Brandon Cranmore

I was recently looking at newer Audi A4's to replace my 2012 Volvo s60 when I came across a 2001 Audi a4 with 23k miles on it. Dealer says it was found in a storage unit and they replaced the water pump and timing belt due to age but everything was in spectacular condition. I've confirmed everything looks and sounds top notch on the car but am wondering if i should be looking for anything specific before I seal the deal. I know it sounds crazy to go from a 2012 car to a 2001 but with that low mileage I am very tempted and I wouldn't have a car payment anymore.

Things to know:
Car fax checks out.
Their story matches the carfax (doesn't mean much, I know).
Everything lines up on the car.
Vin #'s are in appropriate places.
Original factory full-size spare tire in trunk.
Original first aid kit in backseat armrest.
Anything else?

Thanks!

clancy

Brandon Cranmore

I haven't pulled the trigger yet. They are asking 6500 but I am going to start by offering them 4,000. They replaced the tires because it was sitting for a long time so the tires had flat spots. I need to ask about the fluids and ensure they changed the oil. The dealer itself has good reviews/reputation and seem to seek out car like these so hopefully its not a lemon.

clancy

Brandon Cranmore

Good idea. I'll let you know what the outcome is and if I end up buying it. Thanks for the help!

carkarl

My brother's '99 A4 1.8T quattro avant w/ manual 5-speed basically went into garage storage in 2000. Various members of the family used it once in a while and gave it periodic oil changes and battery minding. I inherited it in 2008 with about the same odometer reading you describe. I drove it to about 70k miles and sold it in 2017. It never stranded me anywhere and was in good condition when I sold it. I guess you could say I had some sentimental attachment I had to work through before selling.

Besides battery, tires, and timing belt, quite a few other components aged out. The most expensive was the power steering rack. Others included several engine thermostat, oil seals, nearly all the driveline mounts front to back, suspension bushings, and the fuel-level sender from the gas tank. This happened steadily throughout my ownership. No matter how well you store a car, a 20 year old car is still going to have 20 year old components in it. I got very familiar with its noises and behavior and diagnosed most problems well in advance of the next service.

Our 2017 Q3 is much more comfortable and quiet for road trips. In new cars, the transmission gearing is higher for highway speeds, sound deadening material is not dried out and crumbling, and there have been continual improvements to handling and ride comfort.

uberwgn

Brandon, welcome aboard! While I can understand the desire to get out of a Volvo, is it practical to move (backwards) into a car nearly 20 yrs. old? While the dealer can be commended for doing the maintenance they report, how are things like the tires and all the other rubber bits in the suspension? Needing replacement as well? I really have to wonder how likely this car is to provide long-term and reliable transportation for you. It seems most would want the latest safety features and things like Bluetooth, etc., in their "new" car.

98A4TQ

Hi, I like the suggestions by the others. Here is my experience. About four years ago I came across a 1998 A4TQ with about 36,000 miles on it. My daughter liked it. So I bought it for her. It had been stored , well maintained, and seemed great. She ran it for about two years in the Toronto area, and the terrible roads etc. meant new wheel bearings, and the usual chassis items wore out. It lost an oil seal; but she is smart, so turned it off and coasted into a service station; oil dumped out on road from blown seal. From there a tow. After that she was nervous about driving it. I loaned her my 03 Mitsubishi Galant and had the Audi "restored". But she did not trust the A4, so I have it now. I drive it a little and it runs like a champ. I know a good private auto shop and they are reasonable and do great work. So when one of the coils failed recently I was there in ten minutes and he saw me right away, diagnosed the part and had a new spare one in place all within 20 minutes - all for less than the dealer wanted just for the part alone. If I were to rely on it as a daily driver I would get a CAA/AAA membership for the tow if needed. If you have a short commute and keep the milage low it could give you years a reliable service imo.

By then the 13 year old Galant was also worn out and was said to need about $4000 in repairs. So I traded it in (was glad to get something for it,) and we got a recent used Hyundai Accent with extended warrantee. I used the $4000 that was earmarked for the Galant, and we love the Accent. It has lots of great features.

My rule of thumb for operating a car bought used is to spend under $1,000 (average, so some years very little, and some years more) per year on repairs, including tires, brakes etc. Not always possible, but most years yes. For an old car I carry the required insurance, but no comprehensive or collision. So the savings on insurance pay for the extra repairs. If I keep the car a long time, like 15 years and send it to the auto graveyard when it is 21 my annualized purchase cost is quite low too.

Good luck with your decision.

Brandon Cranmore

Thanks for the warm welcome! I think this is why I am hesitating. I've been a Volvo fan for a long time...I like my Volvo but have had quite a few issues with it and even with an extended warranty it has cost quite a bit to maintain over the past year. With the Audi I would get out of a car payment, but then I lose the warranty coverage. What a pickle lol.

Brandon Cranmore

Oh and to answer your question about the tires. The dealer had to replace them because they had worn spots where they were sitting for so long. Not sure about the suspension though. I work for an auto parts store where I can get performance parts at cost + free labor. I would definitely be doing some work on this one if I purchase it.