'99 A4 1.8T Cam Chain Tensioner Failing?
Engine Code is AEB. Sound is always there, other than when idling, though I haven't taken the engine past 3000 rpms for fear that I could bend a valve, ect.
Observe engine noise: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZoESTsHOQU Thanks for any assistance. |
It does sound like it, is the noise def coming from the rear of the motor? When mine went it sounded like a loud clacking noise for a few seconds on startup. Although its possible that an accessory's bearing is on its way out too. couldnt see much in the vid.
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Originally Posted by Audi0s
(Post 24048233)
It does sound like it, is the noise def coming from the rear of the motor? When mine went it sounded like a loud clacking noise for a few seconds on startup. Although its possible that an accessory's bearing is on its way out too. couldnt see much in the vid.
I do notice that the oil temp gauge never gets to operating temperature, even on hot summer days. It hovers around 190F, and never the 240-250F that it should be. Could this be my thermostatic oil control unit stuck open like a coolant thermometer would? Or do they operate differently? |
you will need to pop off the valve cover and check it out, more then likely it will need replaced, ECS tuning has them for around $300 OEM audi
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Originally Posted by jschick
(Post 24048861)
you will need to pop off the valve cover and check it out, more then likely it will need replaced, ECS tuning has them for around $300 OEM audi
http://c1552172.cdn.cloudfiles.racks...22540_x800.jpg |
Originally Posted by Pete@ECSTuning
(Post 24049032)
^+1. Really does sound like a lack of tension. Pull the valve cover off and inspect the tensioner and the chain. Thanks jschick - we have Genuine Audi for $204. Here is that part and a few other options:
http://c1552172.cdn.cloudfiles.racks...22540_x800.jpg Would there be any harm in going with the $100 part from MTC as opposed to the OEM? Are there any special VAG tools that I would need to complete the job? Thanks |
Originally Posted by footyboyack
(Post 24049225)
Pete,
Would there be any harm in going with the $100 part from MTC as opposed to the OEM? Are there any special VAG tools that I would need to complete the job? Thanks Cam Chain Tensioner Gasket $6: http://c1552172.cdn.cloudfiles.racks...20931_x800.jpg Valve Cover Gasket $15: http://c1552172.cdn.cloudfiles.racks.../1072_x800.jpg |
Originally Posted by Pete@ECSTuning
(Post 24049469)
Honestly, ever since we introduced the MTC brand CCT, we have sold as many MTCs as we have Genuine Audi. We sell a lot of various MTC parts, and I would trust them on my vehicle. You shouldn't need any additional tools for this job. I would recommend replacing the cam chain tensioner gasket and valve cover gaskets while you've got the valve cover off:
Cam Chain Tensioner Gasket $6: http://c1552172.cdn.cloudfiles.racks...20931_x800.jpg Valve Cover Gasket $15: http://c1552172.cdn.cloudfiles.racks.../1072_x800.jpg |
My oil temps never get above 200 with synthetic. With mineral, Id see about 215. The book says remove both cams for this job. Do you have any type of manual available?
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Originally Posted by Audi0s
(Post 24050373)
My oil temps never get above 200 with synthetic. With mineral, Id see about 215. The book says remove both cams for this job. Do you have any type of manual available?
I've read that you can get away with just removing the intake cam and tensioner, but don't have a manual. |
Yea thats all yuou need to do. Make sure you start loosening the cam at the middle bridges, and go in a circle. Also back each bolt out 1 turn, dont take them all the way out one at a time. You can crack the cam if its not supported evenly. Roll the cam out, slide the new tensioner in, and roll the cam back in. Count the links between marks on the rear cam bridge, 16 is timed. Take pics before you tear it apart so you have a guide.
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Originally Posted by Audi0s
(Post 24050489)
Yea thats all yuou need to do. Make sure you start loosening the cam at the middle bridges, and go in a circle. Also back each bolt out 1 turn, dont take them all the way out one at a time. You can crack the cam if its not supported evenly. Roll the cam out, slide the new tensioner in, and roll the cam back in. Count the links between marks on the rear cam bridge, 16 is timed. Take pics before you tear it apart so you have a guide.
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Take pictures and let us know how it goes!
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Yep, I'll try.
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Cam tensioner - cam position sensor short or open code?
I have
17746 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) P1338 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Plus Reset codes (disconnect battery for long time, disconnect and shortened (car side) for minute, erased codes with VAGcom. Replaced G40 (2x with good used, 1x with brand new). Switched ECU. Checked voltage on connector. Checked resistance on connector pins to ECU (11, 67, 76). Code come back right away. Pulling cam sensor connector with engine running generates same code. Cut connector off and soldered other connector. Code comes back right away. Same symptoms (long cranking, barely starting, no power under 2k rpm; all classic 'bad cam sensor'). Rosstech wiki also lists: check cam adjuster. Could cam adjuster cause 'bad cam sensor code'? Any other suggestions? |
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