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ABS Intermittent Module Error

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Old 11-04-2013, 02:09 AM
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Default ABS Intermittent Module Error

Hi - I have an Audi A4 2.8L Quattro

About 4 months ago the ABS Module error showed up and never went away. Then about 5 days ago I took the car to the garage to have the ABS module removed and inspected - internally the module was prestine - no issues witht he pins etc - so it was reinstalled into the car and the connectors sprayed with Contact spray and then plugged back in. Start car - ABS working!!

Next morning ABS is still working. Go for a trip to neighboring Germany (I live in Switzerland) and after being on the highway for a little over an hour we get off the highway and are in traffic - stoping at lights etc ... - ABS error comes back on! - Then a few minutes later ABS error goes away ... it does this a few times and then stays off ...

Twice while the ABS Module error was showing (yellow ABS light on, flashing red exclamation mark in a red circle in the middle of the dash console) I pulled over, popped the hood and wriggled the ABS connector and wires - both time the ABS re-engaged, but then a few minutes later the ABS error returned.

So initially I was going to replace the module - now I am wondering if I really need to spend that 450CHF ($500USD) for a new module when the issue may have nothing to do with the module itself ...

I have already used this Contact spray a couple times in the last few days but the error keep showing. Not to sure where to go from here... was thinking of testing the socket with a multimeter or something - but I have no idea which pins to check for what ...

Thanks for any advice
Old 11-04-2013, 07:48 AM
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Take the module itself (not pump) out (car is still driveable) and ship to Matt. He fixed 5 or 6 for me by now (shipped another on Saturday). Good, reliable guy:

boschabsrepair@yahoo.com
www.cheapabs.com/ABSFORM.pdf
Old 11-04-2013, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by vtraudt
Take the module itself (not pump) out (car is still driveable) and ship to Matt. He fixed 5 or 6 for me by now (shipped another on Saturday). Good, reliable guy:

boschabsrepair@yahoo.com
www.cheapabs.com/ABSFORM.pdf
Seems like Matt is in the USA ... so that's a bit far to send from here ...
Also as I said in my opening post, the issue seems to go away temporarily when the main connecting socket is fiddled with, which seems to indicate that it may have nothing to do with the module itself. The module has already been removed an inspected and was found to be in prestine condition inside.

Does anyone have experience troubleshooting issues with the main connecting socket and/or wires?
Old 11-05-2013, 04:19 AM
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The module has a high failure rate issue, chances are good that it is the module. The failure occurs in the sealed part of the module, you would have to cut the cover off to see it. Keep in mind that most people who rebuild them don't want to work on them if it has already been cut open, it is just to easy to cause additional damage. I would think that there would be folks who work on them in your part of the world, although I don't think that shipping of a small item like that would be prohibitive, the difference in price between rebuilt and new is huge. I would also stay away from used, it may work when you get it, but is still likely to fail. I got a rebuilt one off ebay, came with a lifetime warranty. You might contact sellers on there and see if they would ship to your location, just make sure you match up the part number.
Old 11-05-2013, 05:14 AM
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I am not keen on the idea of sending my module off for repair if it's not the problem to begin with. I realise that in most cases the module is what is at fault, however why would it be the module if the problem has gone away by simple jiggling the connector and wires leading to the connector!?

I would rather start at the easier and cheaper end of the repair possibilities than at the harder and more costly end. What would be really helpful is a diagram of the connector pins showing what each one should be carrying in volts etc ...

And labor is very expensive here. I paid already 220 CHF to have the module removed, inspected (yes the cap was removed and glued back shut) and reinstalled on the car.

Also I probably would not drive the car while the module is removed and sent somewhere for repair as the weather right now is very wet and roads dirty. So before I pay another 200+CHF to have the module removed and reinstalled, plus not have the use of my car for at least a full week, I would like to test the connector pins.
Old 11-05-2013, 11:33 AM
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Its the module, the soldering joints where the terminals go onto the circuit board are crap so it intermittently works, Putting pressure on the connector tends to make them work. I have jammed stuff in there to put pressure on the connector and it works for awhile
Old 11-11-2013, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by vtraudt
Take the module itself (not pump) out (car is still driveable) and ship to Matt. He fixed 5 or 6 for me by now (shipped another on Saturday). Good, reliable guy:

boschabsrepair@yahoo.com
www.cheapabs.com/ABSFORM.pdf
Just FYI:
Shipped ABS module from my 2003 A6 (code on this one: 01435 - Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201) 57-10 - Electric Circuit Failure - Intermittent) out to Matt on Monday, installed Saturday. Done.
That's the 6th or 7th module (Passat, A4, Allroad, A6) fix. Always fixed the issue (not once did I have other ABS issue not fixed by Matt's ABS repair).
Old 11-11-2013, 06:37 AM
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It will be the module. It's a very common fault on B5's.

Check Ebay for a European rebuilder, there's heaps.
Just use a search like "Audi ABS module repair", or put it in German on Ebay.de.

Also, driving the car with the ABS warning light on means it's non-functional and the car can potentially skid (thus the "(!)" warning light). So what difference does it make if the module is then removed?

Also, Swiss Francs (CHF)? Didn't Switzerland join the Euro?

Last edited by twentysevenlitres; 11-11-2013 at 06:44 AM.
Old 11-11-2013, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jackeroo
I am not keen on the idea of sending my module off for repair if it's not the problem to begin with. I realise that in most cases the module is what is at fault, however why would it be the module if the problem has gone away by simple jiggling the connector and wires leading to the connector!?
This sounds consistent with a bad module.

Originally Posted by jackeroo
I would rather start at the easier and cheaper end of the repair possibilities than at the harder and more costly end. What would be really helpful is a diagram of the connector pins showing what each one should be carrying in volts etc ...
A rebuild *is* the cheaper end. And how is a pinout going to help you diagnose and intermittent issue?

Originally Posted by jackeroo
And labor is very expensive here. I paid already 220 CHF to have the module removed, inspected (yes the cap was removed and glued back shut) and reinstalled on the car.
Waste of money, and money already spent. Still does not change the best course of action.


Originally Posted by jackeroo
Also I probably would not drive the car while the module is removed and sent somewhere for repair as the weather right now is very wet and roads dirty. So before I pay another 200+CHF to have the module removed and reinstalled, plus not have the use of my car for at least a full week, I would like to test the connector pins.
Why not remove it yourself. It's not difficult.
Old 11-18-2013, 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by twentysevenlitres
Also, Swiss Francs (CHF)? Didn't Switzerland join the Euro?
No, never joined the Eurozone and we have no intention of ever doing so!
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