A4 (B5 Platform) Discussion Discussion forum for the B5 Audi A4 produced from 1995-2001 B5 FAQ

break issues

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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 05:14 PM
  #1  
unhgod's Avatar
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Default break issues

Background:
So I just bought my 98QM A4 about 3 months ago. I had been noticing that in the rain the break pedal felt a little different but it did not seem to be any slower than when it was dry.

Current:
2 days ago I had to brake hard to avoid rear ending someone but nothing really felt different for the rest of the ride. Yesterday, in the rain, i was going to and then coming back from york ME to NH and I noticed a grinding noise when i applied the breaks. I was not super loud and I still did not feel a difference in breaking time. I had a friend look at it when i got back but i was dark so he just felt the rotors and the back ones were both pretty rough and grooved compared to the front ones.

This morning I went out to see if it still made the noise because it was no longer raining, but when i went to check the brakes, one of the wheels were covered with what looked like rust. upon closer inspection, it turned out to be metal filings. Everyone i have talked to has said that my pad must have just warn all the way through.

So ill have the dealer look at it tomorrow, but my questions are: should i definintly not drive on it? How much would it cost to replace what needs to be replaced? Should i replace them with something better and what would you suggest and from where?
And the major question is, should the dealer have told me that my pads where thin and that I should get them replaced? I know the brakes are consumable parts and are not usually covered under warranty, but how am i supposed to know the pads were low when i passed inspection when i purchased the car? It had 65k on it when i bought it and it now has about 72k.

What do you all think i should do? Help and suggestions please!
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 05:21 PM
  #2  
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Default dealer prices are $$$ for brakes

figure $80 per rotor and $70 for rear pads
plus $200 for labor to put the above parts on the car.

So $430 plus tax for rear brakes.

if you have a clue and some tools you can do it yourself for a fraction of that.

you should really NOT be driving the car at this time as the car is technically unsafe and the brakes are compromised.
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 06:34 PM
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Default DIY. I just replaced my front rotors and pads in my garage...

Took me maybe and hour and a half start to finish. It's very easy and there are a couple of write ups in the tech section. As Q-Frog said, don't drive that car. You most likely won't be able to stop next time.
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 06:51 PM
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Default brake

replace them yourself
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 06:59 PM
  #5  
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Default where to buy

where do i buy what i need to to the job?
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 07:04 PM
  #6  
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Default Rotors I got from Q-Frog. Pads from ECS...

Or you can get both pads and rotors form ECS, Purems, Supreme power parts, AWE. All over the place. Very affordable.
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 08:53 PM
  #7  
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Default should i worry about what type...

of pads or rotors. This is pretty much just a daily driver, but i might eventually track it or do a driving class. I have read a little about slotted and drilled, are these something I should look at. Is there a particular brand that is better than another. Where have you all bought from when buying these items?

thanks for all the help
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Old Nov 1, 2004 | 05:44 AM
  #8  
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Default Just get solid rotors if it's a daily driver.....

Pads are a personal preference. Some love one pad while others hate the same thing. Bobcats seem to be a good set up from Purems. I run PBR Ceramics up front and Mintex Red box in the rear. Very happy with my braking. If you go to the track just get a different set of pads for the track day. Pretty easy swap. I have slotted and drilled rotors because I got a deal on them and like how the perform. Plain rotors can be turned later down the line if you need. Drilled or slotted can't. Hope that helps.
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