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Mystery Cable motor swap

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Old 02-25-2011, 05:34 AM
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I thought of that, as the plus looked like a fit. But I thought the CPS wire was part of the harness for the injectors. Maybe it is on some car and not others.

FWIW, I looked at the engine I have down in the shop: the harness is missing.

I have no answers for you. Fail.
Old 02-25-2011, 05:38 AM
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I have no time this morning, but I am going to stop by where the car is just to see. I'll let you know.
Old 02-26-2011, 03:14 PM
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I haven't started it yet, but today I got everything plugged back in. I'm confident it's to the bank 1 cam pos sensor. Exact same plug as the bank 2 cps in the rear on that side. And everything is now plugged in. If I'm wrong I'll find out tomorrow when I start it.
Old 03-11-2011, 06:12 AM
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The new ATQ (former AHA) idles pretty nice now. The dry engine noise has pretty much quieted as 4driver4 predicted in this thread. But....when I hit the gas it starts missing and sputtering. Let off the gas and it still sputters. VAG-COM gives me all sorts of mulitple misfire codes and codes on specific cylinders. But no codes explaining the misfires.

One of the things I missed in the swap is the knock sensors. On the ATQ they have brown plugs, on the AHA they are blue. So I have blue knock sensors plugged into a brown plug on the harness as you can see in the first picture in this thread.

Are the knock sensors that different? When I hit the gas is the advance screwed up and I'm getting wet plugs/cylinders?
Old 03-11-2011, 10:15 AM
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Sounds like it needs a throttle adaptation. VAG-COM required. I don't remember the procedure off the top of my head, but I know I found it somewhere with google last time I needed it.

Beware of threads that tell you to just turn the key on and wait few seconds; that only works for drive-by-wire systems. It's more complex with the cable stuff.

Good luck
Old 03-11-2011, 11:21 AM
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Yea I thought so too. Did a TBA twice with VAG-COM last night. Used this recipe from Ross Tech.
Turn the key on but do not start the car.
[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Enter Group 060 (may be Group 098 on some cable-throttle cars)
[Go!]
[Switch to basic settings]
Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB
adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in basic mode for about 30 seconds, then switch back to normal settings and you're all set.
It went through it's stuff for about 45 seconds. I still get same results. Idles fine till you spin the motor. Then it misses badly and throws the misfire codes.
Old 03-11-2011, 12:25 PM
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Can you hear it cycle? Throwing any codes? Got a spare TB?
Old 03-11-2011, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Driver4
Can you hear it cycle?
Yes. It clicks and whirrs for about 45 seconds, then it stops.

Originally Posted by 4Driver4
Throwing any codes?
Just misfire codes. Random misfire and indivual cylinder misfires. Oh, and secondary air pump codes on both banks, but that's a separate problem right?

Originally Posted by 4Driver4
Got a spare TB?
Yes, but it's a cable throttle TB. I need a DBW TB.
Old 03-11-2011, 01:03 PM
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Weird. Your symptoms are classic TBA issues. Vacuum leak or something?
Old 03-11-2011, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Driver4
Weird. Your symptoms are classic TBA issues. Vacuum leak or something?
Vacuum leak would show in VAG-COM as an "18711 - Leak in Air Intake System" or something like that wouldn't it? I'm not discounting the idea though. After an engine swap it's a high probability.

I could steal a DBW TB off a buddy's 2001 A4 1.8T. Is it the same TB?


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