Matt248

I wanted to modify my 2001 A4, 2.8 30V, without changing any of the stock parts so I could easily switch back. I used the following parts:

RF1047 K&N cone filter ($40 from ajusa.com)
3" ID rubber hose (roadraceengineering.com) approximately 9" should be more than enough. Aprrox $12
Four .25" bolts, nuts, and washers (home depot) $1.50
Caulk (I used clear silicon) $2
E-Ram electric super charger (no filter, electricsupercharger.com) $299
Fernco silicon plumbing adapter hose (exactly the same as the one that comes with the e-ram. Cost: $5 at Home depot in the plumbing secion) approx 3.5" ID, 4.5"OD, 6" long.
18 gauge wire
female crimp ends (possibly male as well)
high quality duct tape
aluminum screening ($4 for a whole roll at home depot. Optional, but recommended)
small zip ties
30 amp fuses (glass tube style) $1
q-tips
foam, or cloth
rubberbands
electrical tape

Tools:

Flat screwdriver
Drill
Drill bits
Caulk gun
Assorted metric sockets and rachet
Utility knife
Hacksaw (if you have hard to cut tubing)

I will break the install up into two parts: intake and wiring.

INTAKE

1) Remove stock filter box, the shroud over the box, and the snorkel that pipes in cold air near the radiator.
2) Remove the mass flow unit by removing the four bolts to the filter box, unplugging the sensor wire, and unclamping from the ribbed pipe.
3) Cut a 6"X6" square of the aluminum screening. This will be used as a safety feature in case a fan blade or e-ram part were to fly apart and try to get into your engine.
4) Unhook the ribbed hose that is connected to the Audi intake manifold. Put the screen over the manifold hole and reattach the hose.
5) Cut a section of the three inch ID pipe, about 2.5 inches long. Stuff this into the stock Audi intake pipe (the ribbed one that connects to the manifold) and use the clamp provided. The purpose of this is an adaptor to the E-ram.
6) Cut off about 2" inches off the end of each Fernco silicon tube. Use these aprrox. 4" length silicon tubes to encase the blower (one section on each side), and connect to the adaptor pipe you created in step 5.
7) Cut off the ribbed portion of the K&N cone filter (approx 1 inch, leaving about .75" total lip around the filter). Do this carefully and make the cut surface as even as possible!
8) Align the mass flow intake hole to the hole in the K&N filter. Use this as a template to drill the hole pattern directly into the bottom of the K&N filter. Put washers on the four.25" bolts, push them through the holes from the inside of the K&N filter. Line up the mass flow unit and the filter opening, and snug up the bolts.
9) Put a nice caulk seal around the interface of the K&N filter and the mass flow sensor, using the q-tip to spread it. I also used the caulk to seal around the bolts in the filter bottom.
10) Now, you will have to take about a 2.5" length of the 3"ID tube and get it over the pipe coming out of the mass flow sensor. This was very hard to do, and I ended up boiling the 3" ID tubing to soften it.
11) At this point, you should be able to put everything together in a long straight assembly. It is a tight fit, if you make it slant downward. If you can not get it to fit, you may not have trimmed enough from the silicon tubes, or cut some of your 3"ID tube connectors too long. Try trimming these parts a little more.
12) There is a small intake hose that was attached to the stock airbox. I recommend you find a small air filter to attach to it, though it seems to only be used during cold starts. I am currently using a piece of foam rubberbanded to the hose....not real high tech, but I haven't have a chance to find a proper filter. I may try a lawnmower or motorcycle shop. You could also tie a piece of cloth over the hose as well until you find a better filtration method.


WIRING

The issues with wiring is the E-ram requires a throttle switch to activate at WOT. Since my 2001 has a TBW pedal, I decided to use the micro-switch provided by the E-ram kit and connect it near the pedal inside my car, without drilling hole or modifying anything. You should unhook the power during wiring to avoid accidentally using the blower and damaging your throttle body.

1) Remove the battery cover and the large shroud that surround the battery and covers the brake fluid reservoir.
2) Attach the E-Ram wires with the looped ends to your battery
3) Zip tie wire box just left (towards the drivers side) of the battery.
4) The wires from the wire box to the micro-switch are not long enough to route into the cabin. You will have to replace them with your 18guage wire, or extend them. I chose to replace them completely and used my crimp tool to put female ends on the wires.
5) Route the towards the drivers door. There is an area where the hood, door, and quarter panel come together. You can slip the wire through here and get into the doorjam. From here, you will find a rubber door seal with gray fabric on the inside. Pull this gently off the metal to create an opening. Fish the microswitch wires through. Press the seal back into place. You may want to tape or secure the wires in the doorjam to reduce their visibility.
6) Once the microswitch wires are inside, route them down and you can easily tuck the wires behind the pedals (hiding behind the carpet) and run the wires to the accelerator pedal.
7) There is a solid aluminum block where the pedal hits at full throttle. This is an excellent surface to mount the microswitch. It is out of the way and non-visible. In sticking with my non-drilling philosophy, I decided to use a very sticky tape to secure the switch to both the aluminum block and the vehicle carpet. I tested it a few times, it seemed solid. Position the switch so it activates when the pedal is fully depressed.
8) Put the shrouding back on, and use your zip ties as needed to make the wires look neat and professional. The shroud hides almost all the wires, except the two going to the eram unit.

Notes:

Once you have the system set up, you may want to unhook it from the engine and test the throttle switch with the power on. I do not recommend you do this while connected to the engine, especially if it is not running.

The way the intake is set up keeps the filter as far as possible from the engine. I put in some heat shielding, as well as used the stock snorkel, to keep the intake air as cool as possible around the cone.

I used electrical tape around all underhood wire connections to avoid corrosion or shorting.

If you find yourself blowing 30 amp uses when you activate your blower, it could be because the blower blades are jammed. Check to make sure none of your hoses interfere with the E-ram blades, or that you have not over tightened near the blades.

Obviously, make sure your Eram blower is forcing air INTO your engine, and not pulling it out. I don't imagine you would be pleased with your performance results if you reverse the direction.

DISCLAIMER

I'm obviously not responsible for you messing up your car, so take care in your modifications.

Dead

Didn't you forget something?

2heretic

I want to spam AW too!