B6 steering rack woes (replace with B7?)
11-29-2010, 01:22 PM
#1
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B6 steering rack woes (replace with B7?)
I replaced the original steering rack in my 2003 3.0 quattro sedan at about 55k miles with a rebuilt one from Cardone. The original was leaking internally into the rubber boots and I wasn't about to fork over $1000+ to the dealer. Now I'm at about 60k miles and the rebuilt rack just blew an internal seal and is doing the same thing.
I shouldn't have any trouble getting mine replaced by Cardone as I've only had it for 6-8 months, but I'm wondering if there is something else afoot. I have heard that the steering rack/pump is a common issue with B6s. This seems to be more prevalent in the cold, and sure enough this happened during the first 20~° stint we've had. Is there a pressure issue or something that destroys steering rack seals? Could it be the fluid getting too thick in the cold and not flowing through a return line well enough?
Next I'm wondering if the B7 rack can work as a suitable replacement and if it has the same specifications. I've read that it can be and that it may be better than the B6, but haven't found a specific answer, just anecdotal information. I saw this thread but it didn't state specifically if it was doable. I have the Koyo rack. I don't have the VIN with me at the moment or know if there is a servo/speed sensitive device on my rack.
Any information or advice is appreciated! Thank you.
I shouldn't have any trouble getting mine replaced by Cardone as I've only had it for 6-8 months, but I'm wondering if there is something else afoot. I have heard that the steering rack/pump is a common issue with B6s. This seems to be more prevalent in the cold, and sure enough this happened during the first 20~° stint we've had. Is there a pressure issue or something that destroys steering rack seals? Could it be the fluid getting too thick in the cold and not flowing through a return line well enough?
Next I'm wondering if the B7 rack can work as a suitable replacement and if it has the same specifications. I've read that it can be and that it may be better than the B6, but haven't found a specific answer, just anecdotal information. I saw this thread but it didn't state specifically if it was doable. I have the Koyo rack. I don't have the VIN with me at the moment or know if there is a servo/speed sensitive device on my rack.
Any information or advice is appreciated! Thank you.
11-29-2010, 01:46 PM
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Can't answer your question about upgrade of the rack, but am in the same boat. I also my have a screwed up pump from running the wrong fluid for too long. Having not been able to find the "mineral" based fluid in a pinch, I bought whatever I could find and now may have 2 problems. My question for you is what fluid are running? If you are running anything other than the mineral based, you may have too much pressure in the system thus popping the seals. Or, it may be a crappy rack. Have just started looking into this and all I know is the dealer wants $800 for a rebuilt rack!
On a side question, did you replace the rack that is on it now? If so how hard was it. On par with a TB?
On a side question, did you replace the rack that is on it now? If so how hard was it. On par with a TB?
11-29-2010, 04:14 PM
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I bought the car at 49k miles and the fluid it had in it appeared to be brown. I flushed it completely with green OEM Audi fluid after I started hearing noise the first winter (noise went away after flush). At some point after that was when I noticed the leak on the original rack (not sure exactly when, but within a year). Replaced it with the rebuilt rack and topped it off with OEM fluid. It's possible non-OEM fluid could have prematurely damaged the original rack, and perhaps poor replacement seals could have doomed the second rack. My luck with this car hasn't been stellar to say the least.
I did the removal and install myself. The first time was pretty aggravating. The hardest part is when you have to get the rack into or out of position. Getting to all the bolts isn't too bad. After doing the removal and install 3 complete times I have gotten really good at it. The reason I did it 3 times was because Cardone sent incorrectly-assembled racks the first two times (the steering shaft was off by 180°). I had to call the tech, who then realized that they were assembling them incorrectly. Needless to say I don't have a ton of faith in them and it is possible the seal was not installed perfectly.
Some tricks that will help with the uninstall and install:
Use a floor jack under the driver's side suspension to lift it until it is fully compressed (but not enough to lift the car off the jack stands). Then use a strap to hold the driver's suspension fully turned to the left. This gets the upper arm out of the way as much as possible. Do this after disconnecting the tie rods.
When installing or removing the rack, I rotate it 45° counter-clockwise (the shaft will be aiming up and to the right), which I found to be the best way to get it in and out. One of the P/S lines runs in a coil that will probably be in the way a lot. I had to firmly push it to the side to get the rack past it. I've noticed on all the rebuilt racks I've seen, the two lines that run along the body were always mangled up, indicating that other people were not having a fun time removing the racks. I managed to get my rack in and out without damaging anything. When removing it, I did find it easier to unfasten the two lines on the driver's end. Going in required a bit of squeezing.
I've heard people say that it is an easy job. It is for me now, but the first time was very difficult. I've done the timing belt and water pump replacement (with rental tools from Blauparts) and I would say that job takes longer but is less aggravating. It all boils down to how easily you can get the rack past the suspension I think. It will feel like there isn't enough clearance, but it can be done.
I did the removal and install myself. The first time was pretty aggravating. The hardest part is when you have to get the rack into or out of position. Getting to all the bolts isn't too bad. After doing the removal and install 3 complete times I have gotten really good at it. The reason I did it 3 times was because Cardone sent incorrectly-assembled racks the first two times (the steering shaft was off by 180°). I had to call the tech, who then realized that they were assembling them incorrectly. Needless to say I don't have a ton of faith in them and it is possible the seal was not installed perfectly.
Some tricks that will help with the uninstall and install:
Use a floor jack under the driver's side suspension to lift it until it is fully compressed (but not enough to lift the car off the jack stands). Then use a strap to hold the driver's suspension fully turned to the left. This gets the upper arm out of the way as much as possible. Do this after disconnecting the tie rods.
When installing or removing the rack, I rotate it 45° counter-clockwise (the shaft will be aiming up and to the right), which I found to be the best way to get it in and out. One of the P/S lines runs in a coil that will probably be in the way a lot. I had to firmly push it to the side to get the rack past it. I've noticed on all the rebuilt racks I've seen, the two lines that run along the body were always mangled up, indicating that other people were not having a fun time removing the racks. I managed to get my rack in and out without damaging anything. When removing it, I did find it easier to unfasten the two lines on the driver's end. Going in required a bit of squeezing.
I've heard people say that it is an easy job. It is for me now, but the first time was very difficult. I've done the timing belt and water pump replacement (with rental tools from Blauparts) and I would say that job takes longer but is less aggravating. It all boils down to how easily you can get the rack past the suspension I think. It will feel like there isn't enough clearance, but it can be done.
11-29-2010, 10:37 PM
#4
steering rack
the b7 will work perfectly,
always make sure you get the ZF instead of KOYO,
koyo units fail at least 10 to 1 compared to ZF, in the future flush the fluid every 40k miles, I can assure you your rack will last well over 100k
always make sure you get the ZF instead of KOYO,
koyo units fail at least 10 to 1 compared to ZF, in the future flush the fluid every 40k miles, I can assure you your rack will last well over 100k
11-30-2010, 08:10 AM
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Interesting. I had thought the Koyo and ZF were not completely compatible. I would prefer ZF. Do you know if I need to get a specific B7 rack? Maybe I'll see if Cardone can supply me with a rebuilt ZF rack instead of Koyo. That is assuming I am unable to return their defective rack outright, in which case I may look for a good used B7 rack.
I actually work at a ZF dealer (marine). Unfortunately I don't have access to the automotive side (ZF is very protective of its dealer network).
I actually work at a ZF dealer (marine). Unfortunately I don't have access to the automotive side (ZF is very protective of its dealer network).
12-01-2010, 03:52 AM
#6
AudiWorld Super User
Hey siegen, thanks for the tips. That is the sort of thing I was looking for. I am now in the process of deciding where to source the rack. Still looking, but sounds like ZF is the way to go if starting from scratch.
12-07-2010, 10:44 AM
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An update:
Cardon sent a replacement rack, but it ended up being clocked incorrectly again. So my parts guy talked to the rep and straightened it out. The rep didn't know why a bulletin wasn't posted from the previous times when they clocked the racks wrong. Anyway, I tried to get Cardon to refund my money outright, but they would not and overnighted me out another rebuilt rack. This one was clocked correctly and appeared to be nicer than the others. I installed it and it is working.
Just for reference, I was able to find some information about OEM ZF racks on this site: http://webcat-services.zf.com. You can change it to English on the bottom bar. Click on Quick Search and enter your car information, then you can browse a list of ZF parts and get original part numbers and such. You can refine the search to specific brands and cataegories. ZF calls the steering rack a "Steering Gear", and there are numerous listed depending on vehicle configuration (left hand drive, right hand drive, with or without servotronic). This may help if anyone is looking to source a part through a friend or someone who works for ZF Automotive or a distributor.
Cardon sent a replacement rack, but it ended up being clocked incorrectly again. So my parts guy talked to the rep and straightened it out. The rep didn't know why a bulletin wasn't posted from the previous times when they clocked the racks wrong. Anyway, I tried to get Cardon to refund my money outright, but they would not and overnighted me out another rebuilt rack. This one was clocked correctly and appeared to be nicer than the others. I installed it and it is working.
Just for reference, I was able to find some information about OEM ZF racks on this site: http://webcat-services.zf.com. You can change it to English on the bottom bar. Click on Quick Search and enter your car information, then you can browse a list of ZF parts and get original part numbers and such. You can refine the search to specific brands and cataegories. ZF calls the steering rack a "Steering Gear", and there are numerous listed depending on vehicle configuration (left hand drive, right hand drive, with or without servotronic). This may help if anyone is looking to source a part through a friend or someone who works for ZF Automotive or a distributor.
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12-28-2011, 07:49 AM
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B7 rack fits B6
Thank you everyone for your contribution to this thread. I installed a B7 rack in my B6 yesterday. Everything fits fine. However I have 2 concerns. 1 The steering feel is firm like there is no power assist. 2 there is a small amount of play. 
The B7 rack I got has the servo-tronic hook up, but my b6 does not have this so I left it out. Could this affect the firmness of the steering feel?
What are possible reasons I feel the play in the rack? Hopefully this isn't a damaged or bad rack.
Thank you for your replies. This is still the best forum for Audi. I've been away for a few years. It's good to be back
The B7 rack I got has the servo-tronic hook up, but my b6 does not have this so I left it out. Could this affect the firmness of the steering feel?
What are possible reasons I feel the play in the rack? Hopefully this isn't a damaged or bad rack.
Thank you for your replies. This is still the best forum for Audi. I've been away for a few years. It's good to be back
01-03-2012, 09:48 AM
#10
AudiWorld Super User
I just replaced the rack on mine 2 weeks ago with a $650 ZF unit from ECS and everything feels as before. Steep, but am very pleased with the results. So, no answer to your issues except to offer that the servo assist delete may be the cause of what you are feeling as Audi probably made internal changes...but that is conjecture.