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Coolant Leak near oil pan

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Old 09-08-2011, 07:42 PM
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Default Coolant Leak near oil pan

For the past month I've had a small coolant leak. It only leaks after the car has warmed up and then sits for a few hours. The only evidence I can find is pink crusties on the oil pan. I was wondering if anyone has some ideas as to where the leak may be coming from (thermostat, water pump, etc). Thanks.
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:46 PM
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The type of car might help... it's a 2005 A4 1.8t.
Old 09-08-2011, 08:58 PM
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Going to take a stab at it, Your "O" ring on your water pump is shot...
Old 09-08-2011, 11:14 PM
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Default Leak

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Old 09-09-2011, 06:14 AM
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Thanks, I was really hoping for a t-stat o-ring (which I replaced last year) or j-plug verdict. The location of the water pump looks spot on for my problem. The most difficult job I've tackled to date was the t-stat, do you feel the timing belt/water pump is something I should take on myself?
Old 09-09-2011, 07:17 PM
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If you thought that the T-stat was a hard job, leave the timing belt/water pump to the pros...

From a scale of 1 to 10...its about a 8 with the wrong tools, and a 5 with the correct tools...
Old 09-10-2011, 10:01 PM
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What special tools are needed for a timing belt/water pump?
Old 09-11-2011, 02:14 PM
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You don't necessarily need any special tools to change the timing belt and water pump. I am currently in the process of doing it for the 2nd time in two years. My water pump just failed and it appears to be the bearing on the shaft. I lost all of my coolant the other day while driving. You can order a complete timing belt replacement kit online which will also include a new water pump, serpentine belt and coolant http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GH21133. Just make sure you get the correct length serpentine belt. There is a 1570 and a 1590mm belt. My car is a 2005 A4 1.8T and I was told it took a 1570 but it actually took a 1590mm Check to see if your original belt still has the numbers on it. There are plenty of DIY write ups with detailed instructions on how to perform this replacement. It's not an easy job but can be accomplished in one day.
Old 09-11-2011, 09:22 PM
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I did a t-belt job on my 2003 a4 1.8t (AMB). I grew up with a mechanic as a father, and have ripped apart countless vehicles. I dove into doing my t-belt job with no book and no idea of what I was getting myself into. After a few days of research online (before starting the job), I realized it would be a long one. I took a weekend off work and started dismantling the front end. (WHAT A PAIN IN THE A**!) I have a TON of pics, but they're long gone. I successfully did the job without the camshaft lock tool. While I was there, I replaced the O-ring for the water pump and replaced the t-stat. In the process, I did a full coolant flush and replaced coolant. Car ran great afterwards. It's been over 10k miles. I am amazed at how intense of a job that was for what is conceivably just the replacement of a belt. The job took a total of 8-10 hours of work. I took my time and made sure I did things right. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE EXPERIENCE DOING THIS TYPE OF JOB THEN DO NOT ATTEMPT IT. You run the risk of not setting the timing correctly when replacing the belt and hydraulic tensioner and slapping a valve at first start-up - that's a COSTLY trip to a mech shop, for sure. Last I checked a valve job on a car such as ours is upwards of $1500. GO TO A REPUTABLE SHOP and get the timing belt replaced RIGHT the first time. ALSO - get the water pump replaced. It's an extra bit of money, but it will ensure you're forced induction engine runs well into the 100k+ range.

GOOD LUCK and let us know how things turn out.
Old 09-12-2011, 06:45 AM
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Thanks for the feedback because the DIY really makes the job look approachable. Glad to know it's best I leave it to the pros. This car needs constant attention so I'm sure I'll get my chance to work on it again soon enough.


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