What is the theory/technique behind subframe alignment to "equalize" camber
 

I have about -1.2 degrees negative camber on my front left (from memory)and I am getting some more wear on the inside corner of only that tire after 11K miles (yes i should have rotated sooner). Anyway, I am interested in this camber equalization I have read about in the archives.

I presume that if you shift the front subframe to the right side of the car, you will generate more negative camber on the right and less on the left, which is what I need.

Has anyone tried to do this themselves?
I would probably jsut move it a little and then take it to an alignment shop after. The alignment shosp I have talked to won't do this. I assume the dealer will but haven't checked on the cost of it.

Thanks for the help.

Ashok

This needs to be done on an alignment machine. You can only make both sides equal...
 

and only very slightly, if one side is way off, and one is dead on, you will make both off by moving the subframe.

This is a limitation of the design.

I believe Nate has had this done. Maybe he can chime in.

I've done it successfully.
 

I use 2 bubble camber gauges mounted to the wheels. The goal is simply to shift the frame until both bubbles are level. Then have an alignment shop fix the toe.

I have done it, it really only give you about 1-1.5 degrees tho.

Thanks Mike... How did you shift the subframe--prybar? (more)
 

I presume you loosened the 4 subframe bolts first. At that point did you lower the car to the ground? Or did you shift the subframe first and then lower to make your camber measurements?

Thanks.

Ashok

also, was the direction of shift stated in my first post correct?
 

since the lower arms are mounted to the subrame, it makes sense that shifting the subframe towards a particular wheel will increase that wheel's negative camber.

That's correct.

a comment....
 

You might check to see that the subframe is properly aligned first. There are a number of holes on the corners/edges of the frame in which you stick an alignment pin in, then torque up the subframe bolts. I forget the size. You could just mic it out and use multiple pieces of bar stock. There is an audi factory tool for this, but I can't find it right now. Apologies.
It also worth checking the subframe bushings. They might be so collapsed that they won't hold an effective or proper alignment to factory spec anymore.

Problem with DIY is the frame will move freely around in all directions. So it you are not careful
 

you can move it slightly diagonally and affect caster. This will cause your car to pull to a corner.

Best bet if you can't find an alignment shop who can move the subframe around (a pry bar is all that is needed while monitoring the alignment numbers), then go to the dealer.