NSE PowerGasket, surprising result in engine smoothness with Tip tranny (Only for Tiptronic owners).
10-06-2003, 07:28 PM
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NSE PowerGasket, surprising result in engine smoothness with Tip tranny (Only for Tiptronic owners).
Purchased the gasket from ECS Tuning and installed it and the Valve Cover Gasket about 2 wks ago.
Here's what I found:
1)Since the Tip Tranny, in Auto mode, usually shifts around 2200 to 2000 rpm, I have always felt (thru the seat back) the Bosch/APR Firmware making sudden changes to the ignition timing at anything from 5 inches of Hg to any boost pressure (can't prove that the timing is the source of the it though). To me, it felt like a misfire (I'm a DIY tune-up guy from the days of carbureted engines) Anyway, I thought I'd give the PowerGasket a shot, since my intake manifold seemed too hot to the touch and thought the extra heat might be causing the knock sensor to "go-off". Now, I only feel the ECU screwing with the timing under prolonged stop and go traffic conditions (the radiator fan heats the intake manifold while the car is stopped).
2)While doing the Valve Cover Gasket, I looked for wear on the hydraulic CHAIN tensioner rubbing block, since I've read on this forum it can be a problem. I was surprised to see that it was barely worn. This is on a 1.8T AEB engine with 68K miles and it looks like it would last a quarter million miles. Don't know if the synth oil has anything to do with it, but I've always used Mobil 1, 10w-30, but switched to 5w-30 this last year and a half.
BTW, installation of the PowerGasket does NOT require the coolant pipe to be removed (at least on a 99.5).
Vic 99.5 1.8T Tip APR Stg 1, VDO Boost Gauge
Here's what I found:
1)Since the Tip Tranny, in Auto mode, usually shifts around 2200 to 2000 rpm, I have always felt (thru the seat back) the Bosch/APR Firmware making sudden changes to the ignition timing at anything from 5 inches of Hg to any boost pressure (can't prove that the timing is the source of the it though). To me, it felt like a misfire (I'm a DIY tune-up guy from the days of carbureted engines) Anyway, I thought I'd give the PowerGasket a shot, since my intake manifold seemed too hot to the touch and thought the extra heat might be causing the knock sensor to "go-off". Now, I only feel the ECU screwing with the timing under prolonged stop and go traffic conditions (the radiator fan heats the intake manifold while the car is stopped).
2)While doing the Valve Cover Gasket, I looked for wear on the hydraulic CHAIN tensioner rubbing block, since I've read on this forum it can be a problem. I was surprised to see that it was barely worn. This is on a 1.8T AEB engine with 68K miles and it looks like it would last a quarter million miles. Don't know if the synth oil has anything to do with it, but I've always used Mobil 1, 10w-30, but switched to 5w-30 this last year and a half.
BTW, installation of the PowerGasket does NOT require the coolant pipe to be removed (at least on a 99.5).
Vic 99.5 1.8T Tip APR Stg 1, VDO Boost Gauge
10-06-2003, 07:47 PM
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Well, 1st it wasn't the head gasket, but the valve cover gasket. Anyway...
I put the RTV Sealant on the four places as shown on the Bentley CD-ROM, PLUS a thin coat on the cam "half-moon".
The PCV pipe has to be removed from the control valve at the turbo intake tube, to be able to lift the cover off.
I must have done a good job... it's not leaking.
The PCV pipe has to be removed from the control valve at the turbo intake tube, to be able to lift the cover off.
I must have done a good job... it's not leaking.
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10-07-2003, 06:10 AM
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No, no mods required to the studs/bolts. Took about 2.8 hrs...
Including lightly coating both sides of the PowerGasket with RTV. I used Permatex's Ultra Copper Hi-Temp, just because I had that laying around (and yes it is O2 sensor safe).
Only problem I ran into was getting enough freedom of movement on the intake manifold to lift it past the two outboard studs (99.5 model yr). By unfastening the power brake vac line at the coolant pipe, I was able to lift the manifold high enough.
BTW, NO mods are required to the intake manifold Support Rod, just make sure to loosen the bottom so that the rod can be repositioned a little higher.
Additionally, the Fuel Injector Rail, complete with injectors and cable harness, was removed with just two nuts/bolts.
Only problem I ran into was getting enough freedom of movement on the intake manifold to lift it past the two outboard studs (99.5 model yr). By unfastening the power brake vac line at the coolant pipe, I was able to lift the manifold high enough.
BTW, NO mods are required to the intake manifold Support Rod, just make sure to loosen the bottom so that the rod can be repositioned a little higher.
Additionally, the Fuel Injector Rail, complete with injectors and cable harness, was removed with just two nuts/bolts.