Kingttr

accept a larger 3" MAF. That part turned out to be easier than finding the right reducer to go from 3" MAF to stock 2.5" TIP. The previous setup used a flimsy silicone reducer which was actually tucked inside the TIP. It was not able to support the pressure of the metal clamp, so the inside part (reducer) buckled.

So finally I found a new, solid, reducer part at pep boys for $11, which is absurd for what it is, but I it was the last part I needed, so be damned. The below picture shows going from the TIP, to the reducer (grey piece). Then the other end of reducer buts up against the 3" MAF housing. These are held together with a piece of the silicone reducer that was previously in use (cut off part of the wide end), and the two clamps on the right are on the reducer and MAF housing respectively. On the other end of the MAF housing I put an in and a half or so of tube that is the inner diameter of the MAF housings outside diameter. Several people mentioned doing this to straighten the air flow.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91268/img_0150.jpg">

The secondary air pump was relocated lower, so the intake part of it was pretty tought to get attached, but with a some pulling of the hose and pushing down of the air box I finally got them to connect. I was also able to leave the custom heatshield (PO bought from whoever was making and selling them on AZ few years back) which was a pleasant surprise as I actually do believe it has a possitive effect on keeping the air intake side cooler. Snorkel from rad support to airbox still fit perfectly with heat shield.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91268/img_0151.jpg">

Below is pics of the HKS cone filter that was on the car. No pics of it in the car actually. It went: 2.5" TIP, flimsy reducer, 3" MAF housing, 3" HKS cone filter (held together with silicone part/clamps). And a small breather part for secondary air intake (shiny silver thing next to big filter in bottom left) The filter always looked really dirty, it is actually competely spotless inside, so it looks like it was actually doing a really good job of filtering air. The pics are self explanatory.

Solaris asked about the filter a long time ago (for testing purposes) so its his if he wants it. Otherwise anyone can have it for shipping. And the metal breather part for secondary air (if your car has it). 3" filter inlet.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91268/hks_filter_composite.jpg">

I am just thrilled that I was finally able to source all the parts I needed. Oh also, I got to go update myself with a tetanis shot, gouged myself twice with rusty screw driver (hmm maybe in end would have been cheaper to have it installed by shop). The car sounds so much nicer now, no ricey BOV-esk sound when I shift. Can hear the turbo spooling, but otherwise the car is pretty quite until you get on it. (borla still a bit loud..) To those considering CA intakes (cone filter), don't do it, unless of course it is necessary to make room for BT!

Kingttr

please let me know if anything looks out of sorts. (as well as the rest of the engine bay for that matter - i.e. vac lines/valves. I think everything is as it should be (besides dipstick).

Solaris

so no more experiments. Thanks, though.

Ray Khan

if there is anything interesting to see inside the airbox in this regard, can you post some pics?

Kingttr

Alright, sounds good, just wanted to make sure you got it if wanted it. "No more experiments." Ha..

Solaris

yeah, it runs good, I don't need more power out of it, I just want it to keep running good

Kingttr

MAF housing to the grey reducer piece) is clamped firmly around the outside of the MAF housing. This along with the MAF plug (and rubber cap that is seen coming out the top of the airbox) keep the MAF housing in place. I did not use anything else to support the MAF, as the stock MAF was not supported by anything. Is this a potential problem I should look into fixing?

Removing the top part of the airbox would require undoing the clamps from the TIP to the reducer which was a huge pain in the *** to align, squeeze on there, and tighten (this is where my rusty screw driver wounds came from) as well as the SAI intake.

The long and the short, I don't think there is anything too special or unique inside the airbox. The hardest part of all this was going from 3" MAF housing to 2.5" TIP in about an inch of space.

The TT225 MAF works really well because it is so similar to the stock MAF. I don't know that other custom MAF's would fit very well, the 3" opening is about as big as it can be enlarged to.

Kingttr

Yeah, thats about where I am at this point. Keeping everything status quo..

Ray Khan

I recall my maf was held in the box with 2 screws...that's all.

Kingttr

very obvious as the TIP/reducer will just be hanging there as opposed to connected to the airbox via clamps/MAF housing