep investigating.
#13
AudiWorld Member
Thanks again. I was looking around in VCDS and under basic settings in the transmission module I saw a command (check ATF level) I assume this would start the pump, but I won’t risk it unless I get more info on what it actually does. I’m still a few months away before I reach 40k, so I have some time to keep investigating.
#15
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#16
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I was curious if it called out an Audi/VW spec/approval like Pentosin does in the picture below, but I guess not thanks for checking. I guess the aftermarket fluid suppliers are a little behind catching up to this new transmission.
#17
AudiWorld Member
Yes they are behind. The pentosin spec is for 6 speed DSG. A4 b9 is a 7 speed AND the DSG clutch/mechatronic DSG fluid is kept separate from the gear oil that lubes the gears. So two different fluids inside one transmission
#18
You can't imagine how grateful I am for your tutorial !!!!
I have been busting my *** today to find out a little bit more about the service on such a gearbox.
I have an 2014 A6 which looks like it has the same transmission type, although the sump is not plastic but the same material as the rest of the gearbox body.
I will try to browse this forum for something specific for the A6 but I think I'm good with the information I got from here.
I will do this procedure this week. If anyone is interested I can probably come back with some feedback maybe even some pictures.
Keep up the good work guys ! and drive safe !
I have been busting my *** today to find out a little bit more about the service on such a gearbox.
I have an 2014 A6 which looks like it has the same transmission type, although the sump is not plastic but the same material as the rest of the gearbox body.
I will try to browse this forum for something specific for the A6 but I think I'm good with the information I got from here.
I will do this procedure this week. If anyone is interested I can probably come back with some feedback maybe even some pictures.
Keep up the good work guys ! and drive safe !
#19
This morning I took some pictures of mine seen from under. It looks to me that the emptying plug is almost the same size/diameter as yours but the filling plug looks smaller in diameter.
About your description of the procedure, as english is not my native language I want to make sure I understood the terms correctly.
@breadbooze "Once the overfill slows to a drip replace the fill plug". Can you please put this in other words?
Did you use the small Mityvac pump from the link?
I have a peristaltic electric pump which I want to use. It will not do the job fast but that is not a problem for me.
I am going to make such a rubber plug with a hole for the hose. I will use a 6/4 transparent silicone hose.
Buy my idea was to use the pump from under the gearbox and pump up the oil. I have a small concern about where the air from inside the gearbox will go if I make a good sealing of the filling plug.
emptying plug
filling plug
general view under the gearbox
About your description of the procedure, as english is not my native language I want to make sure I understood the terms correctly.
@breadbooze "Once the overfill slows to a drip replace the fill plug". Can you please put this in other words?
Did you use the small Mityvac pump from the link?
I have a peristaltic electric pump which I want to use. It will not do the job fast but that is not a problem for me.
I am going to make such a rubber plug with a hole for the hose. I will use a 6/4 transparent silicone hose.
Buy my idea was to use the pump from under the gearbox and pump up the oil. I have a small concern about where the air from inside the gearbox will go if I make a good sealing of the filling plug.
emptying plug
filling plug
general view under the gearbox
#20
So yesterday I did the service on the gearbox.
I have a few comments/questions to add to out colleagues tutorial.
"STEPS
-Warm up the car (take it for a drive), (I wonder if this step is really necessary to warm up the car? What would be the effect if starting to empty it when it has been standing still for several hours. On mine after I did this and then 10 minutes later opened up first the filling plug, I had about 100-150cc oil coming out. I thought that there should not be much oil coming out of that port so I ended up with quite a mess on the floor.) then raise all four corners on a level surface.
-Remove the panel shielding the tranny. Six T-25s and two push clips on the rear, remove those by separating the head from the expansion sleeve.
-locate the fill and drain ports, both are on the plastic sump (pan)
-position the drain pan and remove the fill and drain plugs. Turn on the car (By this, I understood start the engine. But you can only activate this emptying of the pressure reservoir with the ignition on, BUT engine stopped) and connect the vag-com tool, go into the transmission module, adaptation, oil pressure reservoir emptying, and turn on. Monitor the oil pressure reservoir pressure in live data and see that it drops. About 3L of fluid should come out. After draining, replace the drain plug with a new one. You can reuse the old one but I found a small of amount of seepage a week later.
-The tricky part is filling it without having the fluid shoot back out. I used a rubber plug that fits the port and drilled a hole that fit my fluid pump's tubing and sealed the plug/tube with silicone. You can also modify an old port plug. The tube should extend past the plug some 3 inches, I will get exact measurements next time I change out the fluid. ( I measured the depth from the outer surface of the plug to the end of this filling chanel and is aprox 74mm)
-Once the overfill slows to a drip replace the fill port plug and start up the engine.
-Step on the brake and shift from P to R, N, D, S, then back to P stopping for a few seconds on each. Monitor the reservoir pressure and it should go back up to around mid-20's bar. (On mine nothing was happening so I had to deactivate the emptying of the pressure reservoir from VAG-COM. I started the engine again and then there was pressure. In the beggining I was a little concerned because it went very quick to aprox 40 Bar and then after aprox 30-40 sec it dropped to aprox 28 bar.
-Turn off the engine and open up the fill port again. Add additional fluid. (Does anyone have any idea? After this last filling, does the gearbox take anymore oil? I mean. If you fill up to a level where it will not drip anything back out, after starting up the engine and running up to 35-40 dregrees, will the consequence be that the level is higher in the gearbox and something wil come out? Our do you need to fill up to a higher level before warming up the oil again? I ask all these questions because I would have liked to be able to do this nice and clean, but it was not really possible. So maybe we can somehow improve the procedure) Start the engine and it idle. Monitor the transmission fluid temperature (DSG fluid is heated by clutch plate friction).
-After a while the fluid temp should rise, once it reaches 30-40C, stop the engine remove the fill port plug.
-There should be some leakage. When the overfill slows replace the port plug with a new plug and reinstall the shielding.
After everything was installed back in place, I took it our for a short run. When I god out of the yard the first 3-4 gearchanges not as smooth as I was used to, but then everything came in place and I am totally happy with the way it runs.
Thank you again for your tutorial.
I am also attaching some photos from VAG-COM where you can see how the pressure was oscillating before performing the service. I recommend that when you have to do this service take a look at your also before and after, SO you know everything works as it should.
I am attaching some photos taken during the procedure.
Remember this is a Audi A6 Avant 2014
my filling system
the peristaltic pump which I used
I used a 6/4 silicone hose (6mm outside /4 mm inside) which I ran through a short piece aprox 3cm long of another silicone hose which had outside aprox 10.5mm diam
the filling plug
When I first started the engine to warm up the transmission oil before the service
waming up
warming up
the grey line is the pressure. the red line is the remperature of the oil
After the service, the grey line has to have the same trend has before. It goes to maximum aprox 28 and falls to aprox 20bar and then up again and so on,
I have a few comments/questions to add to out colleagues tutorial.
"STEPS
-Warm up the car (take it for a drive), (I wonder if this step is really necessary to warm up the car? What would be the effect if starting to empty it when it has been standing still for several hours. On mine after I did this and then 10 minutes later opened up first the filling plug, I had about 100-150cc oil coming out. I thought that there should not be much oil coming out of that port so I ended up with quite a mess on the floor.) then raise all four corners on a level surface.
-Remove the panel shielding the tranny. Six T-25s and two push clips on the rear, remove those by separating the head from the expansion sleeve.
-locate the fill and drain ports, both are on the plastic sump (pan)
-position the drain pan and remove the fill and drain plugs. Turn on the car (By this, I understood start the engine. But you can only activate this emptying of the pressure reservoir with the ignition on, BUT engine stopped) and connect the vag-com tool, go into the transmission module, adaptation, oil pressure reservoir emptying, and turn on. Monitor the oil pressure reservoir pressure in live data and see that it drops. About 3L of fluid should come out. After draining, replace the drain plug with a new one. You can reuse the old one but I found a small of amount of seepage a week later.
-The tricky part is filling it without having the fluid shoot back out. I used a rubber plug that fits the port and drilled a hole that fit my fluid pump's tubing and sealed the plug/tube with silicone. You can also modify an old port plug. The tube should extend past the plug some 3 inches, I will get exact measurements next time I change out the fluid. ( I measured the depth from the outer surface of the plug to the end of this filling chanel and is aprox 74mm)
-Once the overfill slows to a drip replace the fill port plug and start up the engine.
-Step on the brake and shift from P to R, N, D, S, then back to P stopping for a few seconds on each. Monitor the reservoir pressure and it should go back up to around mid-20's bar. (On mine nothing was happening so I had to deactivate the emptying of the pressure reservoir from VAG-COM. I started the engine again and then there was pressure. In the beggining I was a little concerned because it went very quick to aprox 40 Bar and then after aprox 30-40 sec it dropped to aprox 28 bar.
-Turn off the engine and open up the fill port again. Add additional fluid. (Does anyone have any idea? After this last filling, does the gearbox take anymore oil? I mean. If you fill up to a level where it will not drip anything back out, after starting up the engine and running up to 35-40 dregrees, will the consequence be that the level is higher in the gearbox and something wil come out? Our do you need to fill up to a higher level before warming up the oil again? I ask all these questions because I would have liked to be able to do this nice and clean, but it was not really possible. So maybe we can somehow improve the procedure) Start the engine and it idle. Monitor the transmission fluid temperature (DSG fluid is heated by clutch plate friction).
-After a while the fluid temp should rise, once it reaches 30-40C, stop the engine remove the fill port plug.
-There should be some leakage. When the overfill slows replace the port plug with a new plug and reinstall the shielding.
After everything was installed back in place, I took it our for a short run. When I god out of the yard the first 3-4 gearchanges not as smooth as I was used to, but then everything came in place and I am totally happy with the way it runs.
Thank you again for your tutorial.
I am also attaching some photos from VAG-COM where you can see how the pressure was oscillating before performing the service. I recommend that when you have to do this service take a look at your also before and after, SO you know everything works as it should.
I am attaching some photos taken during the procedure.
Remember this is a Audi A6 Avant 2014
my filling system
the peristaltic pump which I used
I used a 6/4 silicone hose (6mm outside /4 mm inside) which I ran through a short piece aprox 3cm long of another silicone hose which had outside aprox 10.5mm diam
the filling plug
When I first started the engine to warm up the transmission oil before the service
waming up
warming up
the grey line is the pressure. the red line is the remperature of the oil
After the service, the grey line has to have the same trend has before. It goes to maximum aprox 28 and falls to aprox 20bar and then up again and so on,