APR Snub Mount Write-up: (with some tricks for making a snub mount install WAY easier)......
03-18-2002, 08:54 PM
#1
APR Snub Mount Write-up: (with some tricks for making a snub mount install WAY easier)......
DRIVING IMPRESSIONS:
Nothing short of amazing. I can't believe what a difference this made. I highly recommend it to anyone.
Shifting and really hammering the accelerator while letting the clutch out is SOOO much smoother and solid.
"Solid" is really the best way to describe it. The engine moves around so much less when going on/off the throttle, shifting, letting the clutch out, etc. Gone is that annoying way that the shifter would move when in 2nd gear, everytime you go on/off the throttle.
Believe it or not (flame suit on), it actually makes the car a little bit faster. Because the engine doesn't buck around anymore when you hit the gas, power gets applied quicker and stronger. You can totally feel it. Dropping it into second at 5500 rpms is just amazing. It just pulls so hard and smooth without all the drama of the engine and drivetrain squirming around.
It's kinda like taking your car to the chiropractor. Everything just feels properly lined up and rock solid. The various parts of the drivetrain, gearbox, and shifter feel like they're in perfect cosmic alignment. No more squirming around as various mechanical linkages try to torque each other around. You can really feel it, and it's totally satisfying.
Now I'm probably noticing an improvement more than you 4-bangers will, since the V6 is substantially heavier. The stock mount is really wussy for the V6. It's the same one used for the 1.8. Mine was completely split down one side. True, I'm probably noticing more of a difference because my stock mount was trashed, but the APR mount is still a vast improvement over how the car felt brand spanking new.
This has gotta be without question the all-time greatest "bang-for-the-buck" mod. It costs $49 plus shipping, and made a huge difference on the car.
............
INSTALL TIPS:
First of all, print out the write-up in the link here. I used that write-up and the APR instructions simultaneously. And you might wanna print this out too. It'll help.......
First of all, print out the write-up in the link here. I used that write-up and the APR instructions simultaneously. And you might wanna print this out too. It'll help.......
Additional tools NOT mentioned in APR instructions:
1. 3/8" socket wrench
2. 1/4" socket wrench (VERY helpful for mount shroud)
3. 13mm socket for 1/4" drive socket wrench.
4. 6mm allen socket for your 3/8" socket wrench. (don't just use a 6mm allen wrench. Trust me.)
5. 13mm open ended wrench.
6. 6" extension for 3/8" ratchet (for removing bumper shock screws).
7. Synthetic grease.
Getting the stock mount off of the spindle and getting the APR mount on is probably the trickiest part of the install. I did it in a way that made it simple. Get a friend to help.
After getting the bumper off, and loosening up the radiator bolts........
1. Loosen the screws holding on the bumper shocks. On the passenger side bumper shock, remove the screws completely. BE CAREFUL TO SUPPORT THE RADIATOR WHEN YOU TAKE THESE OUT. Doing this REALLY helps make more room to work around the snub mount.
Leave the screws for the driver's side bumper shock in, but just barely. Unscrew them until there's just a few threads engaging.
2. Now have your friend support the radiator while pulling it out as far as he can. It's not that heavy. Remember that the screws in the driver's side bumper shock are still helping to support it.
3. While your friend is supporting the radiator, remove the three bolts for the mount shroud. This is where the 13mm open ended wrench and the 1/4" drive socket wrench with the 13mm socket come in handy. You won't be able to get the shroud out yet, not until you......
4. Remove the stock mount from the spindle. This was done quite easily by using a large flat-headed screwdriver to pry it off.
5. Now remove the mount shroud and the stock mount. Spend a minute oggling at what a piece of crap the stock mount is compared to the APR mount. Mine was trashed. Big split down one side. Nice job Audi. 43,000 miles and the thing is trashed.
6. Now check to make sure that the APR mount fits inside the shroud with no rubbing. Mine wasn't even close to rubbing. There was a good 3mm gap all the way around it. If it is rubbing, grind down the mount until there's at least a 1mm gap all the way around.
7. Coat the mount, inside and out, with synthetic grease. This is not mentioned in the APR instructions, but it's gotta be a good idea. The smooth urethane of the mount is a squeak waiting to happen. The mount is virtually identical to a sway bar bushing, which definitely squeaks if not greased.
8. Put the mount in the shroud, and slide them back in, lining up the lip of the mount with the end of the spindle.
9. Reinstall and hand-tighten the shroud bolts. (mount is NOT on spindle yet, it's just lined up with it).
10. HERE'S THE TRICK: Instead of trying to slide the APR mount onto the spindle (what most people bitch about being the hardest part)....simply reinstall and tighten the bolts for the bumper shocks, making sure that the mount is lined up with the spindle when you do so.
By tightening the bumper shock bolts, the mount automatically gets forced onto the spindle. Piece of cake.
11. Tighten up all of the radiator bolts.
12. Remember that the shroud bolts still aren't tightened yet.
13. Idle the car for a few minutes, to center the mount.
14. Tighten the shroud bolts making sure the shroud is centered on the mount.
Now put the bumper back on.
.............
Hope this helps.
Nothing short of amazing. I can't believe what a difference this made. I highly recommend it to anyone.
Shifting and really hammering the accelerator while letting the clutch out is SOOO much smoother and solid.
"Solid" is really the best way to describe it. The engine moves around so much less when going on/off the throttle, shifting, letting the clutch out, etc. Gone is that annoying way that the shifter would move when in 2nd gear, everytime you go on/off the throttle.
Believe it or not (flame suit on), it actually makes the car a little bit faster. Because the engine doesn't buck around anymore when you hit the gas, power gets applied quicker and stronger. You can totally feel it. Dropping it into second at 5500 rpms is just amazing. It just pulls so hard and smooth without all the drama of the engine and drivetrain squirming around.
It's kinda like taking your car to the chiropractor. Everything just feels properly lined up and rock solid. The various parts of the drivetrain, gearbox, and shifter feel like they're in perfect cosmic alignment. No more squirming around as various mechanical linkages try to torque each other around. You can really feel it, and it's totally satisfying.
Now I'm probably noticing an improvement more than you 4-bangers will, since the V6 is substantially heavier. The stock mount is really wussy for the V6. It's the same one used for the 1.8. Mine was completely split down one side. True, I'm probably noticing more of a difference because my stock mount was trashed, but the APR mount is still a vast improvement over how the car felt brand spanking new.
This has gotta be without question the all-time greatest "bang-for-the-buck" mod. It costs $49 plus shipping, and made a huge difference on the car.
............
INSTALL TIPS:
First of all, print out the write-up in the link here. I used that write-up and the APR instructions simultaneously. And you might wanna print this out too. It'll help.......
First of all, print out the write-up in the link here. I used that write-up and the APR instructions simultaneously. And you might wanna print this out too. It'll help.......
Additional tools NOT mentioned in APR instructions:
1. 3/8" socket wrench
2. 1/4" socket wrench (VERY helpful for mount shroud)
3. 13mm socket for 1/4" drive socket wrench.
4. 6mm allen socket for your 3/8" socket wrench. (don't just use a 6mm allen wrench. Trust me.)
5. 13mm open ended wrench.
6. 6" extension for 3/8" ratchet (for removing bumper shock screws).
7. Synthetic grease.
Getting the stock mount off of the spindle and getting the APR mount on is probably the trickiest part of the install. I did it in a way that made it simple. Get a friend to help.
After getting the bumper off, and loosening up the radiator bolts........
1. Loosen the screws holding on the bumper shocks. On the passenger side bumper shock, remove the screws completely. BE CAREFUL TO SUPPORT THE RADIATOR WHEN YOU TAKE THESE OUT. Doing this REALLY helps make more room to work around the snub mount.
Leave the screws for the driver's side bumper shock in, but just barely. Unscrew them until there's just a few threads engaging.
2. Now have your friend support the radiator while pulling it out as far as he can. It's not that heavy. Remember that the screws in the driver's side bumper shock are still helping to support it.
3. While your friend is supporting the radiator, remove the three bolts for the mount shroud. This is where the 13mm open ended wrench and the 1/4" drive socket wrench with the 13mm socket come in handy. You won't be able to get the shroud out yet, not until you......
4. Remove the stock mount from the spindle. This was done quite easily by using a large flat-headed screwdriver to pry it off.
5. Now remove the mount shroud and the stock mount. Spend a minute oggling at what a piece of crap the stock mount is compared to the APR mount. Mine was trashed. Big split down one side. Nice job Audi. 43,000 miles and the thing is trashed.
6. Now check to make sure that the APR mount fits inside the shroud with no rubbing. Mine wasn't even close to rubbing. There was a good 3mm gap all the way around it. If it is rubbing, grind down the mount until there's at least a 1mm gap all the way around.
7. Coat the mount, inside and out, with synthetic grease. This is not mentioned in the APR instructions, but it's gotta be a good idea. The smooth urethane of the mount is a squeak waiting to happen. The mount is virtually identical to a sway bar bushing, which definitely squeaks if not greased.
8. Put the mount in the shroud, and slide them back in, lining up the lip of the mount with the end of the spindle.
9. Reinstall and hand-tighten the shroud bolts. (mount is NOT on spindle yet, it's just lined up with it).
10. HERE'S THE TRICK: Instead of trying to slide the APR mount onto the spindle (what most people bitch about being the hardest part)....simply reinstall and tighten the bolts for the bumper shocks, making sure that the mount is lined up with the spindle when you do so.
By tightening the bumper shock bolts, the mount automatically gets forced onto the spindle. Piece of cake.
11. Tighten up all of the radiator bolts.
12. Remember that the shroud bolts still aren't tightened yet.
13. Idle the car for a few minutes, to center the mount.
14. Tighten the shroud bolts making sure the shroud is centered on the mount.
Now put the bumper back on.
.............
Hope this helps.
03-19-2002, 04:24 AM
#3
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Hmmm, you got me thinking now...
I've been noticing for the last 10K miles or so a delay in "on throttle" situations. Nothing is wrong with the engine (or the BPV), it's just that everything is going to mush on my 45K 1.8T. For $50, it's worth a shot...but I'm still afraid of the install! Regardless, I've bookmarked this one! I wonder how much of it will apply to a 1.8T? Nice work!
03-19-2002, 04:29 AM
#4
Thanks Raj......It will make a big difference on your 1.8 as well. The oem mount is really wimpy....
even the lighter 1.8 will benefit a LOT from the APR snub. It's not THAT light =P
Do it. You won't believe what a nice difference it makes.
Do it. You won't believe what a nice difference it makes.
03-19-2002, 05:48 AM
#5
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I'm just a little concerned about introducing odd vibrations into the cabin.
Things rattle enough as it is, it would drive me insane to hear a rattle inside my car everytime I sit at a traffic light (as it is, that's the only peace I get right now). The damn B pillar is driving me crazy.
Can you feel any additional vibration through the steering wheel or the shifter that were not present before?
Can you feel any additional vibration through the steering wheel or the shifter that were not present before?
03-19-2002, 05:51 AM
#6
No vibrations at all. Interestingly, when I first did it, a slight creak developed in the cabin.....
sounded like plastic creaking. But it must have settled out. I don't hear it anymore.
There are no additional vibrations. Honestly, I can't think of a single negative to this thing.
There are no additional vibrations. Honestly, I can't think of a single negative to this thing.
03-19-2002, 05:53 AM
#7
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You know, I'm wondering if it's possible to measure the improvement? (silver streakin, pay attn!)
A friend of mine has a 2001 with about 15K on the clock, while my car is a 2000 with about 46K on the clock. I'm thinking...the next time we meet, we could attempt to measure (or at least observe) the differences in engine movement when throttle is applied (standing still). Problem is...I assume the engine will move MORE when it's under load (transmission engaged). It's really only possible to measure when the transmission is out of gear, which probably won't result in anything meaningful.
Just thinking out loud.
Just thinking out loud.
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