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How do you test a combi valve?

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Old 05-30-2009, 10:11 AM
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Default How do you test a combi valve?

I am getting code 16795 and failed emmisions first try here in Virginia. "Secondary Air Injection Not Ready" So I think it might be the combi valve, any help? Thanks!...Max
Old 05-31-2009, 01:00 PM
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Please, Some has to know or can point me in the direction of how to test a 1.8T (AWM) Combi-Valve?
Old 06-03-2009, 03:29 PM
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Well... I'm not sure how you'd test the valve itself, but you can test the pump by disconnecting the hose at the pump. It's easily accessible from the bottom on the passenger side front. If your pump is working, replace the valve. If the pump isn't working you'll have to replace the valve as well. Might also want to check the wiring to the pump while you're down there. Could be that was well. Good luck!
Old 09-28-2009, 03:37 PM
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Well...I investigated and found that the combi valves probably get dirty and stick....instead of failing.

I had the same fault code as many complain about : "Secondary air injection pump - incorrect flow detected."

I decided to take the combi valve off and see whats up with it.

Dirty is an understatement. There was so much soot, congealed oil and carbon inside it that it took over an hour of spraying it with carb cleaner to clean most of the dirt.

Once clean, I inspected the pipes leading to the combi valve and found even more soot and carbon buildup. However I couldn't clean those pipes sufficiently. Plus I don't think carb cleaner in the pipes is good for the engine.

I put the combi valve back on, waited till the engine got cold again and started the car. The SAIP still sounded like a Dirt Devil.

So either the vaccume line is not doing its job or the pipes leading to the combi valve are plugged.

I run 91 octane in my car...i don't understand where all of this carbon buildup came from.
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Old 09-28-2009, 05:41 PM
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There are a number of things you need to do...
First check fuse.
Second check vac lines.

Do you have access to VAG.com?
If so, run an output test.
I think the second and third test hits the SAP components. You should hear your SAP cycle on and off...if not, first replace the SAP relay located in the ECU box...only @$10. (This fixed my problem).
After replacing relay, if SAP does not cycle on/off, you may need to replace the SAP.

Code may also be casued by a vac leak. There are 2 SAP flexible plastic hoses that will crack over time. One goes from the airbox to the SAP. The other goes from the SAP to the Combi. Disconnect both at both ends and inspect. I missed a crack in mine until I fully disconnected it. Replace if necessary...@$60ea

Next, you could check your Combi. You will need something that can apply vacuum, such as a Mity Vac.
Disconnect the vac hose from the right side of the Combi. Now disconnect the flexible plastic hose at the SAP (the one that goes to the left hand side of the Combi) Blow thru the hose from the SAP side...you should not be able to blow thru. Now apply vacuum to the right side of the Combi. Try to blow again from the same spot...you should be able to blow thru. If this does not work...your Combi may be gunked up. You may be able to shoot some carb cleaner into the right and left sides without taking it off.
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