Need a hand!!! alright i changed all my vac lines, tested comb vavle, changed secondary pump
#1
Need a hand!!! alright i changed all my vac lines, tested comb vavle, changed secondary pump
but i am still getting these codes:
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
P0411 - 35-00 - -
17521 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S1: Internal Resistance too High
P1113 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17522 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S2: Internal Resistance too High
P1114 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
i've searched and cant seem to find anything can it just be an o2 sensor or is there a vag-com route?
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
P0411 - 35-00 - -
17521 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S1: Internal Resistance too High
P1113 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17522 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S2: Internal Resistance too High
P1114 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
i've searched and cant seem to find anything can it just be an o2 sensor or is there a vag-com route?
#2
the two lambda codes mean that your first O2 sensors (both bank 1 and 2)
are shot... and the secondary air injection stuff is there to help with the O2 warm up I *think* (good chance I'm wrong on that one, not entirely sure)... so it might go away w/ replacement of the O2 sensors.
bottom line though, you need two pre-cat o2 sensors
bottom line though, you need two pre-cat o2 sensors
#4
No, it's probably just one of them, here's how to know for sure
He's got a 1.8, so B1 S1 and B1 S2 mean the pre-cat and post-cat sensors (there's only B1 in a 4-cyl).
The O2 sensor codes are related to the heater circuit. The way our ECUs are wired, they use a shared circuit for the heaters of both sensors on a given bank, so it will always throw both of those codes even if only one of them is bad (it simply can't tell).
You can test each sensor's heater with a meter. Unplug the sensor at the firewall, and then measure the resistance between pins 1 and 2.
Holding the connector with the group of three pins on the right, pin one is the farthest to the right.
If the resistance is higher than 20 ohms, the sensor needs to be replaced. There is a remote possibility that both of your sensors are bad, but chances are it's just the one.
Change the bad sensor, clear the codes, and see if the other one comes back.
The O2 sensor codes are related to the heater circuit. The way our ECUs are wired, they use a shared circuit for the heaters of both sensors on a given bank, so it will always throw both of those codes even if only one of them is bad (it simply can't tell).
You can test each sensor's heater with a meter. Unplug the sensor at the firewall, and then measure the resistance between pins 1 and 2.
Holding the connector with the group of three pins on the right, pin one is the farthest to the right.
If the resistance is higher than 20 ohms, the sensor needs to be replaced. There is a remote possibility that both of your sensors are bad, but chances are it's just the one.
Change the bad sensor, clear the codes, and see if the other one comes back.
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#8
Did you check/change that black plastic tube that connects the pump to the metal tube that..
is connected to the kombi valve? I know mine had a crack in it, they are prone to breaking, and would give you the 16795 code.
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