Timing Belt install problems
12-23-2007, 03:04 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Timing Belt install problems
Ok, I F'ed up somewhere big time. I just installed a timing belt / water pump replacement kit, tried turning the engine over, and it won't start.
My guess is that I'm off by a tooth, or the tensioner isn't adjusted right, but at this point I'm so pissed off I can't think straight.
Any suggestions for how to proceed? Remove everything to see if the marks are still aligned, or is there a better way to figure it out?
Also, since I disconnected the power steering lines to pull the radiator, there's no fluid in the power steering system right now...would that have any impact in whether or not the engine will turn over? I doubt it, but thought I'd ask... I'll fill it up when I get the timing issue fixed...
Hopefully I don't have bent valves...<sigh>
TIA,
My guess is that I'm off by a tooth, or the tensioner isn't adjusted right, but at this point I'm so pissed off I can't think straight.
Any suggestions for how to proceed? Remove everything to see if the marks are still aligned, or is there a better way to figure it out?
Also, since I disconnected the power steering lines to pull the radiator, there's no fluid in the power steering system right now...would that have any impact in whether or not the engine will turn over? I doubt it, but thought I'd ask... I'll fill it up when I get the timing issue fixed...
Hopefully I don't have bent valves...<sigh>
TIA,
12-23-2007, 03:53 PM
#2
AudiWorld Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Timing Belt install problems
Not sure about Audi's but some motors will run if you are off just a single tooth, it will run rough but it will run. Make sure you have spark and fuel before taking it all apart.
12-23-2007, 03:54 PM
#3
You should try (and be able to) manually turn the engine using socket. Do this before trying to
actually start the engine.
Power steering fluid would have no impact.
If the engine didnt crank or do anything then valves shouldnt (couldnt) bend. Unless they were bent before. Car ran fine prior to job right?
If you can't manually turn engine/crank then timing is probably off.
Did you mark the belt (old and new) and the teeth on crank before taking it apart? As long as you marked everything its pretty hard to mess it up.
Power steering fluid would have no impact.
If the engine didnt crank or do anything then valves shouldnt (couldnt) bend. Unless they were bent before. Car ran fine prior to job right?
If you can't manually turn engine/crank then timing is probably off.
Did you mark the belt (old and new) and the teeth on crank before taking it apart? As long as you marked everything its pretty hard to mess it up.
12-23-2007, 04:15 PM
#4
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: You should try (and be able to) manually turn the engine using socket. Do this before trying to
Yes, the car ran fine before doing the install. The water pump was leaking...that's why I was doing the job in the first place.
I had marked the camshaft and the crankshaft before pulling the origninal belt, but I didn't mark the belt itself. I didn't realize I needed to...
When I got the belt installed, I turned the engine manually once, and it looked like everything was still lined up.
Here's why I think I screwed up by a tooth...
I'm basically second-guessing the notch I put on the crankshaft. I did it like the tech write-up, and scratched a ^ to point to where the metal extrustion thing above it ends on the right hand side... I just wonder if I did it that way, or if I just scratched the mark to be straight up instead of slightly to the right. (sorry, kind of hard to explain...but if you've done the job, you probably know what I'm describing...)
I had marked the camshaft and the crankshaft before pulling the origninal belt, but I didn't mark the belt itself. I didn't realize I needed to...
When I got the belt installed, I turned the engine manually once, and it looked like everything was still lined up.
Here's why I think I screwed up by a tooth...
I'm basically second-guessing the notch I put on the crankshaft. I did it like the tech write-up, and scratched a ^ to point to where the metal extrustion thing above it ends on the right hand side... I just wonder if I did it that way, or if I just scratched the mark to be straight up instead of slightly to the right. (sorry, kind of hard to explain...but if you've done the job, you probably know what I'm describing...)
12-23-2007, 04:27 PM
#5
I see. Given that you did manually turn engine and it was fine, not sure if timing could be off. I
was under the impression (from using the Tech article, which I assume you followed as well) that if it is easy to turn the engine manually that everything should be good.
About the tooth/scratch mark. I chose to not use the method suggested (scratching mark/arrow). Instead I used nail polish to mark the teeth on the old belt and marked where they lined up on cranshaft (then pulled belt, and marked new belt w/ nail polish (carefully counting teeth etc to make sure correct). The long and short, I did not use the method you did, but I think I understand what you are saying.
Hate to say it, but you may need to pull belt/tensioner. Hopefully someone else will chime in with other possible problems/solutions.
It just doesnt make sense to me that timing is off (by more than a tooth) given you were able to manually crank it.
Does the car turn and not start? Or you turn the key and NOTHING happens?
About the tooth/scratch mark. I chose to not use the method suggested (scratching mark/arrow). Instead I used nail polish to mark the teeth on the old belt and marked where they lined up on cranshaft (then pulled belt, and marked new belt w/ nail polish (carefully counting teeth etc to make sure correct). The long and short, I did not use the method you did, but I think I understand what you are saying.
Hate to say it, but you may need to pull belt/tensioner. Hopefully someone else will chime in with other possible problems/solutions.
It just doesnt make sense to me that timing is off (by more than a tooth) given you were able to manually crank it.
Does the car turn and not start? Or you turn the key and NOTHING happens?
12-23-2007, 04:42 PM
#7
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When I turn the key to start it...
the starter churns and it sounds like it's trying to turn over, but it won't. I guess I'm wondering if it is off by a tooth, would this be a likely symptom? Or should it turn over and just run rough?
Trending Topics
12-23-2007, 04:43 PM
#8
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
valium...
Valium doesn't mix well with timing belts either, so I think I'll wait until tomorrow ;-)
Yeah, I'm pretty frustrated, so I defintely need to remove myself from the problem and see if y'all can point me in the right direction...
Good advice though...thx.
Yeah, I'm pretty frustrated, so I defintely need to remove myself from the problem and see if y'all can point me in the right direction...
Good advice though...thx.
12-23-2007, 06:38 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
1. E-mail me your phone number.
2. Did you plug the cam sensor back in?
3. Did you do any other work.. pull the airbox for any reason?
4. Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow. Four cycle engine. Pull a plug, check for spark, check for compression.
Chill. Just a car, you are smarter than it. You can figure this out. I have spare valve if you did bend them
3. Did you do any other work.. pull the airbox for any reason?
4. Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow. Four cycle engine. Pull a plug, check for spark, check for compression.
Chill. Just a car, you are smarter than it. You can figure this out. I have spare valve if you did bend them
